scottpeterd

Rob,

Looking at the great diagram for the EGR you sent, I missed the part about the EGR amplifier.

I knew about the vacuum amplifier. Didn't think it was just for the EGR.

As I've removed the EGR, I wonder if I should delete the vacuum amp as well.

I wonder what else it controls?

Cheers

GlenL

I've just taken all of this off a '79. Corroded and ugly and not working, I'd wager. I've plugged the fitting at the plenum with a piece of sheet metal trapped below the plate after cutting of the tube. (That'll make sense once you've got the tube out of the plenum.) Still working on the exhaust valve part. That'll be a piece of 3/8" steel.

For the fitting on the back of the heads, I suggest getting the right plugs. There are two already on the front of the heads and the rear ports take the same plugs. (Heads are symmetrical and aren't L/R until installed.) They are on all 16v heads. I tried making them for another engine and they leaked. I suppose parts are scarce in Uganda, but 928 International ships worldwide.

crushingday

Sorry I missed ya'. I just saw this. PM me your email and let me know if you are on facebook. I am. -
Ross Tyrie

drooman

Reviving this since i just spent an afternoon cleaning 40some years worth of tar out of a 78 US intake system. This system is completely intact on the car and I'd like to keep in "intact" We have no emissions for pre-obd2 vehicles where I am and I don't want that EGR valve to open again. Have to admit that the "exhaust back pressure" portion of the system is eluding my understanding here.

What is the most unobtrusive / stealth way to disable the valve, including the backpressure actuation... I suspect (hope) some vacuum valve disconnects/ blocks will do it? Would like to re-activate the system in the future if required.