tybouff

I found an '87 928 s4 in beautiful shape inside and out for only $7,500. She starts right up and the engine idles nicely but when you put her in gear the car stalls… its an automatic. Could this be remedied by a simple transmission fluid flush? Would you buy the car for around $7k and risk having to do a time consuming/expensive repair? As always thanks for any and all advice. Best regards

BC

What if you put it into neutral?

A new Trans rebuild is about 4500. Are the miles and condition good for a value of 12-13 all in?

hlee96

Is this the car in the northeast? Philly metro area?

giddyupp

If you decide to pass - I would love to get the contact info

GT6ixer

As a lot of folks around here will tell you, it's easier and less expensive to get the mechanicals correct than it is to do body work, paint, and interior. So if it is in as good as condition as you say and it is the color combo that you truly like, I'd say go for it.

crushingday

could this issue be because of the dredded flex plate and torque berring issue? is so that could be very expensive fix

ammonman

TBF usually shows up as running and driving fine when cold but engine stall once fully warmed and under driving load.

Does the car immediately die when put in to gear or does idle speed drop until the engine dies?

Mike

hlee96

If the car is in Cali, no questions. Buy it, ship it to Greg, and be done with it.

However, the car is very nice from the few photos on the ad, no interior pics. GTS mirrors with evidence of working odometer. Cup I (OEM or aftermarket) wheels.

Since it starts and idles nicely, but stalls in gear, can it be something with the converter?
New transmission from GB (euro gearing)?

dr bob

Consider that the idle speed is controlled by the idle air controller valve under the intake. And they do fail. An unknowing person might jack the throttle stop screw or otherwise to try to get it to idle, but that doesn't address the real problem.

Recommendation: Start the car, and left-foot brake while you put it in gear, right foot on the throttle to keep it running. Then you can at least do a little test driving to make sure the rest of the car meets your expectations.

The New Visitors thread at the top of this page offers lists of things to look for when buying a 928. Lists include deferred maintenance watch-outs. By this time in the car's life, it needs or has received a full "intake refresh", including all the hoses, sensors, switches, and the idle air controller that live underneath. The cam covers and intake manifold itself are in need of refinishing, easy to do while they are off for the various services and parts renewal.

There are other things on the list that deserve your consideration of course. My general advice is to plan on an initial $5k in rubber parts and a few critical components to make the car safe and reliable. Cosmetic and other upgrade costs will be in addition, as will any labor that you need to have done for you. Some may say that it's hard to justify that $15-20k in first-year costs (including your $7500 purchase cost), but consider that you'll be in for a fraction of the original $60k+ purchase price. Annual parts-and-pieces budget for my well-maintained car is $2500 whether I drive the car a little or a lot. It gets less some years more in others of course. If yours will be a daily driver, up that some to cover tires and more insurance.

Listmembers are often willing to help you out with another set of eyes, perhaps more critical based on their knowledge and experience with similar cars. If you can share your location, we can usually recommend a 928-savvy resource to do a PPI for you so you have a good grasp of what you are buying and what it will need. Good 928-capable shops are not common, by the way.

Keep us informed on your progress and decisions on the car. If you choose not to buy it, perhaps another lister will be interested. If you do, you are among the most supportive group of enthusiasts here.

safulop

Considering that I have no one interested in my S4 that needs almost nothing, I'm wondering why anyone is interested in an S4 that doesn't run right...

linderpat

that perplexes me too. Maybe color? Who knows. Remarket again n the spring. That car should have been long gone.

Captain_Slow

Safulop - I checked out the pics of your car you posted elsewhere. Very nice car. I agree with Ed...and I LOVE the color! A "car person" (one who considers all aspects of a car and the care it received from previous owner...and miles not being of primary concern) will buy it if marketed properly. However, the market still limits what a car person will pay for it....and miles are a primary market price factor. Someone who loves the color and appreciates the condition and maintenance, and knows 928s perhaps is willing to paying slightly more because they understand all the positives. Almost four years ago I over paid for my car by at least $1500-$2000. But the car was an hour from my house, it had a 6-month old TB/WP and engine cleaning done by Kevin Lacy, and came with a lot of spares, service covers, and BBS LM wheels I didn't like on a 928 and sold for good money. If you have parts and other valuable extras to go with the car, it could tip the scale in your favor.

Adk46

My sense is that the TBF thing is the only big mechanical show-stopper on these cars - lots to read here on this issue, and there's a reasonably way to check it. Paint and interior are huge. Other things depend more on you than the car - your tolerance of issues big and small, and either your DIY skills or your wallet. And whether you've fallen in love with the car or not.

It will certainly have more problems than just the idle. The more you know about them, the better you'll know the fair price for the car. Sounds quite fair already (assuming no thrust bearing wear).

safulop

In my own experience I found it was better to overpay for a nice car, rather than buy a mechanical clunker, because you're almost always overpaying for one of those no matter how cheap it seems. I actually did buy a clunker 87 that looked great, for $9100. It needed *everything* - timing belt, intake refresh, MAF, fuel lines.... complete going over. It was at my shop with the bills racking up past $5,000 when the shop burned down and totalled my car. I got every dime from insurance but honestly looking back, that fire saved me a lot of heartache down the road. I could never have afforded to completely fix that old car, which was completely original in almost every way.

As for my car now for sale, patience is key but yeah, somebody lowball me! I'm "asking" $16K but in a good mood I might take a lot less. Brand new tires!

Mrmerlin

it could be as simple as a coil wire going bad, and it has 2