928S MN

I removed the reservoir because I was installing a new one, dropped the alternator, and took the pump off it's mounting. Only way I could figure out how to access those banjo bolts. I have an 85.

bureau13

A local 928er came over (thanks Peter!) and we came to the conclusion that the PS pump needs to come off to get at it. I've unbolted it and removed the belt...it's still held there somewhat, not sure if it's just the lines or what, but I can move it around enough to see the bolt. Haven't got a wrench on it yet before it started raining, but this seems to be the right approach. These "easy" jobs that you just can't seem to get the right tools in place...very frustrating!

Regarding the suggestion to raise the motor...I don't THINK that would help here, because it would raise the oil lines as well, but I'll take another look...

dr bob

Jeff--

Disconnect the battery if you haven't already.

Clean the area thoroughly, using your favorite detergent/degreaser/engine cleaner. You were going to do this anyway, might as well do it now so you get to work in a cleaner environment.

Unbolt (and support) the alternator. Coat-hanger or mechanic's wire, high enough so you aren't straining the wiring connections. Then unbolt the whole alternator/PS console with the pump still attached, allowing it to drop down to where you have easy access. You'll see how easy it is to separate the pump from the console, but that's not needed just to access the hose connections. You can disassemble without removing the alternator from the console, but it's easier IMO to get that weight safely supported separately while you work on the pump connections.

Remember that you had these parts loose and supported when you did the TB project, so you know how it all fits.

Use Your Torque Wrench religiously when reassembling. Console fasteners going into the block are non-forgiving of over-or under-tightening.

The "nut" in the rear main alternator mounting ear gets moved back (open) by inserting the main bolt into the ears in the normal way. Stop about 1/4" from bottoming the bolt. Then tap the bolt to the rear until the hex touches the front ear. The alternator will slide back up into place with just the right amount of clearance.

StratfordShark

That's a good idea on creating clearance at rear tab Dr Bob. I've always used a big clamp to squeeze the nut in, but bolt is much more ingenious!

Jerry Feather

If that is the case perhaps you could drain the oil and disconnect the oil lines and move them.

Tony

STEP 1: Remove engine.

bureau13

Lol NOOOO engine removal for me, thank you!

I thought about draining the oil and disconnecting those lines, but they're hard lines coming out of the block...still, something to think about...but no one else seems to have to do this. That tells me I'm probably screwing something up.

So I should remove the whole console and not just the PS pump...that was actually Peter's initial suggestion. Maybe that's what I should do then...

Taguid

Yes, just remove the whole cassette it is only 3 bolts and then you'll have all the room you need. I just did it while the engine was out but then I had to disconnect and reconnect because after the engine was in i had it routed below the oil cooler lines. This is the second time I have removed the engine in 6 months. It makes things so much easier to clean & R&R.

mark kibort

i was just about to post this when I saw your post! yes. its really simple. just drop the entire ps and alternator package with the3 bolts. heack, i dont even remove the drive belts. it all just comes down neatly.
then, work on the PS pump and then put the entire thing back up fan belts just go back on with a little help from a fat blade screwdriver and a crank of the engine.

bureau13

OK, that's my official plan of attack now. Not sure I'll be able to do anything significant until the weekend...well, I might take Dr. Bob's sage advice and get some degreaser up in there and hose it off good one night after work...

Kevin in Atlanta

Only caution I would add is to note the orientation of the hose connection on the pump and make sure it is correct before you tighten it down.

Brian'sIris

Or this is telling you the oil lines are not oriented properly...

In my '85 (assume the same as your 86.5), I had no problem with either banjo bolt (alternator removed). From your photo, it looks as if your oil lines are angled upwards too much, which is obstructing access to the banjos.

Do you have any record of those oil lines having been replaced?

bureau13

No records of this, but I know for a fact my motor mounts are compressed. Now that you mention it, that would cause the lines to travel upwards to meet their connection at the radiator. When Jerry mentioned jacking up the motor, I was thinking it would also jack up the PS pump, but it would have the effect of straightening out those lines. That actually does make sense...

Mrmerlin

if your crafty you will notice that with a long screwdriver you can simply unscrew the hose fitting.
the screwdriver needs to be long , you may have to remove the left coil
Snapon tools trucks sell them.

And it slides down the side of the engine to reach the clamp,
fit the new hose and clamp the same way so it can be tightened from the top.
OR turn the clamp and come in from the A arm to chassis

bureau13

Hmmm...I'm not picturing this. I don't recall a clamp at all, other than the bracket the holds the return and the high pressure lines?