kiwiokie

Not familiar with this component in the coolant line but definitely the blue oval label looks dubious as does the tight curves that have collapsed the hoses. Vacuum line has been plugged. Can anyone educate me on this?

kiwiokie

Was not planning on touching the coolant lines but they are pretty corroded so will likely do while I have it all apart.

kiwiokie

And of course no insert left on clutch release lever.

kiwiokie

Keeping in the theme of there always being one fastener that refuses to budge - fuel line to WUR this time.

kiwiokie

New fuel lines are ordered. Looks like they will be easier to get at with the coolant lines removed? Might end up doing timing belt and water pump now rather than later. Crazy how hard rubber hoses can get. The breather hose shattered like Bakelite. Interesting mismatch of wrong hose types for the purpose and loose fitting vacuum hoses as they did not use metric hoses and no clamps. Surprised it ran so well! Checked front suspension and it still has the original style ball joints. Adding that to the growing list!

SwedeInSiam

Looks like it's connected to the air pump, not coolant line.

kiwiokie

Thanks, found it on PET #108, diverter valve. That makes it easier to remove and clean. Need to trace the vacuum line that operates the valve that has been cut and plugged.

kiwiokie

Things are looking a lot cleaner! The rubber bushings under the CIS manifold had all separated so will have to try to remove with a left handed drill bit and extractor unless anyone has a better suggestion?

kiwiokie

Timing belt covers all off now. Could not get LHS off without moving the power steering pump. Center cover is split into two pieces and the backing is split and damaged. No boot on tensioner. Lots of belt hairs inside the covers. Glad I decided to do this.

I think I will just remove the air pump and associated hosing. No inspection in OK. Will keep the bits in case a future caretaker wants to install them.

kiwiokie

So far I have three bolts that sheared off - one Allen bolt on the WUR and two bolts on the coolant connections at the rear of the heads, even after soaking twice a day for a week with Kroil and using delicate pulses with my not very powerful impact. Dreading starting on the water pump bolts!

kiwiokie

Despite the sad state of the tensioner both cams lines up perfectly at TDC! Lots of cleaning ahead of me today....

kiwiokie

Crank pulley bolt is making a mule seem perfectly cooperative. Could not get it to budge with a 2ft breaker bar. Removed the radiator so I could get the impact in there. Did not budge. Tapped with a hammer, heated with a MAP, then impact again. Did not budge. Anyone have a different approach?

Majestic Moose

Slip a 4ft pipe over the handle of your breaker bar for extra leverage. When all else fails, you may wedge your breaker bar against the ground and let the starter do the work. Double check that this action will loosen the bolt and not tighten!

hlee96

For the rubber bushings that had sheared off underneath the air plenum, I had used a chisel and a hammer to slowly "rotate" the bushings counterclockwise to loosen them up then a pair of tooth pliers to "unscrew" them. I think I read it somewhere here that Greg Brown has used this method and it worked for me. Good luck.
-Hoi

kiwiokie

Thanks Alex. Went to Home Depot and bought a 5ft 3/4inch galvanized pipe and tried that out on the breaker bar - hung on it until I thought the breaker bar would bend but the bolt did not move. I will try more Kroil each day this week and maybe will get lucky in a few days.