Igaffz

Hi guys hope you can help. I've always had an oil leak around the alternator area and assumed it was the sump gasket. About 12 months ago I replaced the timing belt and water pump. When I removed the covers to do the belt there was no indication of a leak from any of the front seals. My leak has now gotten worse and after a good look underneath it seems the oil is running down the bock from the back of the front left hand cam gear housing. My question is, can I cheat and remove that cover and cam gear with out fully removing the belt or do I have to remove everything to gain access? I can't remember how the covers are fitted from memory! She's a Euro 85 S2 manual.

regards
ian

soontobered84

Ian,

Are you sure the leak is not from the oil cooler lines where they connect to the block? It is directly above the alternator.

Mrmerlin

need to ID exactly where the leak is,
this is a 32V engine correct

Wisconsin Joe

He wrote 85 Euro S2. That would likely be a 4.7 16v twin dizzy.

If it's really the cam seals, then unfortunately, you have to take off most of the front of the engine to get to it.

You have to get the belt off to take the cam gear off. You have to take the cam gear off to take the cam housing (cam front) off. That part, and replacing the seals themselves is actually fairly easy. It's just the "getting to it" and (of course) all the WYAIT crap that makes it "fun" (wereally need a 'sarcasm' font).

Igaffz

I'll have another look at the week end, need to sort it as it's dripping on my drive! And yes it's a 4.7. I'll get a picture on Saturday.

If it is the cam gear seal, could I clamp the belt in place, loosen the tension and remove that cam gear without striping half the front of the engine? Just a thought, I'm sure when I familiarise myself with the set up on Saturday it will become clearer!

Mrmerlin

from the added info I am going with your cam tower gasket is leaking,
this involves removal of the camshaft housing and remove the belt,
no easy way to cut corners here.
its a daylong job.
I suggest to use Greg Browns new tower gasket ,
also replace the front radial seal and O rings and doughnut seals ,
and the dizzy base O ring and the dizzy timing belt.
Replace the rear cam tower gaskets with the new silicone seals,
Roger sells all of these parts

That said you need to ID where the oil is coming from,
as guessing could put you into the wrong repair mode,
it could also be the oil cooler line/s as previously suggested.

Wisconsin Joe

No.

The rear cam belt cover has to come off.

To get that off, the crank gear has to come off.

And Stan is right. It could well be the cam tower (16v motors don't have cam covers, the whole thing that looks like a "valve cover" is the cam housing).

Igaffz

Oh god I was hoping I wouldn't have to remove everything off the crank!
obviously I'll double check at the weekend and take a picture.

soontobered84

If it's not leaking from the oil cooler lines, then my money is on the cam tower seals as well.

See MrMerlin's post #6 above.

waynestrutt

Check the power steering lines at the pump and reservoir. Use brake cleaner and clean it all spotless then watch it closely to be sure where it is leakling. Read "https://rennlist.com/forums/928-forum/662782-16v-ob-timing-belt-and-water-pump-procedure-with-pics.html" Chapter 17 outlines the cam seals replacement, if it is indeed the cam seal leaking.

Igaffz

I've had another look at the oil leak today, the oil is running down from behind the left hand toothed cam wheel area, looking up from under the car. I tried to take a pic but it was hard to get a clear photo. I've ordered two shaft sealing seals, might as well do both. Also noticed both cork gaskets are leaking badly at the rear of the cam shafts, I'll do these as well. Looks like I'll be taking a couple of days off this week to get oily!!


ian

dr bob

Guessing by the Euro model and the name that you aren't in the U.S. Still, I recommend that you follow Mrmerlin's guidance on what to fix and how to fix it. Particularly, the cam tower gaskets are finicky at best. It's quite common for folks to have oil leaks after resealing especially when using genuine Porsche or other OEM-quality gaskets. Greg Brown in the U.S. has come up with a much improved gasket package for the 16V cam boxes that makes it possible for mere mortals to have a leak-free result. Roger at 928srus offers all the pieces, and does a lot of shipping out of the U.S. 928 International does too.

Again, follow Mrmerlin's advice: