HIGHWAYMAN: Bringing the Devore 928 back from the dead
01-05-2017, 02:09 AM
#332
Nordschleife Master
01-05-2017, 07:35 PM
#333
Banned
Thread Starter
Rotors and spacers
Caught a break in the rain today, enough time to throw on the rear rotors as well as the correct spacers. I also used new rotor set screws.
01-05-2017, 07:59 PM
#334
Banned
Thread Starter
Refinishing calipers
If you guys recall from last time, the rear calipers had their seals and dust boots replaced. I then bought the S4 rears from Mark, and did the same thing to those.
The cores were nasty, however, and I am a stickler for having everything look as new. For starters, Roger Penske once said; "life is too short to be a goddamned slob"
Ok, I made that last part up. But what Penske did that was interesting is he was the first race team to tile the floor in his pit area. He actually had tiles laid down and had all the mechanics in clean uniforms. Cars were spotless. You could eat off the tools.
I was at my alignment guy the other day. One guy brought in his chump car Miata. Complete turd, filthy, dirt and dust everywhere.
I get it, chump car has a budget maximum. But cleaning a car is free, right? Not looking like a slob is free as well, right?
I digress.
Which is why the calipers are going to be refinished properly. Because when the car stops moving, it becomes a static art display.
Now there are some people who are going to get upset with my methods. Sorry blowhards, it's worked for me for probably 20 sets of calipers. Do it at your own risk.
Why refinish at this stage? Some important reasons:
1. Seals and dust boots are now new, very little chance of contaminants reaching the inside of the caliper.
2. If you refinish BEFORE you reseal, you will spill brake fluid from inside the caliper and it will ruin your caliper paint.
HOW I DO IT.
-Take your caliper, put the old bleed screws in and place the screw caps on.
- Take a spare bleed screw, and screw it into the feed port on the side of the caliper. Put on the rubber cap.
- take DUCT TAPE and mask the piston area. You don't so much care about refinishing this because a) no one sees it and b) it will get filled with brake dust within the first 20 miles. See a.
Next, place the caliper in your handy blast cabinet. Limit the pressure to 100 PSI, and avoid spraying by the piston area. If you do overshoot it's not a big deal; this is why we use duct tape. Blast media will not cut through it on a glancing blow.
Now you have your bare caliper, ready for paint.
No scrubbing, no sanding - you will never be able to strip a caliper of its paint manually and your paint job will look like **** - promise!
Next, paint!
The cores were nasty, however, and I am a stickler for having everything look as new. For starters, Roger Penske once said; "life is too short to be a goddamned slob"
Ok, I made that last part up. But what Penske did that was interesting is he was the first race team to tile the floor in his pit area. He actually had tiles laid down and had all the mechanics in clean uniforms. Cars were spotless. You could eat off the tools.
I was at my alignment guy the other day. One guy brought in his chump car Miata. Complete turd, filthy, dirt and dust everywhere.
I get it, chump car has a budget maximum. But cleaning a car is free, right? Not looking like a slob is free as well, right?
I digress.
Which is why the calipers are going to be refinished properly. Because when the car stops moving, it becomes a static art display.
Now there are some people who are going to get upset with my methods. Sorry blowhards, it's worked for me for probably 20 sets of calipers. Do it at your own risk.
Why refinish at this stage? Some important reasons:
1. Seals and dust boots are now new, very little chance of contaminants reaching the inside of the caliper.
2. If you refinish BEFORE you reseal, you will spill brake fluid from inside the caliper and it will ruin your caliper paint.
HOW I DO IT.
-Take your caliper, put the old bleed screws in and place the screw caps on.
- Take a spare bleed screw, and screw it into the feed port on the side of the caliper. Put on the rubber cap.
- take DUCT TAPE and mask the piston area. You don't so much care about refinishing this because a) no one sees it and b) it will get filled with brake dust within the first 20 miles. See a.
Next, place the caliper in your handy blast cabinet. Limit the pressure to 100 PSI, and avoid spraying by the piston area. If you do overshoot it's not a big deal; this is why we use duct tape. Blast media will not cut through it on a glancing blow.
Now you have your bare caliper, ready for paint.
No scrubbing, no sanding - you will never be able to strip a caliper of its paint manually and your paint job will look like **** - promise!
Next, paint!
01-06-2017, 12:18 PM
#335
Developer
A thanks to MSDS Headers -
Word of this "DeVore Build" 928 has gotten out!
Marty from MSDS called me a couple days ago and offered to provide Adam a free set of merged collector headers for his project. I will be Jet-Hot coating them for Adam, and they will be a great addition to the project.
I will post new pictures one they come back from coating. Pics below are the headers as they arrive uncoated to me.
Our thanks to MSDS for their continued support of the 928! Thanks, Marty!
Marty from MSDS called me a couple days ago and offered to provide Adam a free set of merged collector headers for his project. I will be Jet-Hot coating them for Adam, and they will be a great addition to the project.
I will post new pictures one they come back from coating. Pics below are the headers as they arrive uncoated to me.
Our thanks to MSDS for their continued support of the 928! Thanks, Marty!
01-06-2017, 12:23 PM
#336
Developer
We will be putting one of our stainless steel Header-X's behind the headers, like this:
The rest of the exhaust system is up to Adam - looking a his work on this post, you know it will be slick!
The rest of the exhaust system is up to Adam - looking a his work on this post, you know it will be slick!
01-06-2017, 12:26 PM
#337
Banned
Thread Starter
woooohooo! I really want to thank MSDS for their insane generosity in donating these headers, totally unasked by us.
I also want to thank Carl and 928 Motorsports for making this happen secretly - nice surprise!!! Thank you both!!!
