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HIGHWAYMAN: Bringing the Devore 928 back from the dead

 
Old 12-13-2016, 11:31 AM
  #211  
Carl Fausett
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Mark had the opportunity to drive my race car on a couple occasions, and we playfully went back and forth about the e-brake. For him, its all about the weight savings.

I still have it on my car, mostly because we like to keep the car from rolling away in the pits, out of the trailer before we are ready, etc. It's just a convenience item for us.

Smiles were exchanged when he killed the car coming out of the pits and I signaled him to release the handbrake. He rolled his eyes...
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Old 12-13-2016, 05:04 PM
  #212  
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Default Rear Calipers

While the rear suspension is getting some love, it's time to address the rear calipers. First of all, the car had none, so I am not sure if that was just Devore favoring a front bias - you never know with Bob.

I chose to use 993 rears on this build, because while they are the same size as S4 rears, the pistons are a little bigger potentially giving a little more grip. They are pretty big brakes, all things considered. The first pic shows them next to a set of 996TT fronts (not for this build).

The cores look OK from the outside, but I always like to disassemble them and reseal them prior to doing anything cosmetic.

In order to disassemble them, you need air; with the bleeders still plugged in, take your air nozzle with rubber end and jam it in the fluid feed hole. Some notes:

1. The goal is to pop out all four pistons at once, but it is impossible. The pistons on the far side of the feed hole receive air a little later than those on the close side.

2. You do not want to use so much air that you blow them out at high speed. The pistons WILL become projectiles if you overdo this. Light, measured bursts!

3. Cover the whole assembly in paper towels. There WILL be brake fluid in there, and when it's hit with air, it becomes a fine, corrosive mist that likes car paint.

4. YOU ONLY USE AIR. Do not pry or channel-lock your pistons. Do not score the pistons!!!

5. DO NOT MIX UP THE PISTONS. Keep them matched to their respective bores!

First, use a wood block as a backstop, run some air through there to move all four pistons. This should free them up.

Then, I push one piston out at a time, and I GENTLY use C clamps to hold the other ones down. The C clamps are barely finger tight, they are just preventing the piston from traveling.

As soon as one piston pops, you lose your air pressure. Remove the outer seal, pop it back in, clamp it down lightly, move to the next one.

SOME OBSERVATIONS:

This caliper had some funky calcium-like goo inside, most likely old waterlogged brake fluid. Really nasty, not something you want on a race car. This is why you take your brakes apart!

Piston bores looked great, as did the pistons.

Next, time to remove the old inner seals. These come out with a razor blade or thin flat screwdriver. Again, careful not to scratch the bores!

Then, remove the outer seals, which are a mild press fit.

Now it's time to clean the whole caliper, and good. Use B12 and jam the nozzle into the bleeders, piston bores, and feed holes. Completely flush the caliper with carb cleaner and make sure its clean.

You use carb cleaner because it evaporates - follow it up with some air to help that evaporation along.

Once the caliper is clean and dry, put the inner seals in first.

Lightly lube with the FAINTEST trace of motor oil or brake fluid and insert. Brake seals are put in with your fingers, no tools of any kind are needed!

Then, slide in the pistons, making sure they match the bores you took them out of.

They will not slide in super easy, this is because there is no brake fluid on the other side. You can LIGHTLY use a c clamp to help them in, but most go in with just your fingers.

Don't push the pistons in so far that the notched ring on the outside is buried inside the caliper. This ring is what graps the outer seal. If you do pop it in too far, use air to push the pistons back out.

Lastly, put the outer boots on, pressed down with your fingers.

THAT'S IT...now onto cosmetic refinishing.....
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Old 12-13-2016, 05:06 PM
  #213  
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First picture is of all the crap that came out of the caliper....

Second pic shows the finished rebuild with new outer seals.
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Old 12-13-2016, 05:39 PM
  #214  
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Maybe those larger rear brakes will work for you but it didn't for me, even with my F50 14" brakes up front. It gave me way to much rear bias
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Old 12-13-2016, 05:42 PM
  #215  
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Really? Did you use an adjustable bias controller?

I wish I had talked to you about this before I bought them, although I can use them for another build.

So as far as I know the car has S4s in the front.....would you use S4 rears as well, or???

Also, the car has a Tilton cockpit adjustable valve if that helps. Thanks Mark
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Old 12-13-2016, 06:41 PM
  #216  
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Update:

Spoke to Mark, who advised against the larger rear brakes, so ordered some S4 cores for the rear.

