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Transaxle stuck in 2nd gear... linkage intact. FIXED!

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Old 04-23-2017, 07:29 PM
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Erik N
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Default Transaxle stuck in 2nd gear... linkage intact. FIXED!

After a perfectly executed powerslidden holeshot freeway on-ramp maneuver in 2nd gear, I go to grab 3rd and...

...and nothing. Car is stuck in 2nd, shifter just kinds of flops around. The 928 Motorsports ball cup is intact, the Devek short-shifter is intact, and the rear coupler is intact.

Sean said that it sounds like a shift fork came off? That Kibort had that happen to him once?

Anyone have a link? Thanks, need to get it fixed ASAP before Parade.

Last edited by Erik N; 04-24-2017 at 04:51 PM.
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Old 04-23-2017, 07:33 PM
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shifter ball cup. You can get it re engaged by moving it back and forth and pulling up on it at the same time. The you can sift gears gingerly.

Search ball cup, the fix is actually pretty easy and cheap.
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Old 04-23-2017, 07:40 PM
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Erik N
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Originally Posted by Gretch
shifter ball cup. You can get it re engaged by moving it back and forth and pulling up on it at the same time. The you can sift gears gingerly.

Search ball cup, the fix is actually pretty easy and cheap.
I am shocked, SHOCKED that a mod has not fully read my post!

Oops, sorry, forgot we ain't in OT
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Old 04-23-2017, 07:46 PM
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well you can do the Kibort fix and cut the trans tunnel out to open the top trans cover,
OR drop the transaxle
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Old 04-23-2017, 07:51 PM
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Hoping Sean can get to it before Parade. I am not set up to drop the tranny. Once I get my shop up again I will be, but that's over a year and 2000 miles away.

Sean said that Kibort just reassembled it and it was fine? Anyone have a link?
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Old 04-23-2017, 10:19 PM
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Shifting fork problems are extremely rare....very robust.

Your transmission has split pins holding the shift forks onto the shifting shafts (therefore the shift forks are not adjustable)....not known for falling out or breaking. (Except on 964 and 993 transmissions used in severe duty situations.)

Kibort's transmission had the later model adjustable shift forks with bolts securing them to the shift rails...and they can potentially move, if "Mongo" drives the car.

I've seen the main roll pin that goes through the main shift rod into the internal main selector lever shear on "rebuilt" units. It's a special roll pin and many sources (including PET) show the incorrect split pin in that location.

Any chance the tapered pin that connects the rear coupler to the shifting shaft going inside the transmission fell out? This is somewhat common....and the reason why I always use the 911 pin with the nylon insert instead of the 928 pin.
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Old 04-23-2017, 11:14 PM
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Jadz 928 bumped a car in front of him while driving 84 Euro.
Caused transmission to get stuck in one of the gears.
Cant remember exactly what happened, but basically one of the shafts came past its detent.
Jim Bailey said the same thing can happen when you store one on its end.
We were able to open the cover and tap the shafts into place with one or two tiny pops.
Worked great.
There is a video here somewhere, will try to find.

Ahh, here it is, see post 33 for video

https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...utube-vid.html

Not certain this technique will work for you, yours may have suffered some other fate, it didn't impact anything like this one did.
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Old 04-23-2017, 11:15 PM
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Which part Greg? Thank you!
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Old 04-24-2017, 10:10 AM
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Originally Posted by Erik N
Which part Greg? Thank you!
"Grub screw", I believe. Fits into a hole in the shifter-shaft into the tranny. If it backs out then everything looks right, except the shift-coupler isn't actually moving the shaft.
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Old 04-24-2017, 11:02 AM
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grub screw. they are either ceased in place, or pretty loose on the cars i have seen.
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Old 04-24-2017, 11:09 AM
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OK I will investigate the grub screw. Hoping that is it... the way it "felt" when it came undone I think that could be it. Seems like a simple fix (except for taking the rear end apart to get to it).

Are there 2 grub screws? Is that what the hole that is perpendicular to the screw in the photo is for?
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Old 04-24-2017, 12:49 PM
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Nothing needs to come apart. Plenty of room to reach up there. Getting the rubber boot pulled out of the way (if there is one) is the toughest part of the job.
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Old 04-24-2017, 01:03 PM
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Have you lifted up the shifter boot and checked that the shifter rods forward and to the rear are still firmly located? Best check is to remove the shifter and grab the forward and rear rods with your hands and wiggle them... the rod forward to the shifter ball cup should have no forward and aft play in it, but allow a rotation of about 45 degrees only.
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Old 04-24-2017, 04:33 PM
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UPDATE: it is fixed. It was the pin #3 in the above pic, had fallen out. So the linkage was disconnected at the rear coupler after all. My bad, I "diagnosed" the problem in the dark by feel alone.

The coupler appeard in pretty good shape. So I bought a M12 fine thread bolt, some washers and a nylock nut topped w/ a jam nut at the local ACE HW (great selection of odd stuff there) plus some blue locktite. Snugged it until I could just turn the bolt by hand, so not too tight to accomodate the factory "slop" in the system. Also, the bolt itself had just the right amount of unthreaded shank to connect everything nicely. I lucked out on that

Carl- your shift cup is intact as far as I can tell, and has been a great addition to the car. It was a tough install for me (2005?), even w/ the engine out and me sitting in the compartment. But, with a little white grease and a bunch of locktite it is still a great improvement. Thanks for that.

Sorry if I have wasted people's time on a simple problem. My bad...
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Last edited by Erik N; 04-24-2017 at 04:57 PM.
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Old 04-24-2017, 05:05 PM
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I've had that pin come out on my race car. That's what provoked us to develop a better answer. Note the castellated nut and cotter pin on our finished part. We also install new and different plastic bushings within to take the slop out.

The stock pin is just knurled and pressed in place. As you have just found out, sometimes they work loose and jump on to the highway.

For those that are interested in more information about this part, here is a link:
https://928motorsports.com/parts/rea...r_coupling.php
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