First, I understand SOP is to use the flywheel lock and loosen the bolt while it is in the car. I've done that plenty of times.

However, this motor came on a pallet not in a chassis, so no flywheel to lock against.

I need to do a TB/WP job. I realize worst case scenario would be putting the motor into the car and doing that job then, but if possible I'd like to do it while it is out.

Any suggestions?

Search yielded lots of tricks for breaking the bolt loose and admonishments to do it while in the car, but I didn't see a solution for this other than it is a PITA.

 

 

Brian.

 

Well, this may be exactly the one worst thing to do...
But I inserted some brand-new bolts into the flywheel at the back of the engine stand.
Next, I wrapped a 1/4 iron pipe in a cloth (to protect the flywheel surface, and placed the wrapped pipe across the flywheel between the bolts I inserted. I had the bolts at 12 oclock and six oclock, and had the bar on the left of one bolt and the right of the other.
That allowed me to carefully hold the crank motionless from the flywheel end while I turned the crank bolt up front with a big fat cheater bar.
Granted, my crank bolt had already been loosened before pulling the motor... I would think maybe yours might be as well?

Dan

 

Impact wrench (as shown) will usually do the trick.

If you end up needing to 'hold' the flywheel with some bolts and to use a cheater bar, make damn sure the engine is very-well supported on the stand or you may end up with a broken stand and an engine on the floor.

 

If you have a spare flex plate/flywheel bolt it on. Then clamp a flat 1/4" x 1" steel bar long enough to span the bottom of the "bell housing" to the flex plate. Put a piece of flat steel (think thick washer) between the then ends of the bar and the aluminum of the block to help distribute the pressure. If you clamp everything tightly (no slack) you should have no problem loosening the crank bolt. The hard part is not tipping the engine stand over while breaking the bolt loose. Perhaps best to set the engine back on the shipping pallet and strapping it down to break the bolt loose.

Mike

 

Also lift up on the cheater bar not down ....the engine stand is already loaded up enough. Have assistants spotting the engine...

 

I do like the idea of pulling it off the stand and strapping it back to the pallet. Seems like a much better place to be when applying significant torque.
I don't have a spare FW/FP so I am going to have to rig something on that back side using the same mounting bolt locations the FP/FW uses.

 

There is a factory tool for this (9130) that's basically a long bar that bolts into the flywheel and has bearing surfaces that brace against the factory tool engine holder.

Since I had none of those, I got some c-channel steel bar and drilled holes. The tops of the C's were my bearing surfaces, and I used the arms of the engine stand cradle to brace.

Get better bolts than I did, though, because they bent horribly when I was standing on the crank bolt.

 

I'd suggest the impact.

I took mine apart a few weeks ago. No flywheel lock, but I had a 2 foot breaker bar on the bolt and a 4 foot pipe on the end of a chain wrench wrapped around the pulley (it was being replaced anyway).

Nothing. I couldn't break it loose.

Less than one second of "impacting" with a Milwaukee 18v 1/2" drive cordless impact took it right out.
Crank didn't move at all.

 

once your on the stand use an impact gun,
most air driven half inch drives will give you about 600 ft lbs of torque

 

Shock works every time, tension...is a PITA.

Breaker bar, with a pipe on it, WAIL it with follow thru like you mean it with something heavy and solid (big pipe wrench, etc)...comes right out. No flywheel lock needed

 

If the shock doesn't work, you can put hemp rope into a cylinder , all coiled up to hold the engine at a specific point. You'll have to work out which one. Works great, is nice and soft, doesn't cause any damage and if a few tiny flecks come off, they'll just vaporize upon startup. YMMV.

 

It's down on the pallet for safety, awaiting the Amazon Prime delivery of my new impact wrench..

 

Did Ryan P's GT in the stand with two big bars. One wedged through the arms behind the engine (his floor jack handle) and the other on the socket in the front. Biggest challenge is how to keep from rolling the engine and stand over onto the floor. Two of us pulling at the same time, coordinated to stop as soon as the bolt started to move. Took a few different tries to get the forces right without dropping the engine on the floor.