dr bob

Pete--

Cam timing is the first thought. You've verified the gears. Worth the pencil test on #1 cylinder to verify that the marks on the damper are still correct. It's a relatively quick test.

Ignition timing while not adjustable is easy to verify with a timing light.

Exhaust pluggage is a very real possibility. Symptom is higher idle intake pressure (read: less vacuum) , going up to atmospheric pressure with not much load. If the exhaust sample tubes are still there you can connect your vacuum/fuel pressure gauge there to see exhaust pressure directly; I honestly don't know what to look for as far as expected pressures though. The poor-man's test is to disconnect the exhaust at the header flanges and restest vacuum at idle. Neighbors will love you, but it's only for a minute.

Sorry we aren't in the neighborhood anymore or I'd come by to help.

Pete L

Hello all again

Dr Bob, good to hear from you.

1. I checked timing with a timing light, it s at 18 degrees ATDC at idle. That is to the left of the 0 mark on the damper. Reading did not change with the vacuum line being disconnected at the EZF (my bad on the LH comment).

2. Timing moved to 20 degrees BTDC (right side of the 0 mark on damper) at circa 2500 RPM with no load, should be around 35 I think based on the Porken maps I saw in another post.

3. Swapped out amps with a set of spares I had, no different in its running (note, is there any way to check them with a volt ohm meter?). Swapped out MAF - no difference

4. Pulled the drivers side valve cover, tensioner / pads and chain were in good condition.

5. Not hearing any strange sounds with stethoscope on passenger side so assuming the chain has not slipped or teeth broken on the cams

5.Pulled rotors and caps and covers again yesterday and everything is lining ups with car at TDC. BElt is perfect, no missing teeth. Rotor holes are almost in middle of the cam gears

6. Did smoke test on the vacuum system, had some smoke coming from drivers side rear of the valve cover or cam plugs but no visible smoke at MAF, ISC, vacuum hoses, at oil filler hoses, etc

So the question - I think - is what would cause the car to have its timing so far retarded ?






Car has X pipe, no cats to be pluged

zekgb

Verify that the damper markings are correct as Bob suggested.

GregBBRD

Yes.

dr bob

Pete--

Make sure your timing light is on #1 cylinder. Each cylinder is 22.5 crank degrees from the next and previous in ignition sequence.

Imo000

Disconnect the downpipe from the exhaust manifold and see if the power comes back. A ckogged catalytic can cause problems like this. Had this problem with a different car and 5he problem was a clogged converter.

zekgb

No cat on this car.

Landseer

Coil wires, coil end corrosion? Have seen them strangle one of these cars before.

Check also for threads about failure of the hose, internal to tank, that links the two fuel pumps. Fuel volume test may be needed.

Pete L

All

Appreciate the responses. Ran out of time yesterday.

Bob I will validate I used #1 with the timing light when I get covers and rotors back on

Coils and wires were checked, also tried a set of spare coils I have w/o any change in the running

Will also validate #1 is at TDC when damper is at 0 degrees as suggested

dr bob

Pete, for grins trace your vacuum lines and make sure you have the right hoses connected to the right ports. IIRC, the throttle body has taps for ported vacuum that's sensitive to airflow and throttle position, and also for manifold vacuum. Manifold vacuum should connect to fuel pressure regulator and dampers, and be the vacuum you are reading for your testing. Ported vacuum used to be used for ignition advance on distributor vacuum advance systems. Not sure if it's used to sense load in EZF cars, would need to check a diagram. Bottom line is that if you have your gauge (and fuel pressure regulator) connected to ported vacuum, you'd get the wrong readings and performance.

Brian'sIris

I agree with Dr Bob, check your vac line routing.

Regardless, you say there's a vacuum leak around the rear driver's cam seal, which you obviously need to fix. And you've had the cam cover off. Is the cover torqued down properly?

Manifold vacuum is generated by the pistons moving downward on the intake stroke, and has nothing to do with electronic ignition timing, wires, rotors, caps, etc., from what I understand anyway.

In other words, the only way to improve manifold vacuum is to fix the vacuum leak(s).

soontobered84

My friend, Glevis, bought a new to him '85 that never ran quite right. Very sluggish. He quit driving it due to concerns about the timing belt. I finally convinced him to let me swap the timing belt/water pump for him. While I was at it, I checked the cam gears. The passenger side cam gear was 12 degrees retarded and the driver side was 5 degrees advanced. Used the PK32'ver to reset the cams to 0 and the car is now amazingly perky.

YMMV