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Clutch Slave question

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Old 03-18-2017, 06:33 PM   #1
WyattsRide
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Default Clutch Slave question

Removed the Clutch Slave by pulling the bell housing away from the rod. So that the rod and housing were separated. Then removing the rod from where it seats into the Operating arm. Now trying to reverse that method when reinstalling, but the rod wont "plunger" back into the bell housing. It's like the clutch pedal is compressed, but it's not.

I have installed and reinstalled the Clutch Slave and Fly Wheel Lock a few times during my TB/WP replacement and haven't run into this. The other times though, I wasn't sure that I was positioning the rod against the Operating arm correctly. But, I know I was able to insert the rod into the housing farther than this.

What's my problem?

Clutch operating arm


Rod not plungering into housing


Thanks for any help or advice.
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Old 03-18-2017, 06:46 PM   #2
Crumpler
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Hey Rick, I think this happened to me once. If you haven't, try it with the cap off the resi. up top. It should be easier to reduce it that way, kind of like when pushing the brake caliper pistons back in. You will want a towel to catch the fluid that you push out the top.

Regards, Dave.
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Old 03-18-2017, 06:53 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Crumpler View Post
Hey Rick, I think this happened to me once. If you haven't, try it with the cap off the resi. up top. It should be easier to reduce it that way, kind of like when pushing the brake caliper pistons back in. You will want a towel to catch the fluid that you push out the top.

Regards, Dave.
Tried that Dave. The Reservoir cap is off.

Thanks though.
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Old 03-18-2017, 07:01 PM   #4
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i am not too clear on this....are you saying you cannot get the piston to move into the slave ?
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Old 03-18-2017, 07:05 PM   #5
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i am not too clear on this....are you saying you cannot get the piston to move into the slave ?
Yes.
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Old 03-18-2017, 07:11 PM   #6
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you could try to open the bleeder but maybe the piston is cocked at the end. try remove the rubber boot and push the piston with your thumbs to get it to move or a new slave
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Old 03-18-2017, 07:25 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by WyattsRide View Post
Tried that Dave. The Reservoir cap is off.

Thanks though.
Damn! I thought I was going to make you very happy.

Tanker has a valid point, but as soon as you touch that bleed screw you will likely have air in there and have to deal with that too.
I have a spare slave out in the garage, I will go look at the mechanics of it. Hopefully somebody else will solve it before I get back.
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Old 03-18-2017, 08:11 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by extanker View Post
you could try to open the bleeder but maybe the piston is cocked at the end. try remove the rubber boot and push the piston with your thumbs to get it to move or a new slave
I'll have to look at that tomorrow. Thanks for the suggestion.

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Damn! I thought I was going to make you very happy.

Tanker has a valid point, but as soon as you touch that bleed screw you will likely have air in there and have to deal with that too.
I have a spare slave out in the garage, I will go look at the mechanics of it. Hopefully somebody else will solve it before I get back.
I may already have to deal with air the line. When I first removed the CS I loosened the hard line nut to move it a little to get clearance. Some fluid leaked out then.

Let me know what you find out Dave.

BTW, I do have a brand new clutch slave. But this was working fine before, so I hope I don't have to use the new one just yet. My new clutch slave plungers in out beautifully.
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Old 03-18-2017, 09:11 PM   #9
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So the old slave has been sitting in a Tupperware box for three years, with the piston fully extended in the slave. So that makes it a valid control study I guess.

It would not give and reduce back in by hand. It took me taking off the boot, loading the rod into the piston cup and pushing down on the slave (rod on the bench surface) with force to get it to move. I want to say it was still functional when I took it off the car, but it may have corroded since then.

I guess that's the good news, there are very few moving parts.
I would bet that the chamber gets slightly smaller toward the exit and full extension of the piston is a pretty tight fit. I bet Stan will clear the whole thing up in five min.

I hate to be that guy that said just push it harder, but if you have a new unit, there may not be a lot to loose on this one.
Let us know what you find tomorrow, with you in spirit.
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Old 03-19-2017, 03:27 AM   #10
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when you remove the slave, the rod will push out all the way. When you reinstall, line up the rod into the detent of the throwout arm, then push the back of the slave body with your hand to push the rod back into the slave (and the fluid back up into the master) until you can get it close enough to start threading in the two bolts.

done this many times including this evening.
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Old 03-19-2017, 12:25 PM   #11
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if the slave can not be compressed then the pedal pushrod may be too far extended,
this makes the piston block the return flow,
thus the slave will seem to be locked.
It could be as simple as a pedal that has been pushed slightly
or the pushrod it just too tight
loosen the pushrod locknut and screw the pushrod away from the MC.

NOTE if the flex hose has been crimped or kinked then it could have been pinched shut , this could restrict flow.

NOTE it would best to replace the short hardline and flex hose with the Greg Brown longer flex hose,
this removes the line from over the starter and makes bleeding easier
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Old 03-19-2017, 09:16 PM   #12
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Rick, Stan nailed it I think.

So Stan, if the pedal was pushed in, do you manually reach in under the pedal and pull out the pushrod? How do you do this?
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Old 03-19-2017, 11:23 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by granprixweiss928 View Post
when you remove the slave, the rod will push out all the way. When you reinstall, line up the rod into the detent of the throwout arm, then push the back of the slave body with your hand to push the rod back into the slave (and the fluid back up into the master) until you can get it close enough to start threading in the two bolts.

done this many times including this evening.
I will give this a try first as soon as I can this week. I couldn't get to it today.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mrmerlin View Post
if the slave can not be compressed then the pedal pushrod may be too far extended,
this makes the piston block the return flow,
thus the slave will seem to be locked.
It could be as simple as a pedal that has been pushed slightly
or the pushrod it just too tight
loosen the pushrod locknut and screw the pushrod away from the MC.
I will look into this next Stan. I did depress the pedal before this last time I removed the clutch slave. I was checking the clutch because I thought I may have got air in the line when I loosened the fluid line nut on top of the slave when I first removed it to install the fly wheel lock. The pedal just dropped to the floor and I moved it back up in position by hand.
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Old 03-20-2017, 10:07 AM   #14
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under the dash at the clutch MC loosen the pushrod locknut and screw the pushrod into the clevis a turn,
this should free the MC piston to return to its seated position
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Old 03-20-2017, 10:53 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mrmerlin View Post
under the dash at the clutch MC loosen the pushrod locknut and screw the pushrod into the clevis a turn,
this should free the MC piston to return to its seated position
Thanks for the clarification Stan.

And Thanks for everyone's help. I'm making a lot of mistakes.......I mean, learning a lot... on this TP/WP adventure........
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