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I really like this alternator and tensioner set you are using! Late model GM's (Holden?) with the LS3 use a similar system on the A/C on the opposite side, as you have here. I suspect you have considered something like that over there, will you use the Porsche style V belt for the A/C or move to a ribbed belt like the alternator?
Can you (will you) post the part number for the alternator?
Here's some shots of the alternator. I can't find a number on it. If there is one, it must be under the plastic covering.
It was described to me as a 'new Mercedes' alternator?
I'm going to use the stock cylinder bore with 968 104mm pistons.
Greg Brown has machined the crowns to fit my '86 heads @ 10.4:1 compression.
Good option, I just bored a block to 104 mm and I'm also using genuine Porsche 2 valve pistons and the Goetze rings. I'm also doing another 104 mm in Nicasil, that has been a long process but I think we are winning, we'll know after the honing. I wanted to go finer on the bore finish, we're using 600 grade diamond stones, 800 is available but the shop doesn't have them and the stones are $2,300, so 600 will need to do.
Here's some shots of the alternator. I can't find a number on it. If there is one, it must be under the plastic covering.
It was described to me as a 'new Mercedes' alternator?
Are you sure it's not a computer controlled alternator?
finished the crankshaft pulley [mark 3].
The new AC compressor as recommended by my AC service shop has 2 V belts and a max rpm of 6k. This meant reducing the drive pulley and adding a new one.
Now to finish the AC Pump mount and belt tensioner.
Got the gold passivated zinc back and oh boy what a difference.
Wow! You have been busy! I am envious! couple questions about your mounting here. Your pulley looks spectacular, but appears that you have moved the alternator pulley forward. Does that mean you have reworked your alternator mounting bracket? Follow on, is there a reason not to have moved the A/C forward instead (spacing issues for example)? Second follow on, what percentage have you reduced the drive on the a/c pulleys?
Wow! Your pulley looks spectacular, but appears that you have moved the alternator pulley forward. Does that mean you have reworked your alternator mounting bracket? Follow on, is there a reason not to have moved the A/C forward instead (spacing issues for example)? Second follow on, what percentage have you reduced the drive on the a/c pulleys?
The alternator has been moved up and in, pretty much as the early ones were. The AC has also been moved up and in. I want to give more chassis clearance than original.
Because I won't have the air pump or the power steering pump, I could shorten the crank pulley. Because the new AC pump has a max RPM of 6000 and a 125mm pulley and my red line will be 6500, (6000/6500*125=115). So the driving pulley had to be 0.923 smaller than the driven.
Yes I remade the alternator pulley to include an auto belt tensioner.
I wish now that I had reduced the RPM of the alternator as well, because it certainly doesn't need to do the revs that the original does.
I've been 'off duty' for 3 months after a complete shoulder replacement. Just getting back into it.
eventually finished the mount and belt adjuster for the new A/C compressor.
Now just a few steps to complete the towbar. Then the fuel tank can go back in.
Also, I increased the alternator clutch pulley size to slow it down. Can't see why I need it to spin @ 16,200 rpm [135/50x6000], when the manufacturer claims it will produce its max output of 250 amps at 1800 rpm. So now it's 135/60x6000=13500. Would have liked it even slower.
07-20-2017, 01:21 AM
Alternator part #
