Hi Guys

I am looking for tips on fitting headers to my S4 before I begin the job.

I will be using a 4 post ramp to get right under the car and I wanted to check what I will need to remove to get the job done

I assume the std headers come out from below and the new tubular one go back in the same way?

Any tips would be great.

Thanks
Marti

 

OEM come out from below..some of the nuts are problematic, but they do.

What goes in that way, depends what you purchased.

 

You will need to raise the Engine up about 1/2 to 1 inch unless you have fitted shorter Studs in the heads, I just removed a pair of Devek Level II's and had them re-coated in Hi-temp ceramic.

Also you may want to consider different Heat Shield

Edit: I used shorty and curved 13mm and some sockets w/ swivels too. There is a nut on each side (2 and 6 IIR) that will bind into the header so start all before snugging them

Dave

 

Gees, you completely missed having to drop the steering rack, remove the side supports for the bottom cross member and removing the air supply metal pipe just to get the OEM headers out.

 

I tried to install some stock exhaust manifold and could not get them on, found the ^^^ above ^^^ was in my way too.

 

This can easily turn into a big job. Before you even start, look and feel that all exhaust studs are there, if not they are probably broken off and you'll have to pull the engine to properly extract them.

 

i just had to loosen every single nut to get the one removable pipe back on.
had i dropped all the nuts, that would have brought the headers down in a sec. so, sounds like yours is an all in one type, so its hard to get it in there. cant even imagine it on the driver side , but maybe this is a new design that allows for it.
whos headers?

anyway, say you can get them up there. the swivel 13 is your friend. a micro ratcheting 13 open, box end is good, as welll as a shorty 13 box /open end wrench. the higher the car is, the better, but i think jack stands mid height will be best. any higher and you need to be on a crawler . any higher than that, and you may as well be on a lift to be standing and reaching up.

passenger side is a piece of cake.

then comes the rear muffler adaptation.... what are you using for cat or cat replacement and rear pipe and muffler?

 

With the headers I bought from 928 Motorsport (32v) I am having to modifty the last bend on all of the pipes as the merged collector hits off the gearbox!



The bend it too tight and angled up too much, if they only had 1 or 2 degrees different then no problem

 

?? The gearbox is at the back of the car... I don't think the header collectors are hitting the gearbox...

Do you mean the lower bell-housing? Please explain.

This pic was from one of our mock-ups for fitment trials...

 

Because the merged collectors are bigger than the old standard collectors, the 32v headers now touch the lower bell housing in one corner as shown below. There is a little flange on the lower bell housing provided to help pry it off. It needs to be removed. It's easy to do.

You should have received a set of instructions in the box with the headers that show you to simply trim that flange off to get the clearance you need.

Here are some pics to help. There is no need to modify the headers at all.

 

Here is a link to the instructions:

http://www.928motorsports.com/instal...%20Headers.pdf

Please let me know if there is anything else you need.

 

There are two different style and size bellhousing. Old one for double disk clutch and another for newer single disk. Without reading about these headers and in what MY's they are meant to work etc. just pointing out this bellhousing change can cause problems.

 

we have found no issues with either bell-housing. Tested them both. Of course, we tested the 16v headers with the dual-disc bell-housing and we tested the 32v headers with the single-disc bell housing...

this is the only issue we did find, and not all lower bell housing have that little ear on them. only some.
remove the ear - problem solved.

 

What about the M8 fastener in that same corner? Does it get left out?

 

Your choice.

We usually leave that M8 fastener off - it just isnt worth the hassle. The lower bell housing only holds the clutch slave cylinder (the starter is mounted independently on the 32v cars). Holding the lower bell on by 4 of the original 6 fasteners works just fine. The 16v cars do not have this issue.