Chris Lockhart

Thanks. Sean's is a beautiful piece and is the one I would've bought had I not gone this route.

skpyle

Well done, Chris!
Good looking harness you've built, there.

Koenig-Specials 928

Great job there Chris.
Well done

AirtekHVAC

Great work Chris

worf928

BigUn: Awesome work man!

Folks: great thread!

worf928

Btw, these folks (https://www.sherco-auto.com/striped-tracer-wire.html) have striped marine grade wire available for not a lot of dough. It's not identical to OE striped wire but it's cost effective (I haven't checked against the above links to other sources; they may be cheaper.)

I ordered a couple of hundred bucks worth a long time ago for fixing harnesses and for making new (mostly for stereo installs for new though.)

Chris Lockhart

Thank you very much guys. It's much appreciated.

dr bob

Chris--

Did you go with the 4ga on the power feeders as my little table suggested? The original size is somewhere between 4ga and 6ga, but using "standard" 4ga cable makes the connection at the alternator kind of tricky. Lots of potential for mechanical issues with both the cables and the lugs. More room is available at the starter plus the terminal bolt there is bigger. I'm thinking that a single feeder could go from alternator to starter, then a 4ga from starter to jump post and a 6ga from starter to ABS terminal. Still in the 'thinking" stage.

Love the printed shrink-sleeve labels.

You mention that you still have the solder terminals for the 14-pin -- Were this my project, I'd be sorely tempted to start at that connector and work back from there, dressing those conductors as they route into the sleeve and that first bend and loop back by the engine-lift loop. To get all the bends to work neatly, it almost deserves a nail-board with all the bends included so the conductors lay correctly around the various bends.

Is that the 50 (starter solenoid trigger) wire routed outside the main sleeve?

Are you using Firesleeve on the whole thing, or just where the cables pass the exhaust just forward from and across the crossmember? Comes back to "original appearance" vs functionality.

Chris Lockhart

Hey Bob. Starting at the 14 pin would have been optimal, but because I had to bring components in to work to use the larger electric/hydraulic crimper, it forced me to start at the alt/starter end. Yes I did go with the 4 AWG. Yes, I did route the 50 Start Trigger outside the main harness in it's own sleeve at the suggestion of a trusted Rennlister. I did use firesleeve on the whole thing even though it's not necessary, just for continuity of visual appearance. Not worried about factory look on much of anything really. You know me, LOL. Although I am trying to keep this one a little more stealthy than my GT.

The printed heat shrink sleeves are amazing. I absolutely love them. Fairly inexpensive system/tape.

Here's one similar the K-Sun I use:

https://www.imagesupply.com/products...ant=1013503235

dr bob

Nice little printer. I've been "borrowing" capacity on a slightly larger Brady system, but access is not continuous. I'll probably depend on the factory color-coding instead of labeling. This jury is out on whether to leave the 50 wire outside a primary sleeve, or leave the B+ outside that primary sleeve with the 50 inside.

The B+ is separate at the 14-pin end, and in fact only needs the exciter along with it to the alternator. Of course this is just part of the "solution", as IMHO the jump post to CE panel B+ feeders need to be upgraded too. Still deciding the best way for all of this.

Bambalam

Hi Chris, hope this job is going well.

I have a couple of wiring question for you and any other wiring experts out there - hoping this isn't a thread hi-jack.

Whats your opinion on cross linked XLPE cables? This is recommended for high temperatures such as engine bays and considering the issues the 928 has with engine bay temps then I thought more people would be using it or is it overkill.

http://www.rapidcables.com.au/thin-w...d-xlpe-txl-aex
(hope this link works)

Do you have a suggestion for the shielded triple core cable for the knock sensor wiring? There seems to be different types out there and I am not sure of the best type, I have bought new Bosch connectors but the wiring is all stiff and cracked.

Great to see someone tackling these jobs at home - you have inspired me to tackle the electrical issues - I am more of a mechanical guy.

Simon

dr bob

Simon --

I'm sure you won't go wrong with that cable. Is it needed? Hmmm. The harness in question lives with radiator fan heat blowing on it for all but a couple sections down low. There's a case for using the higher temp rated cables for those sections, and/or adding protective heat and abrasion sleeve for those critical areas. ASSuming that the radiator is 100% thermal transfer efficient (it's nowhere close...) the max air temp coming out of the fans will be less than the 220ºF engine-overheat temp. So any cable rated for that temp should be fine.

I looked at some pretty interesting Kynar-insulated wiring used in some industrial applications. Way overkill for the 928 KS-2 application, risking only wallet damage. I suspect that some combination of heat plus oil and other fluids (oil, fuel, Brake Cleaner, etc) is the major cause of damage to the PVC insulation in these harnesses. Looking for a cable more resistant to both will be a big help.

The one in my car, original one, looks pretty good from the outside. Everything Works So Far. If I can at least match the original specs and get another 30 years of trouble-free service from a new harness, I'll be more than satisfied.

Kevin in Atlanta

Heat is certainly an issue. If there was a way to keep the oil out of the wiring the entire harness might last longer. I am speaking specially of the front end harness.

Bambalam

Thanks Bob, my theory has always been to keep the engine bay free of oil with degreasing but I didn't realize the damage the degreaser was doing.
Australia and probably some of the southern states also suffer from the heat generated in the engine bay so we are up against from 2 directions.
I have read that alot of the problems with the 928 will be electrical and threads like this will benefit all of us. I am hoping Chris or others might get onto replacing some of the other wires on the engine wiring loom and post some tips.
I figured if we can replace some of these wires with some more modern items then it would benefit the entire 928 community.

Simon

Chris Lockhart

Hey Simon, the TXL is good wire. Definitely go with it if you can. Not sure how easy it is in Australia to find the proper striped wire though. I found a place to get the proper colors to keep things properly color coded for accuracy in trouble shooting in the future. Solid colors were fairly easy, and I purchased the TXL for that, but I had to go with GXL for the striped as it was the only wire I could find by the foot. I got it from 4RCustomwire.com, and they sell/ship international. The solid colors I got from The Pacer Group. It was Marine grade tinned wire. Both companies were great to deal with. The connectors I got from Roger at 928sRus. If you have access to the correct type crimp tools, and aren't in a rush, I say do it yourself. I'm far from an expert (on ANYTHING! LOL.) but if you have reasonable mechanical knowledge and take your time, it's a fun project. I'm glad I did mine.