When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
As other recommend, the car comes down on the wheels, a few butt-bounces on the front apron (hood open) before final tightening of the rear clamp bolts. Then drove the car some before loosening, another couple butt-bounces, then tighten again.
I suppose I could set another couple anchors in teh floor, and use turnbuckles to pull the suspension down at the front tie-down ears.
Completed the MM/OPG just before rolling the car into its winter storage spot. Everything is tight now. In the spring, it will get a couple hot laps of somewhere, to settle everything, then re-clamp and finally do the alignment. We need to align at least one other local car at the same time, so --maybe-- we'll be able to get some good pics and video of the process for posteriority.
I suspect everything in the WSM is written to a shop, no DIY'ers at home. Since an alignment is required after installing or re-installing suspension arms, that procedure follows which pulls the car down to proper ride height before tightening the bolts.
Åke, here is the only image I'm ware of in the WSM:
Thank you Hacker, page 44-2a is missing in my factory workshop manual. I know I have not received all supplements over the years, apparently, this is one of the pages I have missed.
Åke
If these were put together wrong (torqued too early) would pulling the bolts out 'two threads worth' and drive around some be enough, or would you have to raise the car off the ground and start over.
I jack each corner with the bushing loose (under the ball joint), that gives it pretty much the full compression it would get when the suspension is settled and then I tighten the bolts. I do this to every car, not just the 928.
So, I am just replacing upper and lower control arms on 88 S4. I read the manual as saying only the REAR BOLTS need to be left loose to settle the suspension with never seize (copper) on the threads only.
Since I have a 2 post lift I will attempt to lower the car on a floor jack under the lower ball joint to assist in settling. Any comments?
If I turn the shock collar to compress the spring will this lower the vehicle ride height or raise it? I believe it should lower the height but I go back and forth with my inner thoughts.
Thomas
So, I am just replacing upper and lower control arms on 88 S4. I read the manual as saying only the REAR BOLTS need to be left loose to settle the suspension with never seize (copper) on the threads only.
Since I have a 2 post lift I will attempt to lower the car on a floor jack under the lower ball joint to assist in settling. Any comments?
If I turn the shock collar to compress the spring will this lower the vehicle ride height or raise it? I believe it should lower the height but I go back and forth with my inner thoughts.
Thomas
No idea where you read it was the rear only- this applies to the front suspension.
I jack each corner with the bushing loose (under the ball joint), that gives it pretty much the full compression it would get when the suspension is settled and then I tighten the bolts. I do this to every car, not just the 928.
I have a tough time getting a jack or support under the lower ball joint with the tires on the car. For winter storage, I made a couple supports that can just get to the lower balljoint bolts, but not to the end.
I'm sort of thinking that I could leave one droplink loose for the anti-roll bar, then jack the front wheels one at a time with the wheel jack. 70mm WSM "pull-down" spec should translate to maybe 3" of "extra" suspension compression with the wheel jack. Need to see if I can do one side 3 net inches without lifting the other side.
For those playing at home, success is achieved when you can get the car to sit at the same ride height you had prior to lifting the car. Measure that height before you lift the car at all, and you'll be able to easily tell when you get it pulled down then settled at the same height regardless of how you get it settled.
That works for one side, but then when you do the other side, you end up re-extending the first side again. I guss you could get a better/easier position for tightening the saddle, but it wouldn't get the car down to settled height immediately.
---
I have anchors embedded in the floor for the MaxJax lift. I "just" need a piece of something stiff to bolt down with those, something that would be strong enough to pull on without too much bending in the process. Then drive the car up onto something (ramps or planks) to make room between the tie-down ears and that piece of something for a turnbuckle.
With the 5/8" anchors, I wonder if pulling those front corners down one at a time would work? A 5/8" rigger's threaded lifting eye, car placed so the tie-down point is directly above it, then pull that corner down per WSM. Then release after the saddle is tight. Then do the other side, same thing. Can I get front to go down low enough and stay down, one side at a time?
I'm finishing up a motor mmount oil pan gasket project and am about to reinstall the lower control arms. should I lubricate the bushing on the back of the lower control arm before installing the bracket?
12-11-2016 | 07:42 PM
