Hello Gentlemen,

The water neck outlet at the right side cylinder head for the heater valve on my 928 has come apart. The nipple has pulled out of the aluminum casting.

Based upon this thread,

https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...-question.html

I contacted Tom at 928 Intl, trying to find a water outlet number 928 104 713 2R. No luck. He sent me a 928 104 713 0R, which is all they had. Which is the same thing I have.

So, here is my question: Which do I do? Reassemble the water outlet that already came apart with JB Weld? Reinforce the water outlet that is still complete with JB Weld?




Left one could come apart down the road. Right one has already come apart.





No migration of the nipple in the casting...yet.





Could reinforce with JB Weld at this seam of the nipple and the casting.





Could clean this up and reinstall the nipple with JB Weld.





No damage, other than it came apart.



Thanks!

 

Could that be soldered like for copper pipe?

I would go with the JB Weld if I didn't have a spare to practice on.

 

I was just thinking the same, solder should work well on that. Heat up the small pipe, then drop it and flow in the solder.

 

Soldering steel to aluminum is easier said than done, especially if you want it to be leak-free. Most readily available solders and fluxes are not suitable. I would opt for a two-part epoxy like JB Weld.

Mike

 

I think solder would work well but you have some tricks to it, just like in welding aluminum. Must remove the surface oxides.

Read through American Welding Society write up on soldering aluminium.

https://app.aws.org/wj/2004/02/046/

 

JB Weld that sucker too!

 

You might try RichVM at Garage 928 in Atlanta, he has several parts cars and might have the solid version.

 

To be honest, I don't know.



I had thought the nipple was steel, however, looking at both of them, I'm not sure. Tonight at work, I will hit the nipple with a magnet and see what happens.
If the nipple is aluminum, that would open up being TIG'd by my machinist...



Ohh...good point. I might want to keep this simple.



Thank you for that link!




Always a possibility!

 

The suggestion of 2 part epoxy is a good one.There is a Gorilla glue two part that might work also.

 

Wondering about the heat cycling on the epoxy. No doubt it'll hold, but how long.

 

Is nothing sacred? If you can't believe in JB Weld, what can you believe in?

Clean both parts up, JB Weld them together and throw your intact outlet in the glove compartment.

 

Standard 2 part JB Weld is good to over +500F so it should easily withstand the environment of the part. Heck, Dr. Brown decided it had all the right properties to use as the epoxy for his "block drilled by the WP impeller" spacer fix. Go with God and sin no more......

Mike

 

Try Roger at 928sRUs. I got a new one-piece part from him a few weeks ago -- the left part below -- and replaced it (per the other thread). I had also checked with 928 international and they only had the two-piece in stock.





I took my failed 2-piece part, cleaned it up and JB Welded it together just for the hell of it. I used a generous amount of JB Weld and twisted the parts together when I assembled them, much like you would do when joining PVC pipe. I ended up with a nice fillet of JB Weld at the outer seam. I think this actually turned out better than the factory part -- they didn't use nearly that much adhesive. It looks pretty sturdy now, but have no intentions of ever using this 'fixed' 2-piece part. I'll stick with the 1-piece.


For the record both the cast base and the nipple are aluminum. They are non-magnetic (I checked), and the nipple does not appear to be (non-magnetic) stainless. At least the thermal coefficient of expansion of the two parts is the same in that case. It also looks like there is clearance between the two pieces -- it's not an interference fit. That means that the only thing holding the two parts together from the factory is the adhesive -- there is no other mechanical retention. In my opinion that's just not a good design, to put it kindly. I'd stick with the one-piece be done with this problem -- forever.

 

This-^

Send the part back to 928 International for a refund (get RMA first) and then if Tom won't order the correct newer part then call Jeannie or Roger and they will. I got one of those in a week or so ago.

 

Why use a glued together part when the one piece is available and will not fail in the middle of nowhere. This was not a good decision at Porsche, but probably (maybe) a lower cost part. Bean counters won at that design review!
Similar issue with the overflow connector on the radiator. It is plastic and will fail.
Dave