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TB: Use Old Timing Marks?

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Old 04-13-2016, 02:10 PM
  #31  
sprfrkr
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Originally Posted by Imo000
Look at the condition of the cam gear keyway (lower of the two in the picture). The gear was loose and punded the camshaft until it snapped.
Excellent diagnosis. The gear bolt was indeed only on by a few threads and was likely the cause of the breakage.
Old 04-13-2016, 02:17 PM
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Deleted duplicate post
Old 04-13-2016, 02:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Imo000
The gear was loose and punded the camshaft until it snapped.
Bolt was probably loose because the cam was broken...due to a crappy high-maintenance tensioning system.

Originally Posted by Mrmerlin
this usually happens when the belt tensioner is too tight
Old 04-13-2016, 02:21 PM
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Originally Posted by sprfrkr
1984 US Auto
Put in a replacement camshaft and fire it up.
Old 04-13-2016, 02:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Imo000
Put in a replacement camshaft and fire it up.

Going in Craigslist for $3,500 as is. If I don't get that in two weeks, then I'll do the cam.
Old 04-13-2016, 02:44 PM
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Originally Posted by sprfrkr
Going in Craigslist for $3,500 as is. If I don't get that in two weeks, then I'll do the cam.
You can get a camshaft for really cheap (the '84 US cams are dine a dozen and are not in demand), the few gaskets to do the job are not expensive either. Allocate 10 hours to confortably do the job and you are back in bussiness.
Old 04-13-2016, 04:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Imo000
You can get a camshaft for really cheap (the '84 US cams are dine a dozen and are not in demand), the few gaskets to do the job are not expensive either. Allocate 10 hours to confortably do the job and you are back in bussiness.
I did a search, but not much in the way of write ups on replacing the cam shafts or parts needed.
Old 04-13-2016, 05:09 PM
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Look for head gasket replacement threads on 16V engine.
Old 04-13-2016, 06:01 PM
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Do the cam, put it back on the road then sell if you want. Not too hard a job, but getting the cam cover on is fussy.

We'll advise if you post up here. A non-driving 928 is a very hard sell.
Old 04-13-2016, 09:48 PM
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Originally Posted by docmirror
Do the cam, put it back on the road then sell if you want. Not too hard a job, but getting the cam cover on is fussy.

We'll advise if you post up here. A non-driving 928 is a very hard sell.
I'll continue the tear down part and see where it lands me.

"Now, where did I put that SBC...?"
Old 04-13-2016, 10:00 PM
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Originally Posted by docmirror
Do the cam, put it back on the road then sell if you want. Not too hard a job, but getting the cam cover on is fussy.
Yup. A second set of hands really helps getting the cam tower on.

A non-driving 928 is a very hard sell.
100% agreement. It's not that big of a job on a 16v.
Old 04-13-2016, 10:12 PM
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So, both of you are jumping on me for recommending a procedure from the WSM as opposed to ignoring it?

Originally Posted by Imo000
The jumping cam doesn't cause bend the valve to cause problems. I've done enough 32v timing belts to be confident of this.
Great. Like I said ...

Originally Posted by docmirror
A. Do we know without question that when a cam jumps after belt removal, it jams a valve into the piston?
... I don't care what the answer is because at 45 BTDC you can spin'em around all day long. I'm typically not trying to justify deviating from a WSM procedure, so that was speculation.

Why do I need to defend the WSM procedure? Let's turn the tables. Why don't you two speculate as to why the WSM recommends 45 BTDC for 32v engines?

Originally Posted by Imo000
You work in cars long enough and will develop the ability to feel when a bolt is tight ...
What does fastener torque have to do with this?

Last, but not least, I feel bad for hijacking the OP's thread with this.



sprfrkr, there's a WSM procedure for removing the cam tower for 16v engines that starts on 15-1. It's not overly verbose but the diagrams and tables have useful bits in them.

Feel free to use it. Or not.
Old 04-13-2016, 10:33 PM
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Originally Posted by worf928
So, both of you are jumping on me for recommending a procedure from the WSM as opposed to ignoring it?

Feel free to use it. Or not.
Not jumping on your personally, just an alternate method.

Does the 45deg work? Yes, of course. Is it the only way? No, certainly not.

For the novice, and doing an interference engine, I agree with you, do it at 45 the first time. Anyone with a modicum of mech skills, and anyone doing a non-interference, just do it at TDC.

Fell free to use it, or not.
Old 04-14-2016, 10:37 AM
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Originally Posted by PorKen
Bolt was probably loose because the cam was broken...due to a crappy high-maintenance tensioning system.
Not even close. That bolt wasn't tightenned, that's all.
Old 04-14-2016, 10:41 AM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by worf928
So, both of you are jumping on me for recommending a procedure from the WSM as opposed to ignoring it?



Great. Like I said ...



... I don't care what the answer is because at 45 BTDC you can spin'em around all day long. I'm typically not trying to justify deviating from a WSM procedure, so that was speculation.

Why do I need to defend the WSM procedure? Let's turn the tables. Why don't you two speculate as to why the WSM recommends 45 BTDC for 32v engines?


What does fastener torque have to do with this?

Last, but not least, I feel bad for hijacking the OP's thread with this.



sprfrkr, there's a WSM procedure for removing the cam tower for 16v engines that starts on 15-1. It's not overly verbose but the diagrams and tables have useful bits in them.

Feel free to use it. Or not.
Here's my take why the WSM uses the 45/mark for timing belt change: So that dummies can spin the cams all day long for no reason what so ever.


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