Oh well, interestingly, the Turbo Targa came with no rear brakes (seems to be a pattern on projects I buy), so they are not a total waste.....

THANK YOU MARK!
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Old 12-14-2016, 10:11 AM
  #217  
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Nice write-up on re-sealing. Glad they won't go to waste.
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Old 12-14-2016, 12:29 PM
  #218  
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^ yeah and shameless plug for Mark who is having a half off all used parts sale until Xmas.....the new S4 cores were cheaper than the brake pads!
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Old 12-14-2016, 12:39 PM
  #219  
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While I wait for parts, I wanted to revisit the sway bar / handling characteristics thing we were talking about.

For those that don't want to go back a few pages, I opined that a full hard sway bar in front and a full soft (or no) sway bar in rear was a cure for oversteer as far as I know.

Opinions? Comments? Why does the car have so much oversteer in its modified state?
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Old 12-14-2016, 02:39 PM
  #220  
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Originally Posted by Catorce View Post
While I wait for parts, I wanted to revisit the sway bar / handling characteristics thing we were talking about.

For those that don't want to go back a few pages, I opined that a full hard sway bar in front and a full soft (or no) sway bar in rear was a cure for oversteer as far as I know.

Opinions? Comments? Why does the car have so much oversteer in its modified state?
really more questions than answers but most gutted "race" 928s are nose heavy , most run wider rear tires and wider rear track, all have various spring rates ( perhaps too stiff) , Anderson's last car had modified front spring shock location. Note that his prior car was fitted with your same wide body front....he ldismantled that one but sold the chassis. . Your wider front track (than most) changes so many things too.
. Anderson in my opinion tended to drive around any handling shortcomings. So your car now is unique and totally untested the only way to really sort it out is at a track .
. Obviously your Autocross set up will be different than that for the big tracks. You may like using some over steer either power induced or by lifting to rotate the car in slower tight corners.
​​​​​​​. If you want to be inundated with comments go over to the race forum where Kibort is still allowed to post.
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Old 12-14-2016, 04:42 PM
  #221  
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Jim,

Great insight here. You just brought up the untested part, which I had only half been paying attention to. That is a MAJOR factor in this build. I am sure Devore knew what he was doing to some extent, but he never got to actually TEST his theories.

As Mark said to me the other day, there will be a ton of things to fix and adjust even after the first drive, which confirms to me that AX is the best place to start even just to make the car a runner.

For sure it will behave different on the track; any car can be a champ at under 60mph......
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Old 12-15-2016, 12:27 AM
  #222  
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I think the stiff front/ stock or no rear swaybar combo will work well. I also think the car will put a lot of load on the rear tires because of the weight transfer from side to side, but then again alot of horsepower will do that too so whatever haha. If its anything like my z, it will be a little more dependent on good tires than other cars.
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Old 12-15-2016, 12:41 PM
  #223  
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Originally Posted by Catorce View Post
While I wait for parts, I wanted to revisit the sway bar / handling characteristics thing we were talking about.

For those that don't want to go back a few pages, I opined that a full hard sway bar in front and a full soft (or no) sway bar in rear was a cure for oversteer as far as I know.

Opinions? Comments? Why does the car have so much oversteer in its modified state?
Because you have pinned the Weissach. My car is the same and it feels like an old BMW E30 - it turns using the throttle rather than the steering wheel. Not necessarily a good thing, but not a bad thing either.
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Old 12-15-2016, 01:20 PM
  #224  
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Originally Posted by Cheburator View Post
Because you have pinned the Weissach. My car is the same and it feels like an old BMW E30 - it turns using the throttle rather than the steering wheel. Not necessarily a good thing, but not a bad thing either.
Very interesting.....but it my understanding that a functioning Weissach isn't compatible with ultra wide tires????

I don't mind the throttle steer. The Camaro has that characteristic; Could controllably drift around a complete autocross course in that car like Ken Block, LOL.
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Old 12-15-2016, 05:53 PM
  #225  
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Originally Posted by Catorce View Post
Very interesting.....but it my understanding that a functioning Weissach isn't compatible with ultra wide tires????

I don't mind the throttle steer. The Camaro has that characteristic; Could controllably drift around a complete autocross course in that car like Ken Block, LOL.
Joseph never pinned his and I think his car was always easier to drive than mine.
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