TB change help
11-04-2003, 08:00 PM
#1
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TB change help
Rebuilt the tensioner...installed it.
Replaced idler and large roller.
I am trying to install the TB, but it will not go on. I have all of the slack to the tensioner. I also have the tensioner backed off all the way. It seems that the belt is not long enough when you have the senser dimple in there. I can compress the tensioner spring, but it is not enough.
I do not know what I am doing wrong. Please help.
Replaced idler and large roller.
I am trying to install the TB, but it will not go on. I have all of the slack to the tensioner. I also have the tensioner backed off all the way. It seems that the belt is not long enough when you have the senser dimple in there. I can compress the tensioner spring, but it is not enough.
I do not know what I am doing wrong. Please help.
11-04-2003, 08:05 PM
#3
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Thread Starter
The idler roller is in between the belt. As the belt comes off the water pump it is above the idler...as it comes back to the tensioner it is below it.
Is the belt supposed to be that tight when they are new, or should it slip on without and straining.
Is the belt supposed to be that tight when they are new, or should it slip on without and straining.
11-04-2003, 08:49 PM
#4
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I found that you tend to "lose a tooth" if you don't manually tension the belt properly as it goes over the driver's side cam gear. If you have that extra slack between the oil pump and that cam gear you won't be able to get the belt over the passenger's side cam gear. The belt will be tight even if you take up all the slack, but you'll be able to get it on.
11-04-2003, 09:51 PM
#5
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What is the procedure for getting the belt on?
First over the crank, then the oil pump, up and over driver side cam, around water pump, then over passenge side cam gear.
If this is right, how do you install the tensioner rollers? The senser nipple will not allow this piece to go on with the belt around it.
How is it supposed to be done?
First over the crank, then the oil pump, up and over driver side cam, around water pump, then over passenge side cam gear.
If this is right, how do you install the tensioner rollers? The senser nipple will not allow this piece to go on with the belt around it.
How is it supposed to be done?
11-04-2003, 11:27 PM
#7
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About 3/4 of the way down John Pirtle's site
http://members.rennlist.com/pirtle/svc.html
is the factory manula pic of the belt run. Check you have it right.
jp
http://members.rennlist.com/pirtle/svc.html
is the factory manula pic of the belt run. Check you have it right.
jp
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11-05-2003, 07:57 AM
#8
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I checked out John's site and I have the belt run correct. When I try to put the tenioner rollers on last, I do not have enough slack in the belt to get the senser nipple into the tensioner roller cradle. Is there a better way of doing this. I am currently putting the senser nipple and spring onto the tensioner, running the slack of the belt to this point, and trying to install the rollers. I cannot get enough clearance to get the nipple to clear the roller assembly.
11-05-2003, 11:52 AM
#9
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Put the rollers over the belt with the nipple in place while you position it over the right side cam gear. Make sure you have no slack between the oil pump and the left side cam. If necessary, back the left side cam gear SLIGHTLY to make sure you grab the correct tooth.
11-05-2003, 12:37 PM
#10
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Similar Problem
I had similar problem. I needed a good 3/4". I found the piston and washers of the tensioner hadn't seated completely, it felt good goin in??; had to remove piston/washers, etc. and reinstall, suddenly I gained the clearance, still had to back the passenger cam 1/2 notch to catch, nothing to spare, but happy day! I then turned the engine by hand 3 or 4 times to make sure all lined up and proper tension on belt. No paranoia there! 
11-05-2003, 01:03 PM
#11
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I posted this picture last week on another thread. Same one that John Pirtle had on his site. Sorry for the quality...best I could get out of the PDF file....for reference, page 15-14 in Volume 1 of the WSM.
There's also a good schematic of the routing of the belt through the tension idlers on Tony's site at: http://members.rennlist.com/v1uhoh/timing.htm
Regards,
SteveCo in St. John's
There's also a good schematic of the routing of the belt through the tension idlers on Tony's site at: http://members.rennlist.com/v1uhoh/timing.htm
Regards,
SteveCo in St. John's
11-05-2003, 01:45 PM
#12
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Thread Starter
SteveG,
How did you remove the washers/piston with the seal and clamp already installed? Is there a way to get these off without ruining the clamp?
Thanks!
How did you remove the washers/piston with the seal and clamp already installed? Is there a way to get these off without ruining the clamp?
Thanks!
11-05-2003, 05:00 PM
#14
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Lots of good advice so far - to add a couple of thoughts,
Assuming you're still at the 45 deg. stage w. the flywheel locked,
- ErnestSW is correct re. slight clockwise cam rotation to allow the belt to be positioned on the marks under tension(ie., correct # of teeth between crank/cam/cam)
- to gain 'another hand', I use small, plactic faced spring clamps to retain the TB on the cam gears.
-will place my $'s on Steve G being correct re seating of the tensioner innards. Did you have it apart?- the piston can go in bassackwards allowing the O-ring to slip past the machined bore- and jam: to get it apart when installed is realitively easy. Use that famous thin bladed screwdriver to carefully pry open the crimp on the clamp- once you've done your thing inside and lacking a new clamp, the same one can be reinstalled and tightly recrimped in place with end cutters. Again this is done on the car - no need to open the tensioner/block gasket if its' OK
- back the tensioner bolt nearly all the way out!!--install the push rod ,without the spring (temporarily) and begin threading in the tensioner bolt : you must feel the push rod moving in concert w. the Tensioner bolt(ie., everything's in place) . As long as washer count/positioning is correct, then reassemble w. spring etc.
- the carrier arm can then be manipulated into position.
Hope it's simple, G
Assuming you're still at the 45 deg. stage w. the flywheel locked,
- ErnestSW is correct re. slight clockwise cam rotation to allow the belt to be positioned on the marks under tension(ie., correct # of teeth between crank/cam/cam)
- to gain 'another hand', I use small, plactic faced spring clamps to retain the TB on the cam gears.
-will place my $'s on Steve G being correct re seating of the tensioner innards. Did you have it apart?- the piston can go in bassackwards allowing the O-ring to slip past the machined bore- and jam: to get it apart when installed is realitively easy. Use that famous thin bladed screwdriver to carefully pry open the crimp on the clamp- once you've done your thing inside and lacking a new clamp, the same one can be reinstalled and tightly recrimped in place with end cutters. Again this is done on the car - no need to open the tensioner/block gasket if its' OK
- back the tensioner bolt nearly all the way out!!--install the push rod ,without the spring (temporarily) and begin threading in the tensioner bolt : you must feel the push rod moving in concert w. the Tensioner bolt(ie., everything's in place) . As long as washer count/positioning is correct, then reassemble w. spring etc.
- the carrier arm can then be manipulated into position.
Hope it's simple, G