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It won't "spin". You should be able to turn it with a reasonable amount of effort. Keep in mind that you are opening the valves against the spring pressure.
When I did mine, the passenger side jumped forward a couple teeth (typical). I used a wrench on the gear to turn it back to get the belt on correctly. I could have just turned the gear by hand, but it was far easier to use the wrench (good handle, better leverage, got my hand out of the way to put the belt on, ect).
And anyone who thinks that their experience gives them an accurately "calibrated wrist" is fooling themselves.
I have a very good friend who owns a shop. One of his techs is very conscientious about using a torque wrench (and has his calibrated fairly often).
The shop owner claimed to have a "calibrated wrist" because he's been turning wrenches for 30+ years.
So we bet him. A variety of fasteners tightened to spec. Including a set of the same size repeated a bunch of times. He tightened them to what he thought was right, then we put the TQ wrench on them. None were to spec, most were over 10% off (both directions), and the set of identical ones varied by about 25%.
To be fair, the WSM instructs turning to 45 degrees to remove the belt, but then turns back to TDC on 15-107 to set the timing on installation, with a "Note" about damage to the valves from moving camshafts.
But with the $200 valves in the S3, I'll be setting my timing at 45, too.
I was able to crack all of the top (visible) cam tower allen bolts. I am going to order a set of long socket allen from Amazon. I am hoping that it is 10mm (I am not near my car).
It can be difficult to fit a allen socket on the lower bolts with the ratchet. With this wrench, you can slide a regular allen wrench through the ratching part and go that route.
I'd send the Neiko tools back before you break them, injure yourself, or strip the hex heads. They're nothing but the worst chinese crap. As someone on Garage Journal remarked - HF quality at 2 to 3 times the price....
I'd get Carl's tool, or maybe something like this: http://www.kctoolco.com/wiha-hex-1-4...mm-p/77192.htm Do a search on their site, I think you can buy an individual long 6mm hex socket (I bought a set to use on my carbon fiber bike).
Edit: here's a link to an individual 6mm long hex socket, $5.83 plus shipping. http://www.kctoolco.com/wiha-hex-1-4...mm-p/77148.htm Oh, and by the way, the hex is held into the socket with a set screw. So, if 6" is too long, you can pop it out, cut it to the length you need and just pop it back in the socket.
I was able to get all 6 caps and all 12 cam tower bolts out using normal allen keys with a bit driver on the short end for leverage. Now, all bolts are out, but the tower is not moving, any tips to get it to release? Does the rear cam cover have to come off?
Do a compression check.....before opening it up. Helps narrow the potential issues.
I suspected a broken camshaft which is why I recommended the compression test....
You could also get a pair of 78-79 camshafts and get a bit more power
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