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Yep, and that's why I quit doing "side-jobs" for folks.
Usually, if they are to broke or cheap to pay the price at a regular shop...they are either to broke or cheap to pay for quality parts.
However, they sure don't mind coming back to me and voicing their complaints about a part failing prematurely...and expecting me to change it for no charge. Even after giving them the choice of...the best, better, cheapy or good enough to last until you sell it tomorrow parts prices.
I think he sells original Porsche hoses.
Roger can confirm this.
Doc,
You're right (like always) when you say that hoses are cheap and should be changed.
What's stopping me (for now) is that I'm not familiar removing some of them.
I did remove a few when I did the WP/TB jobs but never touched all the others.
Some don't look that bad.
But to be honest I'm a bit scared to try to change #1, #2 and #33.
They're quite deep in there to me!
We'll see.
Thank you all for the good advices.
Last edited by Bertrand Daoust; 02-28-2016 at 11:55 AM.
Remove the air cleaner housing to get the rear hoses. The heater control valve will be loose in your hand at some point, and is considered by many to be a regular maintenance part. Look hard at the fitting on the back of the pass side cylinder head for corrosion damage too.
The most challenging hose is that short section between the bottom of the coolant reservoir and the steel Y pipe that runs along the pass side fender wall just above the exhaust. I find it easiest to get to from below, but "easiest" is relative. That piece lives in the second harshest location of any of the hoses, so it really can't be ignored.
Borrow a pressure tester from your favorite local parts store to verify no leaks when you are done.
I plan to change the heater control valve small pipe (#4) for sure.
Been there many time (without changing the hose Grrrr!) so no problem with that one.
The control valve is about five years old so still good for a while I think. I'll check if it holds vacuum.
The last time I removed the intake, I broke the passenger side fitting you're talking about.
Don't know what happened. Put a new one (to me) there. Thanks Luc!
I might try to remove the coolant tank to reach the #33 hose or take a look from under the car like you suggest. I hope the "third bolt" on the tank is not in place. We'll see.
The other trick is you have to move the windshield wiper motor aside to get out the heater hoses. No idea why, but when I did this my intermittent wiper relay quit and when I put back the motor it was out of synch and had to be re-clocked. Hopefully you will not experience these oddities, but just in case ...
The steel fenderwal Y pipe is a candidate for close inspection, mostly for corrosion from the inside and remaining wall thickness. If the outside plating is still intact and there's enough metal underneath to hold coolant, I'd try Rob's "Twinkle" copper polish trick on it, and treat it to a couple coats of high-temp rattle-can clear to keep it pretty ongoing.
Reservoir is a candidate for new.
Use extreme caution while removing and replacing the level switch assy. Fragile, and white-capped replacements can be spendy.
The pressure switch in the middle of the vent line is fragile and may be NLA.
I tried to reuse my Coolant Reservoir and cracked the bottom of the tank while reinstalling it. I recommend you replace it. It's 34 year old plastic that had a 15 year design life.
...The pressure switch in the middle of the vent line is fragile and may be NLA.
If by "pressure switch", you mean the pressure senor (that trips the CWL when pressure drops), # 928 641 512 00, I don't know how fragile it is, but they tend to seep when they get old.
Roger has them. Just under $100. Got one a couple weeks ago.
If you can find some, get a blister pack (or a bottle) of P80 rubber assembly lube, makes life about 1000x better when trying to shove a dry heater hose 4 inches up over the end of the Y-pipe.
02-28-2016, 09:40 AM
