Wd40 is good but doesn't last.

 

[QUOTE=jeff spahn;13122102]Another thing you can try is a product called Fluid Film. QUOTE]

Thanks for the tip, just bought a can on German Amazon. It has really good reviews!

 

Try ACF-50. I do the underside of my car with their thicker corrosion block product. Believe it is safe on rubber and electrics.

 

I've just ordered some Fluid Film based on the recommendations here. I also ordered some Boeshield T-9; it's something my bicycling friends used to rave about for chains - it forms a thin waxy coating. These same friends were elitist when it came to bicycles, and would not use WD-40, not openly at least. The "Boe" is from Boeing.

Great discussion.

 

I was very skeptical of this method at first, but one of our local guys swears by it, and then I started doing it, and I must admit, it really works.

A very light coating of WD-40 does a great job of sealing things up and preventing the oxidation from coming back.

Get a can of WD, protect your fenders, and give it a liberal dousing. Spray it everywhere in the engine bay. Then let it soak for a the better part of a day. When you come back, take a rag and wipe it down to gather any excess. re-hit any tough spots or places you might have missed previously. If you do this every year or two, you won't get that oxidation (or less of it).

I tried the T-9, and it did not work for me. Good for bicycles and woodworking equipment. The WD really works for the cars.

 

We use WD-40 for salt water engines as a coating, but does it ever attract dust and grime.

 

+1 I buy the fluid film by the 5 gallon, use an undercoating gun to apply it, everything that runs in the winter is sprayed.

That said it does hold dirt and can make it messy to work.

We ended up with this stuff just to prevent galvanic corrosion between a steel motor shaft and an aluminum hub. It worked for about 3 years at a time exposed in the south Florida elements, outside in the sun, vs about 6 months without.

Expensive but you don't use much, and unlike other lubricants, it doesn't move.

 

It has a useful life measured in weeks rather than months in a salt water environment in my experience, particularly when exposed/outside. Might last a little longer under the hood with the engine not started. The CRC 6-56, which you can buy in spray cans, lasts a lot longer. Twice a year has been plenty.

 

Have you tried one of the better anti-sieze products for this service? I'm becoming a fan of some of the non-metallic nuclear-grade industrial products, although I haven't used any on the 928 so far.

 

Dr Bob, tried many, most didn't stay well, surface was horizontal and turning at 1800 RPM, exposed to both rain and sun. The Walter Rep sold us on the stick of Hang-On, it worked sufficiently and we ended the search. Tried everything from WD-40 to a number of moly based service coatings, issues ran from didn't work, WD-40, to too messy most of the moly based products. The Hang-on goes on clear and although still slippery gets less surface tack in a hurry.

I've used it extensively on my own stuff since.

 

Thanks for all the great tips. Im ordered some fluid film. I did not get the can, but rather the can with a brush. I will apply directly to the bolts and areas of consern. I may use some WD40 on the under side parts that the grim isn't as much of a

 

Corrosion X is what I use on everything. Spray it directly on a armature to bring it back or on plastics. Very popular in aviation.

 

Local Lowes stocks Fluid Film in the aerosol can

 

Do any of these products have silicone or any other chemicals that may inhibit paint adhesion if I want to paint later?
Hang-On
Fluid Film
Corrosion-X
WD-40

....and a pic, ....'cause I LOVE my new car, and we all love 928 pictures

 

I would think you would not want to paint over any of them.


Just...clean it.

None of these are films.

A proper cleaning and etching of ANY metal thing before painting would do the jobs.