kiwiokie

Thanks Hoi!!!! I will give that a try.

Majestic Moose

Wow that is surprising, next time try having a helper hit the end of the breaker bar over the socket with a hammer while you have it under as much torque as you can pull. If that doesn't free it I don't know what will. Be sure to protect your fender with layers of blankets and cardboard for when all that potential energy releases.


EDIT: forget the above, I remembered my favorite trick. Place your breaker bar handle onto a jack and pump up until the bolt loosens. This has never failed me yet and takes hardly any effort.

kiwiokie

Finally got the crank pulley bolt out. Ended up cutting some aluminum flashing to the size of the fan belt pulley and duct taped it to the pulley forming a cup. I mixed 50:50 ATF and acetone and filled the pulley up which submerged the bolt. Fortunately the duct tape held for a day which was long enough for it to have an effect. Was still freaking tight to remove!

kiwiokie

Some previous owner artistry...

Wisconsin Joe

Ok, you have a slightly different definition of the word 'artistry' than I do.

kiwiokie

Looking almost clean! AC compressor still a pit of primeval slime. Need to discharge system first. Previous owner said AC never worked so was hoping it had no freon but no such luck.

kiwiokie

Can anyone help ID what goes here? This is underneath the crank end. Whatever was there is long gone. Guide rail perhaps? Hard to tell from the PET diagram.

hlee96

Rubber/plastic belt guide in earlier cars. '83 and after would have the rollers. I will try to find a pic.
#19 on this pic

kiwiokie

Got it. Thanks Hoi. Thought that might be it but it is kind of floating in no-mans land looking like it lines up underneath the tensioner roller.

kiwiokie

Had a day of incredible wrenching karma last week and got all waterpump bolts out without any fuss at all. Could not have been more surprised. Waterbridge Allen socket bolts are another story. Lots of flakey scaling inside the waterpump.

Wisconsin Joe

Someone was using some pretty "hard" water in that radiator.

kiwiokie

Agreed. When I drained the block and radiator it looked to be 98% water and likely tap water rather than distilled. I need to look for one of those flush products to cycle through once I get the engine all back together.

kiwiokie

Got my COA. VanD was right about cloth inserts but pinstripe rather than pasha. Leatherette but sure looks and feels like leather to me!

docmirror

The problem with descaling agents is that it'll take the scale off the head gasket area, and also the head where it's been etched. Might wind up with serious water leaks and enough recession of the alum that you'll need to have welding done to restore material at the head/block interface. I would just go back with good water and approved coolant, and let it work like it should. Some point you may have to deal with a water leak anyway, might as well let it last as long as you can. On your trip home you had no overheat issues. Would suggest a good clean rad to maximize cooling capacity.

Glad you got the COA and it's mostly what you want. Gonna be a great example when you're done. Keep on keepin on.

kiwiokie

Thanks for the advice. I will back flush the radiator and heater core with a hose and leave it at that.