rear main seal etc
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1st Gear
Joined: Oct 2003
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From: tucson
rear main seal etc
78 928 AT w/ shot rear main seal, engine basically good but could use some attention :: considering pulling engine to do rear main seal replacement and other r+r items. need tips, recommendations, things to check and look for, procedures, tools required, resources, best manuals, do's and don'ts, etc.
Three Wheelin'
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Do a search on this list for the rear main seal.......I believe someone just cracked the case for doing the rear seal with the engine in the car, but I believe it was a 5 speed.......can't say for sure on an A/T. Then again removing the engine to do some other maintenance is always a good idea.
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From: Fort Worth, TX
Go here http://www.nichols.nu/tips.htm and read everything. Then you will be ready to face the world Grasshopper.
Nordschleife Master
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From: Minneapolis
The rear main can be done in the car. Just a "regular" seal (metal cup with rubber center) that can be pushed in. No bearing dropping. No block cracking. Do need to get the flywheel off.
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From: St. John's, NF, Canada
I think it advisable to get a copy of the 928 Workshop Manuals before attempting anything like the rear seal R&R. Check the archives and recent posts for info on obtaining these. Jim Morehouse can fix you up, I am sure.
As others have noted. Greg Nichols site has lots of specific BTDT info on this and other topics...and the Rennlist archive have considerable "color commentary" info on these procedures as well.
If you do pull the engine for the rear seal, consider replacing all the seals (front, cam, oil pump, etc) at the same time. Advisable to consider the timing belt/waterpump as well, as you will have done 50% of the work getting the motor out. I believe the cam tower seals are the only ones that are next-to-impossible-to do while the engine is in the car. Everything else is doable insitu, but engine out makes things much easier.
If you do pull the engine, you might want to consider pulling the torque tube at the same time and rebuilding it. Very easy to do if you are in that deep.
Regards,
SteveCo in St. John's
As others have noted. Greg Nichols site has lots of specific BTDT info on this and other topics...and the Rennlist archive have considerable "color commentary" info on these procedures as well.
If you do pull the engine for the rear seal, consider replacing all the seals (front, cam, oil pump, etc) at the same time. Advisable to consider the timing belt/waterpump as well, as you will have done 50% of the work getting the motor out. I believe the cam tower seals are the only ones that are next-to-impossible-to do while the engine is in the car. Everything else is doable insitu, but engine out makes things much easier.
If you do pull the engine, you might want to consider pulling the torque tube at the same time and rebuilding it. Very easy to do if you are in that deep.
Regards,
SteveCo in St. John's
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From: Ventura California, where the girls are so fine.
It all depends on how much money you want to toss at it right now. If you want to get by for under 20 bucks, then just do the rear main seal. That was the first thing I had to do after buying my 79 5spd. Again it is a 5spd so maybe it was easier than doing the auto. but I think I have heard of people doing the auto with motor and tranny in the car.
Believe me after fixing that leak more will develope other places. If you had the bucks to buy a complete seal kit, pulling the motor would be the best route. If you do that pull the spider and replace all vacuum lines. That is a very cheap fix to a lot of running problems.
Again, its really about how much money you have to toss at the project. The ideal would be to just pull it, replace all the seals, TB, water pump etc..
Believe me after fixing that leak more will develope other places. If you had the bucks to buy a complete seal kit, pulling the motor would be the best route. If you do that pull the spider and replace all vacuum lines. That is a very cheap fix to a lot of running problems.
Again, its really about how much money you have to toss at the project. The ideal would be to just pull it, replace all the seals, TB, water pump etc..
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Nordschleife Master
Joined: Jul 2003
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From: Minneapolis
Originally posted by BarryW
Bill Ball recently proved that it is possible to replace the rear main seal in an automatic without removing the tranny or the motor.
Bill Ball recently proved that it is possible to replace the rear main seal in an automatic without removing the tranny or the motor.
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From: Minneapolis