Well, I’m getting the parts to do the timing belt/h2O pump/tune-up on my ’89 S4 delivered this week. I can’t wait. Once I get the money back for the H20 core change I’m getting the muffler bypass so that will be a grand total of $1,000 spent in parts.

Now, this is the first time I’m doing anything close to as complicated as a timing belt/water pump; and beyond the procedure online, shop manuals, anyone have any final words of wisdom before I begin? I have to say I’m somewhat fearful about taking this task upon myself.

I just went to Mernards and got a 500W portable light unit to make sure I’m seeing things correctly when I’m performing the job (I’ll be doing this all in my garage). I was thinking, do any of you all take off the hood to make things easier? I’m also changing plugs, cap/rotors, fluids, air/fuel/oil filters, etc.

Time isn’t of the essence, as I have all winter to complete this project. Mostly, I just want to do it right, but you all knew that.

Thanks for your responses.

 

Did you order a flywheel lock tool and belt tension guage?

 

Steve,
Yup. Aftermarket tool and flywheel lock.

 

Steve,
Read & reread all the excellent stuff by Greg Nichols and John Pirtle if you haven't already done so - there's likely more good copy on the TB subject.
There's dozens of 'to dos' that will come up as you progress. The only critical one I'd mention now is to be sure of locking the ring gear at 45 deg . of the compression stroke - prior to getting into the good stuff. Before that ---
If you can get the wiring harness off the electric fans with minimal blood loss (clips are sharp!), and wrestle that unit out past the AC plumbing, the rest is a 'piece of cake" - hope you like cake.

 

Whoops,above note to Tariq: sorry Steve

 

if you see wear on the cam gears replace them, I had wear on mine and found out this does cause the belt to ride forward causing premature failure

 

Omit the 45degree Procedure
. Turning the crank to the 45-degree position is a confusing step to some.. The purpose of the 45-degree setting is for removing, setting, and turning the cam shafts 360 degrees on 32V without damaging the valves if all you’re doing is changing the timing belt, and you’re not turning the cams or the crank with the timing belt removed, there is no need to set the crank at the 45 degree mark.

 

In my case, 5050, my drain plug on the bottom of the radiator snapped off, in my fingers! You might check ahead of time, to be sure yours loosens up nicely.... If not, time before to order another.... Of course, there may be the stiff or snapped off bolts in the H2O pump, as many others have had. So, you might just wait and see what "extras" you may need to order......

Oh yeah, my alternator adjustment bolt turned into a worm-shaped thingie, had to get another one of those as well!

I didn't change my front crank seal. Hadn't seen that in anyone's post, back when I did my change. Don't see it here, yet, either, so I'll post it. Thank goodness mine hasn't started leaking yet!
Others have posted about reading previous posts, good info there, post in the search at the top of the page, you should fine many posts about this job, and lots of good info.

 

Just to keep things in perspective...
Get everything as close as you can and fineline/paintmark camgears(?) and crank with some immoveable part of the engine. I trust nothing! let alone a flywheel lock. You know... a degree here a degree there preety soon it adds up to something serious.
You can never be to paronoid.
So they say.
"Who is they?".
Why do you want to know?

 

Tiny little bearings on the bottom below the crank gear? Did you get those?

Oil pump seals (2)?

Main crankshaft seal?

Anarobic (sp) sealant for the WP?

weak loctite for the waterpump bolts?

New WP/tensioner arm bushing rod cheesehead screw?

New bushings for tensioner arm?

I had an excell doc, but I lost that last year. I could use it now.

 

Ya...you'll need a lot of beer or favorite beverage and god no...leave the hood on so you dont damage it or fuss getting it back on right unless...you really want to.

You'll have fun.

 

My $0.02:

- Be careful when you unplug and re-route the front engine harness from the jump point to get the driver's side belt cover off. The plastic on the connector can get brittle and it's a tight fit.

- Patience with the WP bolts. Application of heat and/or "screwloose" fluid before you start loosening them.

I did not take off my hood. 1) That way you can lower the hood over the work area if you don't intend to do the job in a marathon session. 2) The hood is a PITA to get re-aligned.

It's really not that bad a job if you are not pressed for time. Pirtle's write-up is great. Just be patient. Read the write-ups. Re-read the write-ups. Keep track of all the bolts. Take your time.

 

Remember to hook the sensor wire back up when you put the timing cover back on : )

BTDT

 

I'll be posting pics of my worn cam sprockets and close up of my cam belt so you can see what Lizard means. Keep an eye on my Cam Belt Failure thread too, there's lots of great advice from listers there.

 

Replace all bolts w/new ones!
Do not over torque! Use a Trq wrench!
Use Thread Locker!

My weekend bolt extraction is now going on 4 weeks. Then again, I have been taking my sweet time. It also doesn't help that I have been in lazy mode ...................