HIGHWAYMAN: Bringing the Devore 928 back from the dead
12-12-2016, 06:34 PM
#211
Team Owner
I hope the machine runs great with any modifications or updates you make
Last edited by Mrmerlin; 12-13-2016 at 10:10 AM.
12-12-2016, 06:55 PM
#212
Banned
Thread Starter
Oh yeah, I was sure of that, before I posted!
That totally explains why the bearing is still not seated in the picture with the hub already pressed in....at which point it is impossible to properly seat the bearing without putting all the pressing pressure on the ***** in the bearing....ruining the bearing.
Totally sure....
That totally explains why the bearing is still not seated in the picture with the hub already pressed in....at which point it is impossible to properly seat the bearing without putting all the pressing pressure on the ***** in the bearing....ruining the bearing.
Totally sure....
You can relax now, since I am looking at the actual part.
12-12-2016, 07:00 PM
#213
Banned
Thread Starter
Well the good news is that the other side will done correctly.
For the OP please read these words carefully
I suggest to use a Mapp gas torch to heat the hub carrier to about 250 to 300F
or use two propane torches.
The propane will not heat hot enough fast enough compared to the Mapp gas
NOTE putting parts into the kitchen oven is not a good idea as any grease or cleaning liquids will quickly contaminate your food cooking oven, as they boil off.
NOTE wear leather gloves, heating the carrier is part of the installation process for these parts.
Use a bearing that has been chilled in the freezer for a few hours
NOTE read the Work Shop Manual before working on the rear wheel bearing removal/ installation.
The process your showing is not following the WSM
I would suggest that you not delete the use of the emergency brake for this machine.
If you should lose the brakes on the track it would be an EXCELLENT idea to have some back up.
Who is going to be holding the brakes while your checking on a running issue in the pits with the engine running whilst in neutral?
It would also be good to have the E brake set in the trailer and not have the car set in gear so it wont damage the transmission from transporting in gear.
NOTE the idea that you will warp the rotors by using the E brake pales compared to the safety factor of removing a separate safety system .
IE dont use the e brake till you have done a cool off lap.
Some of these ideas your posting should not be followed as they could jeopardize other racers.
Or damage the machine should this car ever get to the track.
For the OP please read these words carefully
I suggest to use a Mapp gas torch to heat the hub carrier to about 250 to 300F
or use two propane torches.
The propane will not heat hot enough fast enough compared to the Mapp gas
NOTE putting parts into the kitchen oven is not a good idea as any grease or cleaning liquids will quickly contaminate your food cooking oven, as they boil off.
NOTE wear leather gloves, heating the carrier is part of the installation process for these parts.
Use a bearing that has been chilled in the freezer for a few hours
NOTE read the Work Shop Manual before working on the rear wheel bearing removal/ installation.
The process your showing is not following the WSM
I would suggest that you not delete the use of the emergency brake for this machine.
If you should lose the brakes on the track it would be an EXCELLENT idea to have some back up.
Who is going to be holding the brakes while your checking on a running issue in the pits with the engine running whilst in neutral?
It would also be good to have the E brake set in the trailer and not have the car set in gear so it wont damage the transmission from transporting in gear.
NOTE the idea that you will warp the rotors by using the E brake pales compared to the safety factor of removing a separate safety system .
IE dont use the e brake till you have done a cool off lap.
Some of these ideas your posting should not be followed as they could jeopardize other racers.
Or damage the machine should this car ever get to the track.
I've been working on these cars for 25+ years. I currently own 6 of them. You have your way, I have mine. The WSM is not gospel and Porsche has designed lots of stupid **** that has actually made it into production but it is outweighed by the 99.9% of the stuff they have done right.
Please don't lecture me on the properties of aluminum. One of the companies I own makes automotive aluminum castings. I am fully aware of the care and feeding of aluminum.
As to the e-brake, that is my opinion. Lots and lots of race cars delete the ebrake and I would love to see what could cause a dual master cylinder to fail on both circuits COMPLETELY. Your ebrake will not save you at 150+ miles an hour if that was to occur anyways.
Again, this is NOT an instructional thread, this is what I AM DOING. They are two different things. Follow it at your own peril.
12-12-2016, 07:06 PM
#214
Team Owner
No problem brother, good luck with your build!
12-12-2016, 07:25 PM
#215
The Parts Whisperer
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All this said I removed the E brake on my 928 race car and never missed it. Shy of going through the pits the E brake would make little difference if you lost your brakes on the track
12-12-2016, 08:36 PM
#217
Former Vendor
12-12-2016, 09:41 PM
#218
Former Vendor
Alright Greg, I see your game here. So I sat down with my accountant the other day, and we were talking about my car problem. Last year, I spent $248,000 and some change on two car builds. I like to build and modify Porsches, as you can tell.
