Kevin in Atlanta

I tripped on to this: Liqui Moly 10w60

Liqui Moly 2024 Synthoil Race Tech GT1 10W-60 5L

$29.19

FAST 'N FREE

hacker-pschorr

Wow, awesome price. Not familiar with that oil so I did some poking around and a few things come to mind:

• Should we really be running 10w-60 on the street?

• Their data sheet is posted, but no mention of ZDDP:
  https://pim.liqui-moly.de/pidoc/P000342/1390-SynthoilRaceTechGT1SAE10W-60-33.0-us.pdf
  Which contains the following information:
  • Tested safe with catalytic converters - This usually means a lower amount of Zinc than our cars were originally designed for
  • LIQUI MOLY recommends this oil for BMW M-series cars without turbocharged engines. - this means it's a competitor to the Castrol 10w-60 Supercar oil which a few sites claim also has the less than ideal amount of ZDDP

Anyone thinking of using this oil, I would e-mail Liqui Moly and get a definite answer on the ZDDP levels. Some companies will not give this out, but in the case of Valvoline when I contacted them about their non VR-1 oil they simply replied: "We do not recomend this oil for your 928"

ptuomov

My blue engine has synthetic Liquid Moly 10W-60 in it. Nothing negative to say so far.

hacker-pschorr

To be fair, as I'm sure you know, the only area where ZDDP is a concern is the camshaft lobes and to a much lesser extent the lifter itself.

With stock camshaft grinds, stock valve springs etc....it may not be as big of an issue as we make it out to be, and such issues may take tens of thousands of miles to show the issue.

It's just good to be informed.

ptuomov

The blue engine has Elgin-Morton 65-6 camshafts, INA lightweight flat lifters, and PAC beehive springs set to custom loads. Last time they were checked, they looked right. The oil also doesn't have metal in it. There's an oil change happening soon, at which point the filter will get opened and an oil sample will go to analysis. Will report back.

My opinion on ZDDP is that it's become a magic buzzword and people incorrectly believe that more is better. Also, the source of pushrod engine "performance" camshaft and lifter issues is usually something else than the oil. For our engines, I'd be more worried about the lobe-lifter geometry than oil ZDDP content, for example.

I think this Liqui Moly has about 950 ppm or something of ZDDP. Probably added there by the marketing department. Hard to sell oil for old car enthusiasts without ZDDP...

Courtshark

Hey! Look at this dead horse over here! Smells delicious.

Have been doin' some oil learnin' this mornin', thanks to a minor freakout when I cracked open a sealed bottle of M1 15W-50 and the contents had turned RED, like ATF red. I've never seen that before. But per the interwebs, turns out this is somewhat normal, inasmuch as oil can start to oxidize in the bottle, even a sealed one; but like artichokes, it contains lots of yummy antioxidants, and is not a performance issue. I may start drinking it and will report back.

Anyway, I used up all of my 15W-50, and in my hunt for more in my garage, I found two things: several bottles of an oil I typically use for extended track weekends (BG 20W-50), and a jug of LiquiMoli 10W-60 I forgot I had from when I owned my BMW M6 (507hp V10). The BG oil was great on the track; basically never burned even half a quart despite running at 6k rpms for extended periods and in very warm conditions.

I have not tried the LM 10W-60 in my 928 yet, but I will do so when I change my oil after my upcoming track weekend. It was, however, fantastic in the M6, FWIW. 'Spensive, though, at least the last time I checked.

fossberry

Is that what I could smell lol.
In NZ where ambient temps typically cycle between 0°C in the winter to +30°C in the summer (extremely optimistic for Welly lol) I use Penrite 10 tenths racing 10W-40 oil, a PAO & Ester shear free one with 2200ppm zinc and importantly a HTHS viscosity of 4.49 @ 150°C. 8 years of use and still going strong.

https://www.penriteoil.com.au/produc...-100-pao-ester

Alan

Amsoil ZROD 20w-50, After lots of experimentation with all the usual suspects - it seems to handle high heat conditions better (re: oil pressure) than others I've tried and that is very important here - especially this time of year!. This leads to slightly lower oil usage which is also good.

Alan

GerritD

Marly Semi Synthetic 10W40
advantages:
Less fuel consumption
Very good viscosity @ low temp
Holding viscosity @ high temp
high resistance against aging

specs:
API SJ/SH/CF/EC
CCMC G5/PD2
ACEA A3-98/B3-98
VW 500.00/505.00 (11/92)
MB 229.1
GM 6049-M

I live in an area with moderate climate so no need for higher viscosity.

Bigfoot928

Royal purple HPS 20w50

bureau13

Brad Penn 20w50. I used to use Royal Purple HPS 20w50, which I liked just fine, but at least lately has been quite a bit more expensive.

Why? It's the proper weight for the car in my South Florida climate, it has what I've read is sufficient ZDDP or whatever it's called, and a number of people whose knowledge I respect have said good things about it.

M. Requin

Royal Purple HPS 20W-50, which I changed to from Valvoline "Racing" 20W-50 after reading an Australian (can't remember the sponsoring club) wear test.

PorKen

Just filled up the supercharged 89 S4 with LiquiMoli 10W-60 as I feared the old oil was compromised by over-fueling (failed FMU diaphragm = 80psi FP at idle).

The 10W-60 new fill makes 2.x bar oil pressure at hot idle vs. 1.x with the as-delivered oil. (It runs hot; small fans, no fan shroud.)

Mongo

Still using Mobil 1 15w-50 with Rislone ZDDP additive. No complaints

Babado

Previous owner used the same, I continued with it, original 56.5k and counting.