Fuel Distributor bits
#1
Fuel Distributor bits
greetings
Cleaning up and refitting the intake and fuel distribution system, 79 K-jet.
inside of four of the 8 openings on the top of the fuel distributor, there were small strainers within. I don't see them on the PET parts diagram, are they necessary?
james
Cleaning up and refitting the intake and fuel distribution system, 79 K-jet.
inside of four of the 8 openings on the top of the fuel distributor, there were small strainers within. I don't see them on the PET parts diagram, are they necessary?
james
#2
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From: Rep of Texas, N NM, Rockies, SoCal
I've tried sourcing those little filters several times with no success. I just leave them out when I put it back together. They tend to gum up anyway.
#3
I too have scoured the web trying to find them and the larger ones in the feed line. I did find similar filter screens by searching "banjo bolt filter" but never researched beyond that.
#5
Try this guy - he can supply most K-jet parts - O rings etc.
http://www.ferrari400parts.com/
I you fit them keep using the car, with good clean gas, as the screens clog. I found best way to clean them is to remove and burn off the debris - either condensed additives, or lint.
jp 83 Euro S AT 57k
http://www.ferrari400parts.com/
I you fit them keep using the car, with good clean gas, as the screens clog. I found best way to clean them is to remove and burn off the debris - either condensed additives, or lint.
jp 83 Euro S AT 57k
#6
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The screens are either a blessing or a curse, depending on the moment. They are brass, and seem to corrode when left dry, or if there's much water in the fuel they bathe in while the car is parked/stored. Ethanol fuels don't help. In service, they do seem to grab on to every little bit of crud, slime, varnish, plus whatever fragments of worn injection system parts break free upstream. Do you take out a filter because it seems to plug up all the time? And if so, the junk that used to plug the screens continues to the next narrow spot or moving part and fouls that instead.
More than a few CIS victims end up replacing ALL the rubber pieces in the whole system, plus new fuel filter, then clean and rebuild the metering unit and the WUR, flush everything in between, installing new brass screens, and calling it good after getting the pressures correct and the tailpipe CO correct.
CIS cars love to be driven regularly. Good fuel and additives keep everything lubricated and healthy. Park them for a while, especially with untreated fuel, and little "problems" start to show up. At first, you tweak the paddle screw some to get idle CO correct. But the car doesn't perform as well, So more blind adjustments until you get to some compromise setting that masks the true problem. Way many CIS cars are driven in this condition. When you do finally get the system clean and balanced, it's suddenly like a new car again!
More than a few CIS victims end up replacing ALL the rubber pieces in the whole system, plus new fuel filter, then clean and rebuild the metering unit and the WUR, flush everything in between, installing new brass screens, and calling it good after getting the pressures correct and the tailpipe CO correct.
CIS cars love to be driven regularly. Good fuel and additives keep everything lubricated and healthy. Park them for a while, especially with untreated fuel, and little "problems" start to show up. At first, you tweak the paddle screw some to get idle CO correct. But the car doesn't perform as well, So more blind adjustments until you get to some compromise setting that masks the true problem. Way many CIS cars are driven in this condition. When you do finally get the system clean and balanced, it's suddenly like a new car again!
#7
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From: Rep of Texas, N NM, Rockies, SoCal
Pretty much everything you need to know avail here:
http://www.ferrari400parts.com/kjetdownload.php
Reference info on type, model, and cross ref here:
http://www.ferrari400parts.com/downloadpage.php
Since this is hosted in the NL, it's kind of kept on the downlow for documentation that is clearly in most cases breaking the publishers copyright, so don't make a big deal about it. My method is to go there for a visit and download and save what you need ONE TIME so that it doesn't get counted much on hit counters where it will begin to get a high score in search profiles. So, once you are on the site, go to the various sections you need across the top menu bar, download and save to your local machine, then leave after your one visit please.
http://www.ferrari400parts.com/kjetdownload.php
Reference info on type, model, and cross ref here:
http://www.ferrari400parts.com/downloadpage.php
Since this is hosted in the NL, it's kind of kept on the downlow for documentation that is clearly in most cases breaking the publishers copyright, so don't make a big deal about it. My method is to go there for a visit and download and save what you need ONE TIME so that it doesn't get counted much on hit counters where it will begin to get a high score in search profiles. So, once you are on the site, go to the various sections you need across the top menu bar, download and save to your local machine, then leave after your one visit please.
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#9
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My history is that the "just in case" case shows up with a system problem related to the crud or slime that went through.
Fast-forward to today: it's easy enough to find stainless steel screen these days. Wouldn't seem a huge challenge to hand-form some of that over a blunt dowel, and dump the corroding brass screens forever.
Fast-forward to today: it's easy enough to find stainless steel screen these days. Wouldn't seem a huge challenge to hand-form some of that over a blunt dowel, and dump the corroding brass screens forever.
#10
Here's another source of K-jet parts. He rebuilt my WUR, too.
https://www.deloreanautoparts.com/de...injection.html
https://www.deloreanautoparts.com/de...injection.html
#11
Salvox produces and sells repair kits for Bosch fuel distributors. My car has a fuel distributor # 0438100027 so it will need this kit:
http://salvox.com/products.php?43
But the instructions tell about the need for recalibration. This is what the instruction says:
Tearing it all apart & disturbing all the factory settings is not a good idea unless you have expensive Bosch re calibrating equipment,
The most important thing is not to mess with the factory preset misture screws on the individual ports.
So the parts are avialble but once you have the thing apart you'll have to recalibrate?
Is the cleaning and replacing O-rings and diaphragms within the reach of the DIY car mechanic?
http://salvox.com/products.php?43
But the instructions tell about the need for recalibration. This is what the instruction says:
Tearing it all apart & disturbing all the factory settings is not a good idea unless you have expensive Bosch re calibrating equipment,
The most important thing is not to mess with the factory preset misture screws on the individual ports.
So the parts are avialble but once you have the thing apart you'll have to recalibrate?
Is the cleaning and replacing O-rings and diaphragms within the reach of the DIY car mechanic?
#14
Find a screw about the right size, into top of them, once screwed in a few turns work it a bit to make sure it isn’t increasing clamping outward of filter, and lever upward out with a long screwdriver using a thick piece of hide to protect the fulcrum. Don’t think it could be done installed.
#15
Years ago I saw on ebay a 'screen removal tool for CIS' going crazy cheap , so I bought it. It looks like a ~ 1/4" dia piece of tool steel with a couple of sharp edges on the front face, as though its meant to dig into the screen and drag it out? Could post a pick if interested.
jp 83 Euro S AT 57k
jp 83 Euro S AT 57k