And you know what? Because of your know it all attitude, I will never, ever use your services. You've pretty much guaranteed that, and hopefully others who frequent this thread will figure it out as well.
This 928 is worth nothing. It's almost valueless. I am spending 75K on it because it makes me happy, not because it will provide a return like all my air cooled stuff.
This is MY thread, a place for me to show the Devore car. Sorry you are sour over not getting to build the motor.
I did not know you then.
But I know you now.
Don't like what I'm doing? START YOUR OWN THREAD.
And you know what? Because of your know it all attitude, I will never, ever use your services. You've pretty much guaranteed that, and hopefully others who frequent this thread will figure it out as well.
This 928 is worth nothing. It's almost valueless. I am spending 75K on it because it makes me happy, not because it will provide a return like all my air cooled stuff.
This is MY thread, a place for me to show the Devore car. Sorry you are sour over not getting to build the motor.
I did not know you then.
But I know you now.
Don't like what I'm doing? START YOUR OWN THREAD.
And I could care less about what you are doing....less than zero impact on my life....unless you count the laughs I'm getting reading your thread.....or the laughs I'll get in the future, when we drive by.
I just don't want the other good people, here, to think that what you are doing is remotely correct.
12-12-2016, 10:50 PM
#219
Former Vendor
Guess we will see you at the track....as we drive by....assuming this thing ever runs.
You might want to do a search on Carl's other satisfied customers with his stroker engines, so you are adequately prepared.....
12-12-2016, 11:27 PM
#220
Former Vendor
Guess we will see you at the track....as we drive by....assuming this thing ever runs.
You might want to do a search on Carl's other satisfied customers with his stroker engines, so you are adequately prepared.....
12-12-2016, 11:52 PM
#221
Administrator - "Tyson"
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
After a very difficult thread clean up attempt, why don't we try this again?
Seeing this project leave will have me and a lot of people very upset, this is ridiculous.
Bottom line: If you have nothing positive to share with this project, don't post.
If you see something of issue with this build and you are not sure you can politely point it out, send Catorce a PM.
Seeing this project leave will have me and a lot of people very upset, this is ridiculous.
Bottom line: If you have nothing positive to share with this project, don't post.
If you see something of issue with this build and you are not sure you can politely point it out, send Catorce a PM.
12-13-2016, 10:08 AM
#222
Team Owner
the LCA mods are pretty cool to allow for wider wheel/tires
12-13-2016, 11:31 AM
#223
Developer
Mark had the opportunity to drive my race car on a couple occasions, and we playfully went back and forth about the e-brake. For him, its all about the weight savings.
I still have it on my car, mostly because we like to keep the car from rolling away in the pits, out of the trailer before we are ready, etc. It's just a convenience item for us.
Smiles were exchanged when he killed the car coming out of the pits and I signaled him to release the handbrake. He rolled his eyes...
I still have it on my car, mostly because we like to keep the car from rolling away in the pits, out of the trailer before we are ready, etc. It's just a convenience item for us.
Smiles were exchanged when he killed the car coming out of the pits and I signaled him to release the handbrake. He rolled his eyes...
12-13-2016, 05:04 PM
#224
Banned
Thread Starter
Rear Calipers
While the rear suspension is getting some love, it's time to address the rear calipers. First of all, the car had none, so I am not sure if that was just Devore favoring a front bias - you never know with Bob. 
I chose to use 993 rears on this build, because while they are the same size as S4 rears, the pistons are a little bigger potentially giving a little more grip. They are pretty big brakes, all things considered. The first pic shows them next to a set of 996TT fronts (not for this build).
The cores look OK from the outside, but I always like to disassemble them and reseal them prior to doing anything cosmetic.
In order to disassemble them, you need air; with the bleeders still plugged in, take your air nozzle with rubber end and jam it in the fluid feed hole. Some notes:
1. The goal is to pop out all four pistons at once, but it is impossible. The pistons on the far side of the feed hole receive air a little later than those on the close side.
2. You do not want to use so much air that you blow them out at high speed. The pistons WILL become projectiles if you overdo this. Light, measured bursts!
3. Cover the whole assembly in paper towels. There WILL be brake fluid in there, and when it's hit with air, it becomes a fine, corrosive mist that likes car paint.
4. YOU ONLY USE AIR. Do not pry or channel-lock your pistons. Do not score the pistons!!!
5. DO NOT MIX UP THE PISTONS. Keep them matched to their respective bores!
First, use a wood block as a backstop, run some air through there to move all four pistons. This should free them up.
