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Engine accessory shock absorbing stand offs bad

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Old 11-26-2016, 01:45 AM
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Steve Drake
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Default Engine accessory shock absorbing stand offs bad

Reworked my 86.5 Fuel injectors this week and found two shock absorbing stand offs broken free and wonder if others have found a source for them.

First one holds the intake housing between the MAF and throttle body. There are two at the rear of this housing and the one on the throttle side is broken free. I know too heavy footed I'm betting this one is hard to get to. The center T shaped large diameter tube of the intake holds the throotle body and the whole assembly down and steady but I may make a secondary brace until I pull the entire intake off one day. I am going to pull the MAF and Throttle body to clean them up and try to get the return spring on the trottle body to work better. However the housing they fit too looks like I would need to pull the whole intake off the heads to get the housing out and under it. Have not found anything in my manuals about removing this housing. Anyone else seem this failed part?

#2 is the passager side of the air cleaner housing bolt. This is fixed to a strap under the air cleaner and it can be taken out. I need a two sided 10mm bolt sized stand off to replace it by drilling through the strap and holing it on the strap with a nut from behind. Anybody solved this one before?

Any suggestions welcome. Steve in Carlsbad
Old 11-26-2016, 02:17 AM
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skpyle
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Those stand offs are readily available from the regular 928 suppliers.
I just replaced both the air cleaner mounting stand offs on the Red Witch.

Part number: 99970326000 for the air cleaner
99970326100 and 99970326500 for the throttle body mount

Numbers sourced from PET via AutoAtlanta.


Seth K. Pyle
Old 11-26-2016, 09:20 AM
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Mrmerlin
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to remove the ones broken off use PB blaster to soak the metal base then use a sharp chisel and hammer to tap it loose
Old 11-26-2016, 12:38 PM
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We stock them all and have more economical alternatives for the Porsche $25 ones.
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Old 11-27-2016, 05:54 PM
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Steve Drake
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Thanks all for the insights and references. Will get'm ordered and keep pushing ahead. Thanks to you guys.
Steve
Old 12-14-2016, 09:05 PM
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Default Replacing the stand offs for the Air Flow casting

Here is a new one, a broken one and a ground down one after removal.


The following is the Air flow casting bottom showing the three positions for the vibration reducing stand offs. This casting holds the MAF and Throttle body.


The broken stand off supports are threaded in the block and have a steel disk the rubber is bonded too. They may be easy to remove or may not. Mine were fairly easy to get out if you work at it. The disk is only about 3 mm thick so it is hard to grab. The one above was my most stuck in place of the three. The other two were able to be backed out after grinding a slot into them with a dremel and cut off wheel, then soaking with penetrating oil. For the one shown, I had to cut the dish so I could put a wench on it. The one at the top has not been removed in this picture. The similar looking spot at the bottom is not one of the mounting positions.


There are two more that hold the air filter housing and one for the the Idle stabilizing value. They are "easy" to remove because you can remove the brackets they are attached to. When installing them using a bit of release agent or antiseeze is a good idea. They can't vibrate out as they are held from spinning on the other end.

Roger supplies these at a very good price and all you need to do is shorten one end of the two on the sides a little. Leave the one at the back long as it holds an bracket for the Idle valve.

These are two vacuum hoses you will need to replace that attach to the bottom front of the Air flow casting then to the oil breather system. The more complex one on the bottom was not on the reference drawing. So here is it's part number 928 107 313 00. Roger stocks it. There are others but you can see them on the Porsche drawing for the "86 928S 32 valve car.



You don't want to come back to replace a vacuum hose latter so replace all the hoses now. Then again maybe you are someone that just has to clean the top of the block from time to time. The rule sure seems to be the more you touch like electrical connections the more you have to replace. This work was combined with cleaning the throttle body springs to improve the return of the gas pedal. Also to clean up the MAF electrical connection. I checked the Idle stabilizer and Full throttle switch while there too. Now it I can just find that darn vacuum leak I can say goodbye to this part of the engine for awhile.
Cheers, Steve



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