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I have a couple more sets of parts coming back from the anodizer tomorrow if anyone else would like to give the new setup a try. It will probably be the last batch I run for some time.
You can certainly use stainless instead though, just stick to the 10mm OD and ~5mm ID.
Also, keep in mind while the shifter is technically infinitely adjustable, there are limits with the stock front shifter link and ball-cup. If you increase the spacer height too much, it will apply too much pressure on the ball-cup and pop it off the post. This is dependent on the condition of the ball cup and other factors, but keep that in mind when going for extreme reductions in shifter travel.
You can certainly use stainless instead though, just stick to the 10mm OD and ~5mm ID.
Also, keep in mind while the shifter is technically infinitely adjustable, there are limits with the stock front shifter link and ball-cup. If you increase the spacer height too much, it will apply too much pressure on the ball-cup and pop it off the post. This is dependent on the condition of the ball cup and other factors, but keep that in mind when going for extreme reductions in shifter travel.
Happy experimenting.
+1...I just installed Hans' shifter today (freaking awesome Hans )..and had to do a bit of forcing ..I put pretty long spacers on the bottom part....I have Carl's steel ball cup up front..and it's holding...for now. It was tough to put in..I used a good strong screwdriver to separate the rods enough to get it started..then it did actually slide on without trouble...
I essentially went all out: longest lower half and shortest upper half...it's a little stiff to move more than likely because I am wearing new territory on the ball cup but it's shifting just fine and I'd be out driving it instead of talking to you jokers if it wasn't 100 degrees outside! It has air conditioning-ish..but it tends to die a lot when you take your foot off the pedal..I can adjust a couple things to stop that..but I prefer to run windows down...highway cruising is great with AC....hota$$ing around town in 2nd gear is windows down only
I had another batch of parts made, and they are fresh out of anodizing this morning. I have parts in stock to build either the P9-MS01 shift levers or the P9-MS02 pivot clamps.
Let me make a shameless plug for Hans' product here. :-)
I have the full set-up (pivot clamp and adjustable height shifter lever) on my 91 GT, and it has I think a great feel! So much so that I am also installing one on my 90 GT after having done the TT only about 5.000 miles ago.
Anybody who is on the fence about this and likes the feeling of a precise shift won't be disappointed in this upgrade. ! Thanks, Hans! :-)
I had another batch of parts made, and they are fresh out of anodizing this morning. I have parts in stock to build either the P9-MS01 shift levers or the P9-MS02 pivot clamps.
If you want the ultimate short shifter this is it. I've had various short shifters over the past 20 years and this is by far the best. Good luck Hans!
I have had a few different short shifters which all made shifting like driving a 50's 1 ton truck. This unit is the best. A few things in car you touch and feel every time you drive it and this is the best bit made. If I had to choose between a good stereo or this shifter...I would take the shifter hands down!
I have been digging out some of my old projects recently, and I went back and updated an old shifter design. Some of you may notice some of my old design in there, as well as some influences from past designs.
The shift lever itself is completely compatible with stock linkage, and can be installed without dropping the torque tube. What makes it different from any of my previous designs, or any that I am aware of, is that it allows for shortening the actual lever in 10mm increments from stock height to 30mm shorter. The pivot point can be adjusted from stock to any increase in ratio in 10% increments by using machined 2.5mm spacers (stock pivot distance is roughly 25mm). I measure that you may start hitting the torque tube at any pivot point beyond 50% reduction, but I will need to test this in the real world. It may be possible to add additional adjustment by raising the front pivot point. It would be possible to do this with similar shims by separating the bearing block from the clamp in the front--rod removal system as shown.
There are some other small updated, including replacing the stock shifter pivot bushings with uprated Igus bearings for increased isolation and less friction.
I am printing test parts today to check clearances and make sure everything works as intended. I will keep everyone posted as to progress.
If all works out well, i will machine a test level and toss it in the GTS-4 for some real world testing.
Here is the webviewer model for those who are interested in taking an in-depth look:
The design evolved a bit with time, but I do try and make a run for people a couple times a year.
The as-produced version is different in that it allows vertical adjustment of the bearing car, and I am using a double-row bearing... heck its all different since that early design.
Thanks for the memory though. I hadn't thought of where it started in a long time.
07-03-2017, 10:47 AM
)..and had to do a bit of forcing ..I put pretty long spacers on the bottom part....I have Carl's steel ball cup up front..and it's holding...for now. It was tough to put in..I used a good strong screwdriver to separate the rods enough to get it started..then it did actually slide on without trouble...