Then, I push one piston out at a time, and I GENTLY use C clamps to hold the other ones down. The C clamps are barely finger tight, they are just preventing the piston from traveling.
As soon as one piston pops, you lose your air pressure. Remove the outer seal, pop it back in, clamp it down lightly, move to the next one.
SOME OBSERVATIONS:
This caliper had some funky calcium-like goo inside, most likely old waterlogged brake fluid. Really nasty, not something you want on a race car. This is why you take your brakes apart!
Piston bores looked great, as did the pistons.
Next, time to remove the old inner seals. These come out with a razor blade or thin flat screwdriver. Again, careful not to scratch the bores!
Then, remove the outer seals, which are a mild press fit.
Now it's time to clean the whole caliper, and good. Use B12 and jam the nozzle into the bleeders, piston bores, and feed holes. Completely flush the caliper with carb cleaner and make sure its clean.
You use carb cleaner because it evaporates - follow it up with some air to help that evaporation along.
Once the caliper is clean and dry, put the inner seals in first.
Lightly lube with the FAINTEST trace of motor oil or brake fluid and insert. Brake seals are put in with your fingers, no tools of any kind are needed!
Then, slide in the pistons, making sure they match the bores you took them out of.
They will not slide in super easy, this is because there is no brake fluid on the other side. You can LIGHTLY use a c clamp to help them in, but most go in with just your fingers.
Don't push the pistons in so far that the notched ring on the outside is buried inside the caliper. This ring is what graps the outer seal. If you do pop it in too far, use air to push the pistons back out.
Lastly, put the outer boots on, pressed down with your fingers.
THAT'S IT...now onto cosmetic refinishing.....
I chose to use 993 rears on this build, because while they are the same size as S4 rears, the pistons are a little bigger potentially giving a little more grip. They are pretty big brakes, all things considered. The first pic shows them next to a set of 996TT fronts (not for this build).
The cores look OK from the outside, but I always like to disassemble them and reseal them prior to doing anything cosmetic.
In order to disassemble them, you need air; with the bleeders still plugged in, take your air nozzle with rubber end and jam it in the fluid feed hole. Some notes:
1. The goal is to pop out all four pistons at once, but it is impossible. The pistons on the far side of the feed hole receive air a little later than those on the close side.
2. You do not want to use so much air that you blow them out at high speed. The pistons WILL become projectiles if you overdo this. Light, measured bursts!
3. Cover the whole assembly in paper towels. There WILL be brake fluid in there, and when it's hit with air, it becomes a fine, corrosive mist that likes car paint.
4. YOU ONLY USE AIR. Do not pry or channel-lock your pistons. Do not score the pistons!!!
5. DO NOT MIX UP THE PISTONS. Keep them matched to their respective bores!
First, use a wood block as a backstop, run some air through there to move all four pistons. This should free them up.
Then, I push one piston out at a time, and I GENTLY use C clamps to hold the other ones down. The C clamps are barely finger tight, they are just preventing the piston from traveling.
As soon as one piston pops, you lose your air pressure. Remove the outer seal, pop it back in, clamp it down lightly, move to the next one.
SOME OBSERVATIONS:
This caliper had some funky calcium-like goo inside, most likely old waterlogged brake fluid. Really nasty, not something you want on a race car. This is why you take your brakes apart!
Piston bores looked great, as did the pistons.
Next, time to remove the old inner seals. These come out with a razor blade or thin flat screwdriver. Again, careful not to scratch the bores!
Then, remove the outer seals, which are a mild press fit.
Now it's time to clean the whole caliper, and good. Use B12 and jam the nozzle into the bleeders, piston bores, and feed holes. Completely flush the caliper with carb cleaner and make sure its clean.
You use carb cleaner because it evaporates - follow it up with some air to help that evaporation along.
Once the caliper is clean and dry, put the inner seals in first.
Lightly lube with the FAINTEST trace of motor oil or brake fluid and insert. Brake seals are put in with your fingers, no tools of any kind are needed!
Then, slide in the pistons, making sure they match the bores you took them out of.
They will not slide in super easy, this is because there is no brake fluid on the other side. You can LIGHTLY use a c clamp to help them in, but most go in with just your fingers.
Don't push the pistons in so far that the notched ring on the outside is buried inside the caliper. This ring is what graps the outer seal. If you do pop it in too far, use air to push the pistons back out.
Lastly, put the outer boots on, pressed down with your fingers.
THAT'S IT...now onto cosmetic refinishing.....