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Final Engine Dressing Detailing - What do you use?
After using products like Simple Green for removing the bulk dirt and grease from the engine, what are folks using for the final engine dressing detailing? Something to keep the hoses and plastic bits looking new but not too glossy.
I've heard some good things about 303 Aerospace but not used it.
Just got aerospace 303 and not used it yet. I use Meguiars rubber/vinyl cleaner conditioner on all rubber parts on the car and have had very good luck with it. Been using it on 928 rubber parts for 20 years!
This is going to sound funny but I use Garage City Tire Dressing. Just the right amount of shine without being over the top. I just detailed it on Friday night.
mix linseed oil with some petroleum distillate/paint thinner and brush it on.I dislike those silicone products. -if you get any on your paint, good luck with a repaint.
This is going to sound funny but I use Garage City Tire Dressing. Just the right amount of shine without being over the top.
This^^^^^
A buddy turned me onto this stuff and it works. And like mentioned above...doesn't give the plastic and rubber parts that over-the-top shine. More of an original, factory, new car shine...in my opinion.
Is there any significant fire/combustion danger from using the linseed oil as described above?
I know that when we refinish old military rifle stocks they warn about the boiled linseed oil ( BLO ) over and over,
have to use well vented,
dispose of rags carefully, etc etc.....
Is there any significant fire/combustion danger from using the linseed oil as described above?
I know that when we refinish old military rifle stocks they warn about the boiled linseed oil ( BLO ) over and over,
have to use well vented,
dispose of rags carefully, etc etc.....
Is there any significant fire/combustion danger from using the linseed oil as described above?
Dan
Seems like when I was younger, in simpler times, we were repeatedly warned about spontaneous combustion of oily rags. Thermonuclear devices, too, but nothing about unattended bags in public spaces.
An almost completed log house across from me burned spectacularly a few years ago - the guys who were varnishing the interior didn't know about oily rags, apparently. A friend nearly lost his business the same year from a clear bag of oily rags left in the sun - the fire company arrived in the nick of time.
I routinely violate local ordinances by burning oily rags on purpose.
As a thin film on metal, nothing to worry about.
I've used 303; seems pretty good. I think it was Patman's recommendation (what happened to Patman?) For my newly plated parts, I ordered some "Fluid Film" per recommendations; if anyone lives in Buffalo, MN, be on the lookout for it (shipping error).
It is a heat resistant wax and does a good job of not only protecting rubber and plastic but also leaves a nice wax to metal parts that limits dirt and debris from sticking to it making it easier to keep clean in the future.
It does tend to leave a glossy shine on the rubber hoses when it dries, so I typically buff the intake tubed and radiator hoses after it dries to get a nice satin finish.
I should expand my answer, lot of questionable info on this topic. Rags contaminated with motor oils will not spontaneously combust (real castor-based oils may be an exception). Rags contaminated with vegetable oils (linseed, etc.) can ignite spontaneously. There is a good discussion of the chemistry involved at http://www.firehouse.com/article/105...hemist-part-25
I have switched to detail kings engine and tire dressing.....it is silicone free , doesnt glom up on the surface when you get some dirt on there and washes clean for recoat every 6 months
04-04-2016, 03:23 PM
Final Engine Dressing Detailing - What do you use?
