Powder coating = engine rebuild
#91
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Cash reserves perhaps..but...not an insurance claim.
This whole PC = Disaster theme is misleading.
When you do many things wrong, you can kill a motor. PC'ing is not unique, hard, or rare to do right.
#92
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Has anyone tried soda blasting, or dry ice? The dry ice method, evaporates, with no residue.
#93
Nordschleife Master
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If I didn't see this i would not believe it.
#95
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I have insurance, 1.5million covers down, but I also make you sign a release indemnifying me from any claims or liability in it you acknowledge media blasting is an abrasive process that can and does do damages to your car or parts, etc. Trust me, they sign, or they walk. I don't play games with people. The incentive is on me to recover my expensive plastic blasting media from the manifold, the incentive is on your to ensure the part is clean before you or your mechanic assembles your engine.
#96
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#97
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If this plastic media is abrasive enough to remove the terribly difficult "GTS coating" remains to be seen.
#98
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Yeah the guy who did mine took a look at the plenums and sent everything a couple of doors down to a machine shop to get them hot tanked prior to blasting with aluminum oxide. I found zero media in the runners and the stuff I found in the plenums was kind of clumped in the the corners behind the velocity stacks so maybe it wasn't 100% dry when he blasted, but clearly a lot better prepped than Vanster's.
I realize this post was almost a year ago.....
The problem with rhe '85/'86 plenums is getting them clean BEFORE they are blasted. If there is no residual oil, there is nothing for the blasting media to stick to....and virtually any media can be used.
Your guy had the right idea.....but the design of the '85/'86 plenums makes "soaking" inadequate....there are bound to be air pockets where the cleaning fluid doesn't reach.
When I do them, I make sure ALL the residual oil is removed, before they leave my shop. A half gallon of lacquer thinner, some silicone plugs, and a little bit of manual labor (shaking and turning, shaking again....change the fluid and repeat until clean)
prevents problems, before they even begin.
#100
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Alum Oxide (AO) is very unforgiving to use, meaning, most hobbyists (non professional media blasters) don't have the air compressor suitable to handle this very fast cutting media. Luckily, for the product being media blasted the likely PSI is very high and the CFM is very low meaning it will take a while to clean this or that item up. But, AO as I said is a very fast cutting media, so fast that I use it so sparingly and only on the harshest rust, or to establish a nice 'sheen' finish on say for example the Cam covers of our cars is when I add a bit more than that already 8-10% to a 15-18% AO mix.
#102
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#103
Official Bay Area Patriot
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I think I will stick to high heat ceramic paint for intake refinishes going forward. Mine still has not chipped yet and it has been 8 years. Then again, I repeatedly spray Ultimate Quick Wax all over it.
#104
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Came across this video tonight. Anybody here ever look into vapor blasting? They claim it leaves no media in the metal like dry blasting since it uses a water slurry. Seems intriguing and this guy's website quotes 1 hour to do an 8 cylinder intake at $70 an hour. Not bad if it works as advertised.
http://rocketperformance.com/vapour-...g-pricing.html
http://rocketperformance.com/vapour-...g-pricing.html
#105
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I worked in a machine shop during summers in my college years, and we used this process to prepare parts for various finishing operations, although it was called hydroblasting then, a term that now seems to be reserved for large scale operations. The advantages were a much finer surface finish, and if properly done, no residue, compared to other dry blasting techniques, as you noted. I would still very carefully examine parts processed this way, operator skill and care have a lot to do with the quality of the outcome, as always.
Last edited by M. Requin; 03-04-2017 at 08:54 AM.