Head Restoration for 928 Heads
01-10-2017, 11:04 AM
#1
Developer
Thread Starter
Head Restoration for 928 Heads
We are now offering head restoration services for corroded 928 heads.
Actually, been doing this as-needed for a few years, just decided to give it a name.
So... if you have some horribly corroded hard-to-find heads, like these from a M28-21 motor - we may be able to save them!
I'm doing a set of GTS heads now... much cheaper than replacing the GTS heads. I will post pics of the GTS heads before-and-after as soon as I can.
Here is a link to the page
https://928motorsports.com/services/...estoration.php
Pricing is:
16v heads: $310 each head
32v heads: $360 each head
Actually, been doing this as-needed for a few years, just decided to give it a name.
So... if you have some horribly corroded hard-to-find heads, like these from a M28-21 motor - we may be able to save them!
I'm doing a set of GTS heads now... much cheaper than replacing the GTS heads. I will post pics of the GTS heads before-and-after as soon as I can.
Here is a link to the page
https://928motorsports.com/services/...estoration.php
Pricing is:
16v heads: $310 each head
32v heads: $360 each head
01-10-2017, 11:39 AM
#5
Developer
Thread Starter
1) Maintain a quality anti-freeze in your system that has the right additives. In this case, corrosion inhibitors for aluminum.
2) do not use tap water - especially if you know yours has a lot of mineral content (promotes ionization). Use filtered drinking water or distilled water.
3) maintain a good ground between the engine and the chassis. Merely looking to see that your ground strap is in place is not enough. Many have removed their engine ground strap and discovered it is badly corroded inside. Replace as needed.
Here is a pretty good article about cooling system corrosion via electrolysis:
http://www.aa1car.com/library/coolin..._corrosion.htm
2) do not use tap water - especially if you know yours has a lot of mineral content (promotes ionization). Use filtered drinking water or distilled water.
3) maintain a good ground between the engine and the chassis. Merely looking to see that your ground strap is in place is not enough. Many have removed their engine ground strap and discovered it is badly corroded inside. Replace as needed.
Here is a pretty good article about cooling system corrosion via electrolysis:
http://www.aa1car.com/library/coolin..._corrosion.htm
Last edited by Carl Fausett; 01-10-2017 at 11:57 AM.
01-10-2017, 11:52 AM
#6
Administrator - "Tyson"
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I've asked that before and do not recall an answer. Only certain heads have them. I have a set of early EuroS heads and late, one has the notch, the other doesn't (I don't remember which ones without digging them out of storage).
01-10-2017, 12:02 PM
#7
Rennlist Member
1) Maintain a quality anti-freeze in your system that has the right additives. In this case, corrosion inhibitors for aluminum.
2) do not use tap water - especially if you know yours has a lot of mineral content (promotes ionization). Use filtered drinking water or distilled water.
3) maintain a good ground between the engine and the chassis. Merely looking to see that your ground strap is in place is not enough. Many have removed their engine ground strap and discovered it is badly corroded inside. Replace as needed.
Here is a pretty good article about cooling system corrosion via electrolysis:
http://www.aa1car.com/library/coolin..._corrosion.htm
2) do not use tap water - especially if you know yours has a lot of mineral content (promotes ionization). Use filtered drinking water or distilled water.
3) maintain a good ground between the engine and the chassis. Merely looking to see that your ground strap is in place is not enough. Many have removed their engine ground strap and discovered it is badly corroded inside. Replace as needed.
Here is a pretty good article about cooling system corrosion via electrolysis:
http://www.aa1car.com/library/coolin..._corrosion.htm
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01-10-2017, 12:10 PM
#8
Chronic Tool Dropper
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1) Maintain a quality anti-freeze in your system that has the right additives. In this case, corrosion inhibitors for aluminum.
2) do not use tap water - especially if you know yours has a lot of mineral ionisation. Use filtered drinking water or distilled water.
3) maintain a good ground between the engine and the chassis. Merely looking to see that your ground strap is in place is not enough. Many have removed their engine ground strap and discovered it is badly corroded inside. Replace as needed.
2) do not use tap water - especially if you know yours has a lot of mineral ionisation. Use filtered drinking water or distilled water.
3) maintain a good ground between the engine and the chassis. Merely looking to see that your ground strap is in place is not enough. Many have removed their engine ground strap and discovered it is badly corroded inside. Replace as needed.
Can I suggest that common "filtered drinking water" is not a good option. Unless it's an RO filter, "Filtered Drinking Water" has some of the less fragrant metals and aromatic components removed, but leaves in a large mineral component so it tastes OK. FWIW, bottled drinking water has a much lower mineral purity standard than tap water, and in many cases will be worse than tap water. Many coolants used to include phosphates to bind up dissolved minerals, but those are absent by design from coolants intended for our aluminum engines. Stick with real distilled water, or water that's been "purified" through a good RO (reverse-osmosis) demineralizer. Distilled water is common enough and cheap enough to make it an easy choice.
-----
Related: The Honda Pilot DD is due for it's second coolant change, based on my "twice as often" as Honda's four-year change schedule. Honda is particular about their coolant recommendations, to the point where they spec their coolant already mixed with the correct water. It's not so expensive that it's worth the risk of block and head and radiator damage.
As Carl's pictures show, lots of damage is available with undermaintained cooling systems. We see and can repair the head and sometimes the block sealing surfaces. But the rest of the water jacket, including passages in the head and the block, see the same coolant. Lots of invisible damage. The heater core, steel coolant piping and the radiator are all victims.
01-10-2017, 12:41 PM
#10
Rennlist Member
The problem with many coolants s that the glycol will last forever but the anti corrosion chemicals do not. My policy has been to change coolant every 4 years but after two yeas I bleed a quantiy off, throw in some new and add a bottle of redline water wetter with its anti corrosion package.
Seems to have worked but even then I am thinking of total change every 2 years given some of the stuff I have read.
Still have the original GTS heads as supplied with the original [TBF's] engine. One of them was chewed away somewhat.
A small query for Carl: when they weld the face of the head in damaged areas only I presume you have to machine off some of the original [good metal] to allow for the undercut where the weld metal abuts the original metal so one would lose a mm or two on the critical head dimension- would that be correct?
Rgds
Fred
Seems to have worked but even then I am thinking of total change every 2 years given some of the stuff I have read.
Still have the original GTS heads as supplied with the original [TBF's] engine. One of them was chewed away somewhat.
A small query for Carl: when they weld the face of the head in damaged areas only I presume you have to machine off some of the original [good metal] to allow for the undercut where the weld metal abuts the original metal so one would lose a mm or two on the critical head dimension- would that be correct?
Rgds
Fred
01-10-2017, 05:37 PM
#12
Developer
Thread Starter
The problem with many coolants s that the glycol will last forever but the anti corrosion chemicals do not.
The additives included:
- an anti-foaming agent
- anti-corrosion agent(s)
- a water pump lubricant
- a dispursant to prevent/reduce sludge settling out
- a surfactant to break surface tension so the coolant can get into closer contact with the metal and carry away the heat better
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928Tom (02-29-2024)
01-11-2017, 10:26 AM
#13
Rennlist Member
Thanks Carl, now you tell me! Where were you a year ago? LOL. Just kidding. Looks great, and so does the price. When I can I will probably send you the 89 heads I removed.