locked out, help please
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locked out, help please
Im locked out of the passenger door. I has just replaced the broken latch with a new part. With the door open, i tested that I could release the door jamb lock with both the external and internal handles. with the door open, I tested that the **** lock would prevent either door handle from releasing the door jamb lock. All looked fine and then replaced the door panel and I closed the door. The lock went into a lock mode and refuses to release the lock so that either handle can open the door. With my hand inside the center panel opening, I can urge the door locking motor and gears to go thru a cycle but the lock stem never raises all the way and trying to jerk the inside handle during this process never is successful. Wow.
Any advise as to how to release the door lock is SO MUCH appreciated. Bear in mind the only access I have is via the center panel opening.
Any advise as to how to release the door lock is SO MUCH appreciated. Bear in mind the only access I have is via the center panel opening.
Drifting
Joined: Dec 2014
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From: Michigan
Try removing the complete twist locking device on inside of door...**** and plastic detail ring/cover (that turns onto the lock mechanism beneath the ****). Sometimes if you get that plastic detail ring/cover to tight, it restricts the lock from working. The detail ring/cover should be just snug against the door panel.
Brian.
Brian.
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I removed the inside **** cover and it made no difference.
The symptom is that using the key, central lock or inside ****, the stem does not raise quite far enough up. Pulling on the inside door handle produces initial resistance and then the linkage slips and the door won't open. Pushing on the bottom on the stem rod from inside doesn't help much either. For some reason, the the inside handle linkage doesn't have sufficient access to release the opener mechanism in the door jamb.
Also, looking down thru the window seal crevasse into the top of the door lock inside the door; there is lock mechanism movement when I operate the inside door ****, or the key lock. But it isn't enough to allow either door handles to actuate the mechanism in the door jamb.
The symptom is that using the key, central lock or inside ****, the stem does not raise quite far enough up. Pulling on the inside door handle produces initial resistance and then the linkage slips and the door won't open. Pushing on the bottom on the stem rod from inside doesn't help much either. For some reason, the the inside handle linkage doesn't have sufficient access to release the opener mechanism in the door jamb.
Also, looking down thru the window seal crevasse into the top of the door lock inside the door; there is lock mechanism movement when I operate the inside door ****, or the key lock. But it isn't enough to allow either door handles to actuate the mechanism in the door jamb.
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Battery is disconnected. I have very limited access, but I need to know if there is a particular "magic" linkage that I might can disconnect to allow the inside door handle to engage with the door jamb mechanism
Drifting
Joined: Dec 2014
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From: Michigan
Did you try turning the drivers side door lock-unlock ****. I had a similar issue as you, after buying my 84, and couldn't open the drivers door with my key or ****. Kind of remember turning the opposing doors lock ****, pushing the center control button and it started working again. It was kind of doing what "drbob" is suggesting, I think, like the lock motor wants to keep it locked regardless of anything else.
Brian.
Brian.
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Nordschleife Master
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From: TX
I recall trying to open my driver's door while the mechanism was trying to open the door. Ended up bending something and needing to replace the door handle (928 Specialists came in handy).
If you are really stuck I also recall a post discussed here regarding a panel underneath/inboard the driver's door you can pop up to access the **** to open the door.
If you are really stuck I also recall a post discussed here regarding a panel underneath/inboard the driver's door you can pop up to access the **** to open the door.
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The panel pop solution is for folks who have locked keys in the car and need to get the door unlocked from the inside. Method assumes that turning the **** will unlock the door. OP's challenge is that turning the **** does not release the latch. He's inside the car, has access to the door interior working only through the middle trim panel of the door card. It's a bit of a challenge.
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When the battery is connected, the Locks tends to cycle up and then down when the problematic lock Starts out as "up". I've tried lots of central lock/****/key lock action combinations. I think I need somehow to disengage the lock inside the door if it's possible.
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The thing that would help get me out of the "hopelessly stuck" position would be if I knew what locking action prevents the internal handle from unlocking the door. Then maybe I can disable what is preventing opening the door latch
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I'll explain the necessary gymnastics later that was necessary to open the door.
The persistent problem is that when I bolt the jamb latch to the door and force the jamb "closed", then after locking the door , the door lock is binding on the jamb latch and won't unlock . The lock mechanism swings perfectly with the jamb latch is off the door jamb. Ideas ???
The persistent problem is that when I bolt the jamb latch to the door and force the jamb "closed", then after locking the door , the door lock is binding on the jamb latch and won't unlock . The lock mechanism swings perfectly with the jamb latch is off the door jamb. Ideas ???
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Looking at the action of the lock as it swings back and forth from the view point of the hole that the door edge latch would bolt onto, I can see the obstruction. A paddle shaped part of the mechanism swings back and forth along the inside of the door edge. As it swings it should simply cover or uncover the hole that the door edge latch stem would reside. There is a part of the "paddle" that swings over and impacts the door edge latch stem. I think this is a result of the rod connecting between the inner lock and the paddle being too long. I'll investigate this evening and try to provide pictures.
The take-away from all this: ensure to test your lock before you close the door. Dont do as I did and fail to FULLY engage the lock during your test. This test would have failed for me and saved me a lot of grief. Lastly; IF you are locked out, bear in mind that you have finger access via the center door panel AND AS IMPORTANT you have some visual and lever (screw driver) access via the window seal on the door above the lock. It's via this access that I was able to put a screw driver in and help lever the lock paddle into the unlock position. Yes, it took many tries .
The take-away from all this: ensure to test your lock before you close the door. Dont do as I did and fail to FULLY engage the lock during your test. This test would have failed for me and saved me a lot of grief. Lastly; IF you are locked out, bear in mind that you have finger access via the center door panel AND AS IMPORTANT you have some visual and lever (screw driver) access via the window seal on the door above the lock. It's via this access that I was able to put a screw driver in and help lever the lock paddle into the unlock position. Yes, it took many tries .
