New To Me Rough Idle When Cold.
#1
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
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Guys,
I know, another rough idle thread... I just want to present a little here before I get into it tomorrow.
The scenario - awoke the car from winter sleep 3 days ago. Started right up, but ran as if it were missing and would idle down to stall. When I say ran as if it were missing, I mean the engine would shake and exhaust smelt very rich. Never had this before on first starts after winter. I then kept the idle at about 1000 till she warmed up and it did improve but not resolve. 'Double footed' it until on the highway where she ran like a charm for about 80-100 miles. When on streets again she ran normally.
It doesn't feel like the ISV or failed FPR that I have had in the past to fault the idle. Was running great before hibernation. Not driven much last year with only about 4K miles put on. Just about the same for the year before. 2 years ago new Berus and plugs and new ISV with general clean up of things when I popped the top. New CPS 3 years ago. Hardly any miles on her in last 2 years for various reasons. When I had an idle issue 2 years ago the Temp II had normal resistance values.
The engine shaking and richness of the exhaust leads me to believe another fault is at play. I plan on spending time on it tomorrow, so sorry I have no other useful data to present.
Just wanted to hear some considerations.
Thanks in Advance,
Craig
Add: new fuel pump, filter, and check valve before the winter sleep.
I know, another rough idle thread... I just want to present a little here before I get into it tomorrow.
The scenario - awoke the car from winter sleep 3 days ago. Started right up, but ran as if it were missing and would idle down to stall. When I say ran as if it were missing, I mean the engine would shake and exhaust smelt very rich. Never had this before on first starts after winter. I then kept the idle at about 1000 till she warmed up and it did improve but not resolve. 'Double footed' it until on the highway where she ran like a charm for about 80-100 miles. When on streets again she ran normally.
It doesn't feel like the ISV or failed FPR that I have had in the past to fault the idle. Was running great before hibernation. Not driven much last year with only about 4K miles put on. Just about the same for the year before. 2 years ago new Berus and plugs and new ISV with general clean up of things when I popped the top. New CPS 3 years ago. Hardly any miles on her in last 2 years for various reasons. When I had an idle issue 2 years ago the Temp II had normal resistance values.
The engine shaking and richness of the exhaust leads me to believe another fault is at play. I plan on spending time on it tomorrow, so sorry I have no other useful data to present.
Just wanted to hear some considerations.
Thanks in Advance,
Craig
Add: new fuel pump, filter, and check valve before the winter sleep.
#2
Pro
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Craig
Had the same problem yesterday. We have had a lot of rain lately, very damp. I pulled the fuse panel and wiggled all the relays and fuses. as soon as I hit relay XXV, engine smoothed right out.
running great today with no problems. I think damp conditions cause some of these electrical problems. thoughts?
Had the same problem yesterday. We have had a lot of rain lately, very damp. I pulled the fuse panel and wiggled all the relays and fuses. as soon as I hit relay XXV, engine smoothed right out.
running great today with no problems. I think damp conditions cause some of these electrical problems. thoughts?
#3
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
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Car had been off the ground, covered, and in the garage all winter. Was dry as a bone. My concern is that the engine is running 'asymmetrically', that is shaking. Has never done that before. The usual culprits cause idle failure but not with the 'asymmetry'. Also, odd how it resolved after some miles on it only to return on the next cold starts.
Yes, any water around the CE panel can wreak havoc.
Yes, any water around the CE panel can wreak havoc.
#5
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
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No rodentia.
Never had a problem with a bitterly cold Northern Maine hibernation and a full tank of 93 octane and marine Stabil on spring startup.
#6
Nordschleife Master
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I've never done this before, so how does one check for current at the injector harnesses ? Just want to try to get going until I replace my unhealthy harnesses.
My dampeners and regulator have NO smell of gas in the vac line.
Strong smell of gas in exhaust and in area of passenger side valve cover. Greg's lines with no leaks anywhere.
My dampeners and regulator have NO smell of gas in the vac line.
Strong smell of gas in exhaust and in area of passenger side valve cover. Greg's lines with no leaks anywhere.
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#9
Team Owner
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you can put a long screwdriver onto each injector while its running to check to see if the injector is working.
First thing I would do would be swapping the coil wires out one at a time,
make sure each coil wire is not touching anything in its run.
First thing I would do would be swapping the coil wires out one at a time,
make sure each coil wire is not touching anything in its run.
#11
Team Owner
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oil on a plug means time for new cam cover gaskets and fresh powdercoat
#13
Nordschleife Master
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Stan, you are referring to just the two from the coil to the bottom of the distributor ?
#14
Rennlist Member
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Like Stan said, use a long screw driver and place the handle next to your ear or get a Mechanics stethoscope from HF, one of your injectors may be stuck.
The oil on plug # 2, do you mean that you pulled the plugs and it's is the only one that has oil on it and others look like they are firing?
Dave
The oil on plug # 2, do you mean that you pulled the plugs and it's is the only one that has oil on it and others look like they are firing?
Dave
#15
Rennlist Member
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I think that is what Stan is suggesting, you may have 4 that are not firing with good spark, as a single plug not working is hard to detect.
Temp gun, and go down each bank should tell if the same one w/ oil is not firing, if that oil is in the spark plug cavity then that one could be shorted out clean it all out and see if the issue goes away.
Temp gun, and go down each bank should tell if the same one w/ oil is not firing, if that oil is in the spark plug cavity then that one could be shorted out clean it all out and see if the issue goes away.