leiplouis79

I can't get the fuel line fittings/hoses (from hard lines) to budge in engine bay. I've soaked them in PO several times now. What did they F'n put loctite sealer on them - this is B.S.. There's fuel in there- so can't use heat - I saw someone dremeled in place- don't see that as a good idea with fuel as well. Any special ideas on tools would be appreciated - sorry for the attitude - but kind of pissed.

soontobered84

Use line wrenches and yes, they are tight for good reason. Good luck!

SeanR

I use a combination of line wrenches, brute strength and swear words for the top ones. For the lower connections I start that in the reverse order from under the car. Most times I can get a longer wrench on the connection, bracing the wrench against the header and am able to put more force on the rotating connection. They will come off, take your time and expect to smash your fingers/hand at least once while under there.

leiplouis79

Appreciate the vote of confidence. I feel I've already put a severe amount of force on them- afraid I'm going to snap the hard lines or crack them. Never had this issue with any other car - crazy. Does anyone know if ??? anyone sells those fittings/ferrules. Thought about cutting the lines with a tubing cutter --- re-flaring and just making the soft lines a little longer??

SeanR

As long as you are counter holding and not stripping the hex headed connections you are fine. They have not been off the car in over 37 years. I would not cut and re-flare.

hacker-pschorr

These kinds of fittings should not be this tight, it's from years of dirt and corrosion. I recently replaced the lines in my 80, with the cam tower off it's a lot easier. Once apart it took a considerable amount of cleaning so the fittings could spin freely on their own line. I didn't want any resistance when re-fitting the rebuilt line.

GlenL

Use two good wrenches, preferably flare-nut wrenches, and then lever between them or clamp them together. Feels like 100s of foot-pounds but eventually they'll come.

mark kibort

leverage and good fiting wrenches are your friends. quick burst of torque! (hmmm, ,power?) that might break it free. good luck!

Rob Edwards

I had a lot of struggles with the lines on Minerva, can't remember who pointed them out but I ended up picking up a 17 and 19mm version of the line wrenches shown below from AGS. The crescent end is nice 'cause you can double up on it with a closed-end wrench to get more leverage.

http://agscompany.com/product/line-w...pen-flex-19mm/

SeanR

Oh I like those. Got to pick some of them up. thanks Rob.

The Deputy

Rubber Fuel Line Removal

Took off the rubber fuel lines along the passenger side inner fender.

I will say one thing...those fuel lines were never going to vibrate loose...lol.

They must have had an ape install them at the factory. Thought my 84's were on tight...but these made those seem like child's-play.


Yep, and for the most part...I don't believe the penetrating oil did much (besides the outstanding headache upon start up). Once they came a part, there wasn't a trace of oil down within the fittings. In comparison, the male ended fuel line comes a part rather easily...it's that female ended line that takes much more force and verbal abuse. The key was...tighting the fitting first...and using a set of line wrenches that go completely around the fittings.

http://agscompany.com/product/line-w...lex-16mm-17mm/

http://agscompany.com/product/line-w...lex-18mm-19mm/

It takes some doing, but once you remove the air pump tubing and valve assembly...you can get these wrenches in there around the fittings. But, even with these wrenches...the female ended line wouldn't twist a part...until I tried tightening them again. I'd tried tightening them with normal line wrenches, which flexed to much (and I'm talking Snap on and Mac wrenches...not cheap stuff) and the wrench jaws opened up ever-so-slightly under the pressure I was using. With the Xforce wrench and its super positive grip, I was able to feel movement while tightening the fitting...and once it tightened ever-so-slightly...it spun right off after loosening it...and I mean with my fingers.

........................................................................ ...................................

There was absolutely no corrosion, crud or rust on my steel fuel lines. They were just tighter than ****. The only thing that worked was the wrenches I posted above...and tightening them slightly. Once I tighten them just a bit...they spun off the other direction with my fingers (once loosening again slightly). Key is to get the male fuel line out of the way first, making more room for the other.

In order to use these wrenches on the steel lines top-side...you have to remove the air-pump tube and valve (which unbolts from the tower cover). Underneath, nothing special had to happen.

Brian.

leiplouis79

I tried again cut a 19mm down to get a pipe on it and it still isn't even attempting to move. line is starting to bend downward from me trying to put force on it squeezing it. I like to smack me some German right now Oh I forgot I'm German. Just ordered some of those wrenches - next is dynamite - a splash of Nitro G - the bombing of Stuttgart - Oh I'm just rambling - I can't feel my arms and I have a permanent indent in my palm.

Hold On

My Technique also, also used some 90 degree open ends on extensions. As I recall they are called crowsfoot wrenches. I also had to work some from the top and some from the bottom. Smashing you hand is a given !! lol

jpitman2

My experience FWIW....damaged the feed pipe from the back, replaced it, without access to a hoist. Removed the old pipe with flex hose at the front still connected, as I replaced the flex hose as well. I could not see any way to disconnect the hoses in place. No matter what I tried I could not lace the new pipe into place and up into engine bay. In the end I cut the feed line maybe a foot back from where it bends up into bay; fitted the new flex hose to the short front section of pipe, fitted the rear pipe section into place and secured it, and joined the two with a compression fitting from Pirtek. easy to reconnect the flexes to the engine hard lines up top. Bridged the pump relay for 1/2 hour to check for leaks - one small one easily fixed. Been fine for several years now. Also covered the flex lines with Firesleeve (heat resistant tubing, silicon and fibreglass) to resist exhaust manifold heat. Considering the age of the car, and that it did 10 years in Saudi the pressure hose was in excellent condition, no signs of cracks.
jp 83 Euro S AT 56k

docmirror

You can use heat, but you can't use open flame.

http://www.2daydeliver.com/product_d...0#.V1Ii8PkrKM8

Don't set the temp over the flash point of fuel. Heat the outer fitting as much as you can.