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87s4 window regulator/roller

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Old Aug 1, 2016 | 10:37 AM
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Default 87s4 window regulator/roller

87s4 aut...just some tips who venture into the door for whatever reason. for me, on one side my regulator plastic arm roller broke and my regulator bolts were loose so i bent the arm. on other side...window doesnt work put in new motor and works for a month then nothing. if i go in there again remove motor and put back it will work again until next "no work"situation.

removing window regulator:

for me, breaking down the door and removing door panel is second nature...there are other stickys for that. once you get the door panel inner removed, you will see that window regulator has several mounting bolts....and there is a black vertical bar where glass rides up and down on.

that bar has to be removed or laid down to remove the regulator through the bigger hole near strikers.

to remove the bar, there are allen bolts for the bar, and then there are 2 white plastic mounts for the window glass one has bolts going into the glass and other one has bolts screwing upwards so bolt head is facing down.

Note: you do need the motor still plugged in and so you can activate the window up and down to position right height to remove these bolts.
the alternative if motor is broke, is to remove mounting bolts for motor and disconnect plug on top of motor, then slide out the roller to free the motor. then you can have assistant lower or raise glass manually. also you can use tape to hold glass in place or use a piece of wood...or both.

after removing these bolts, the black arm is held at bottom on a nub...so it can be lifted up and down....now you have clearance to remove the regulator through that hole with bar out of the way and window all the way up.

*note: i was replacing the white plastic mounts for window and ran into problem with the smaller plastic one with the bolts vertical. it would not angle correctly on the black bar....i dont know if this part is different for right and left doors etc and/or they need to be filed down to match the contour of the bar.
this is an issue that caused me significant delays in the process....so additional research is necessary. this plastic piece has a notch in it for play, but i could not get it flush with mounting plate. it is possible that there are different parts for drivers door and passenger door....WARNING....anyway i had to reuse my old part but i make that notation....
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Old Aug 1, 2016 | 10:40 AM
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now as to reason why my passenger door window doesnt work is beyond me...it seems my motor gets binded up and when i reopen motor and replace it works again but makes a machine like sound....
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Old Aug 1, 2016 | 11:12 AM
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For your passenger door problem you may find one of the teeth on the idler pinion inside the motor unit has broken.

To get the actuator mechanism out you do not need to remove the black guide bar. You unbolt the motor from the quadrant plate and then the actuator arm can be removed- it is tight but quite doable.

Rgds

Fred
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Old Aug 1, 2016 | 11:21 AM
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on the passenger side....when i depress switch is hear nothing, dead silence....but its not the switch since is put in good one and try it and get same result.

to test if i am getting 12v at motor....plug in leads in both slots with switch depressed?
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Old Aug 1, 2016 | 11:29 AM
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qualifyer on earlier post....

i may be wrong but i think the drivers side and passenger side door slots, are different. meaning the door slots on drivers are smaller and therefore the bar must be removed to remove regulator even if you remove motor. on passenger side as i recall there is more space. if someone can chime in who know it would help others who venture on this path....
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Old Aug 1, 2016 | 12:00 PM
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Space on both doors is the same.
Did you use a new or used motor?
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