I also want to thank Carl and 928 Motorsports for making this happen secretly - nice surprise!!! Thank you both!!!
01-06-2017, 06:10 PM
#338
Pro
Marty / msdsinc.com
01-06-2017, 08:25 PM
#340
Banned
Thread Starter
01-06-2017, 08:35 PM
#341
Banned
Thread Starter
Front Right
Got a lot done today.
First off, painted the brake caliper. I went with yellow because Maverick started this random 'paint every other thing yellow' thing on the car, so whatever. Came out nice.
Between coats, I tackled the front wheel bearing. If you have ever done this job on a 911 - it's just like that. You have an inner and outer bearing, with a seal on the inside.
After the hub is dissasembled and cleaned, you punch out the old bearing races with a drift. Then, you press in the new bearing races.
Pack the inside bearing with grease, then put it in, and placing a new oil seal on the hub side.
From there, put in the outer bearing (packing with grease of course), and tighten the whole assembly.
A word about this; the retaining nut isn't very tight here. Just tight enough so when it's correct, you can slightly deflect the washer it sits under with the tip of a screw driver. Tighten the **** out of this and you will be repeating this job soon!
Do yourself a favor and put some Curil T around the edges of the dust cap before you hammer it in. It will save you leaks in the future.
Next, I reassembled the front right suspension, substituting the new shock wile retaining Devore's 1000 pound springs. Torqued everything to spec, all looks good. Greased the fancy bushings as well.
Lastly, I sandblasted the brake rotor. It was like new, just covered in surface rust. I then painted the rotor and hat with silver engine paint. The first drive will strip this paint off all pad surfaces, but leave it on the hat and edge of the rotor so it doesn't rust.
Looks great!!!! And I can personally vouch for every bolt.
First off, painted the brake caliper. I went with yellow because Maverick started this random 'paint every other thing yellow' thing on the car, so whatever. Came out nice.
Between coats, I tackled the front wheel bearing. If you have ever done this job on a 911 - it's just like that. You have an inner and outer bearing, with a seal on the inside.
After the hub is dissasembled and cleaned, you punch out the old bearing races with a drift. Then, you press in the new bearing races.
Pack the inside bearing with grease, then put it in, and placing a new oil seal on the hub side.
From there, put in the outer bearing (packing with grease of course), and tighten the whole assembly.
A word about this; the retaining nut isn't very tight here. Just tight enough so when it's correct, you can slightly deflect the washer it sits under with the tip of a screw driver. Tighten the **** out of this and you will be repeating this job soon!
Do yourself a favor and put some Curil T around the edges of the dust cap before you hammer it in. It will save you leaks in the future.
Next, I reassembled the front right suspension, substituting the new shock wile retaining Devore's 1000 pound springs. Torqued everything to spec, all looks good. Greased the fancy bushings as well.
Lastly, I sandblasted the brake rotor. It was like new, just covered in surface rust. I then painted the rotor and hat with silver engine paint. The first drive will strip this paint off all pad surfaces, but leave it on the hat and edge of the rotor so it doesn't rust.
Looks great!!!! And I can personally vouch for every bolt.
01-06-2017, 10:19 PM
#342
Rennlist Member
Make sure you re-torque all bolts/nuts where you have paint as an 'interlayer', after the first heat cycle, and then check again later ... or remove the paint on those interface contact areas. The paint gets hot and softens during extreme heat events, like with your brake rotor/hat and wheel/hat interfaces, which loosens the clamping force. Not so much an issue on road cars ... can be a big issue on race cars due to extreme temps. Think of the potential total paint layer thicknesses which can soften.
01-07-2017, 05:04 PM
#344
Banned
Thread Starter
Caliper Mount
Mounted the left rear caliper today. Was a 5 minute job, but still nice to see it on the car.
New bleeder screws and caps, of course!
For whatever reason, the supplier sent me Pagid Blue brakes. I asked for Pagid Black based upon Mark's recommendation.
Oh well, they are here, so may as well use them. It's only autocross in the beginning and I confess to knowing very little about the differences in Pagid brake colors.
They match with the calipers, that is a plus....
New bleeder screws and caps, of course!
For whatever reason, the supplier sent me Pagid Blue brakes. I asked for Pagid Black based upon Mark's recommendation.
Oh well, they are here, so may as well use them. It's only autocross in the beginning and I confess to knowing very little about the differences in Pagid brake colors.
They match with the calipers, that is a plus....
01-07-2017, 05:11 PM
#345
Banned
Thread Starter
Power Steering
Another idea shamelessly stolen from Joe Fan is the use of an RSR electric power steering pump. I was sold on this idea the second I saw it. You get:
1. Less parasitic drag on the motor
2. A pump that is designed for a hard racing life, one that will not fail when you need it most.
3. No belts on the engine for PS
4. Weight moved aft into the wheelbase.
They are hard to find used. The pumps are $1300-1800 new and you can get them from Porsche Motorsport NA. I found one used after weeks of searching for $600. I am not averse to buying new, but there isn't a whole lot to go wrong with these to merit a new buy.
These pumps have the goofiest mounting points ever. Had to fab up a little bracket to mount it. Will wire it and plumb it up within the next couple weeks.
1. Less parasitic drag on the motor
2. A pump that is designed for a hard racing life, one that will not fail when you need it most.
3. No belts on the engine for PS
4. Weight moved aft into the wheelbase.
They are hard to find used. The pumps are $1300-1800 new and you can get them from Porsche Motorsport NA. I found one used after weeks of searching for $600. I am not averse to buying new, but there isn't a whole lot to go wrong with these to merit a new buy.
These pumps have the goofiest mounting points ever. Had to fab up a little bracket to mount it. Will wire it and plumb it up within the next couple weeks.