For the past while I've been getting the "stop lamp" warning occasionally; usually it goes away the next time I step on the brakes. Then it will come back. Then it goes away. etc.

Could this be from loose bulb connectors, corrosion in there? Or I've read something about the infamous "bulb controller."

 

Does it come on only when you have the brakes on?
If so, connection/corrosion problem in the light circuit?
If not, perhaps a loose electrical connection or worn ignition switch resetting the warning computer brake check?

 

Just replace all 3 bulbs for the brake lights with new correct versions & clean the sockets out when you do this. As bulbs age they can go out of spec - a cheap thing to rule out, but poor bulb connections are a more likely culprit, this way you cover both.

Alan

 

Hi Alan,Does this mean you can't use led's in brake lights? I also have this problem with new led's from woody peck as listed on rennlist.

 

I've read on here before that since LEDs don't use as much power the car thinks that they're not working so you always have the warning light.

 

LED's will always trigger the bulb check because it relies on measuring the current drawn by the bulbs when they are activated, LED's have much lower current - which the controller then interprets as failed bulbs. You can add a parallel resistance, but this means if the LED's do burn out then the controller will never be able to tell, you also lose all the efficiency benefit of LED's.You can bypass the bulb controller, or disable its warnings. Technically it should be possible to adjust the bulb controller series resistances so it will work with LED's but LED's vary somewhat so you'd have to always use the same types and then you would not be able to revert to incandescents.

Alan

 

I have the exact same issue with the stop lamp warning. Ordered Deoxit per Stan's (Mrmerlin) recommendation. I'll do the cleaning/bulb changes when I replace my bumper shocks and let you know if it fixed the problem.

 

I've had the same issue intermittently for a year or so. And from my experience with my own '82 the bulb sockets would be step one, but if that still doesn't resolve it:

My issue was the pressure switches on the master cylinder. One of the switches (that i'd replaced already, failed) and the reservior float had gotten stuck. So one half of the master cylinder was starting to pull in air, so when the rear half of the reservoir ran out of fluid I lost half the brakes.

Ended up replacing the whole master cylinder, and doing the "dreaded blue hose job" whilst in there.

No more bulb check issues.

 

You are getting great advice from Wally and Alan, especially the point about precisely when and under what conditions the "stop light" warning actually appears.

This was my experience: https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...long-post.html

 

Another great thread to add to the conversation. I like your methodical "less is more approach" to ultimately solving the problem.

 

I have traced the problem to the high-five light on the hatch. I have not opened it up yet, but I can get rid of the warning by reaching back and tapping the case of this lamp. So, probably bad contact in the bulb socket there.

 

Here's an update for you. I opened up the high-five lamp case and found a bit of a mess. Although the bulb was replaced a couple years ago, no good attention to the system was paid at the time. I found that the bulb socket was not properly seated into the case, and the female wire connectors were not crimped tightly onto the connecting tabs for the socket. The wires almost fell off when I opened the case. So I fixed those issues and it seems to be doing fine with no odd warnings driving around today.

The little things are important!