What Aftermarket Parts Do You Want?
#31
Cottage Industry Sponsor
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 25,784
Likes: 150
From: Silly Valley, CA
Originally posted by GoRideSno
I would like to be able to downshift the 4 speed auto to 1st manually.
I would like to be able to downshift the 4 speed auto to 1st manually.
#33
Stan,
it is Constantine he also mentioned about doing a hood that might be done this winter.
Porken,
Its a none removable filler,the front and sides screw in from inside,The rear section i was told to put flat head screws through the roof to hold it in place but i just maid a bracket from inside to hold it in place and then you go around with a sealant to prevent leakes.Its nice if you do it right.
Lou
83 928 5speed
it is Constantine he also mentioned about doing a hood that might be done this winter.
Porken,
Its a none removable filler,the front and sides screw in from inside,The rear section i was told to put flat head screws through the roof to hold it in place but i just maid a bracket from inside to hold it in place and then you go around with a sealant to prevent leakes.Its nice if you do it right.
Lou
83 928 5speed
#34
PorKen,
I was told that if some racing sanctioning bodies would require a barrier between the driver and the cell. Currently I don't have one, but it wouldn't be too difficult, while if the cell was located in the rear seat area it would be more difficult.
Also, I used a standard sized 22 gallon Fuel Safe fuel cell in a aluminum can. I think you would be hard pressed to get a similar sized fuel cell in the back seat area without chopping up quite a bit of flooring or using a custom fuel cell. PCA Club Racing rules (for example) do not allow the modification of the floor pan between shock towers, so you might run into problems there as well.
Just more for you to consider....
I was told that if some racing sanctioning bodies would require a barrier between the driver and the cell. Currently I don't have one, but it wouldn't be too difficult, while if the cell was located in the rear seat area it would be more difficult.
Also, I used a standard sized 22 gallon Fuel Safe fuel cell in a aluminum can. I think you would be hard pressed to get a similar sized fuel cell in the back seat area without chopping up quite a bit of flooring or using a custom fuel cell. PCA Club Racing rules (for example) do not allow the modification of the floor pan between shock towers, so you might run into problems there as well.
Just more for you to consider....
#35
I've got to ask this question about the carbon sunroof, how much? does the sunroof still work afterwards? Also on my lightning of the 928 has anybody ever removed all the sound deadning? I was thinking about this and then replacing it with compressed fibreglass matting. It is a great sound soaker but what I'm removing is also a sound barrier. Any input would be appreciated.
#36
Greg,
I removed all the sound deadening, as have some of the other racers. Certainly there is tens of pounds save. Of course Mark A. has gone the next step by having his chasiss acid dipped. I don't imagine there would be much of a benefit on a street car.
Onebad928s explains a couple of posts back how the carbon fiber replacement works. Wouldn't be much of a weight saving if all the parts to make a sunroof work were retained...
I removed all the sound deadening, as have some of the other racers. Certainly there is tens of pounds save. Of course Mark A. has gone the next step by having his chasiss acid dipped. I don't imagine there would be much of a benefit on a street car.
Onebad928s explains a couple of posts back how the carbon fiber replacement works. Wouldn't be much of a weight saving if all the parts to make a sunroof work were retained...
#38
A new steering wheel WITH airbag. Like something out of a Boxter or 996 that we could just bolt in.
For additional bonus points you could include a couple of push buttons on the back of the wheel for things like radio controls, nitrous button, Cruise control, kickdown switch, brake light disable, bleach sprayer for burnouts, water injection, ejection seat, etc, etc, etc.
For additional bonus points you could include a couple of push buttons on the back of the wheel for things like radio controls, nitrous button, Cruise control, kickdown switch, brake light disable, bleach sprayer for burnouts, water injection, ejection seat, etc, etc, etc.
#39
Things that pop into my mind...
Illuminated window switches..sunroof etc.
A quieter blower in the HVAC system.
Perhaps 2 small supplemental fans in the dash (each side), where it meets the door to provide more air flow from the door vents. (im going to work on this one at some point)
LED tail lights so they are brighter.
Fiberglass caps that could go over the rubber bumperettes and could be paint matched to the car. Similar to the fiberglass rear wing in principle. Perhaps less hassle than filling and sanding and getting special paint for the bumperrettes them self.
Prefab rear steal fender flares that you could take down to a body shop and have properly welded on. Im not talking bulging flares, something subtle that blends in well with the car and that would allows us to run wider rear tires with out ANY issues.
Ive also seen the styling in some of the newer Porsche's and some newer cars in general where they use fiberglass interior panels that are smooth then color match to the car. May be getting too ricey and may not go with the 928 "style" interior, but just a thought.
(auto) To be able to drop the gear lever into a position called "1st" when ever i want.
Illuminated window switches..sunroof etc.
A quieter blower in the HVAC system.
Perhaps 2 small supplemental fans in the dash (each side), where it meets the door to provide more air flow from the door vents. (im going to work on this one at some point)
LED tail lights so they are brighter.
Fiberglass caps that could go over the rubber bumperettes and could be paint matched to the car. Similar to the fiberglass rear wing in principle. Perhaps less hassle than filling and sanding and getting special paint for the bumperrettes them self.
Prefab rear steal fender flares that you could take down to a body shop and have properly welded on. Im not talking bulging flares, something subtle that blends in well with the car and that would allows us to run wider rear tires with out ANY issues.
Ive also seen the styling in some of the newer Porsche's and some newer cars in general where they use fiberglass interior panels that are smooth then color match to the car. May be getting too ricey and may not go with the 928 "style" interior, but just a thought.
(auto) To be able to drop the gear lever into a position called "1st" when ever i want.
#40
Sorry Tony,
No whipple yet, at least not for another week or so. That's my soon to have list. There (cross my fingers) will be a Whippled car at Sharktoberfest aswell as mine sporting the Jaguar roots.
Andy K
No whipple yet, at least not for another week or so. That's my soon to have list. There (cross my fingers) will be a Whippled car at Sharktoberfest aswell as mine sporting the Jaguar roots.
Andy K
#41
I like the idea of revised interior panels.
That was kind of my idea with the pod.
Sell a new pod, with new guages, that may even have a different design,
perhaps in carbon fiber, with guages that all plug into the old sensors...
Something that has all the functionality of the old POD, but has a better
appearance, better reliability, better lighting, looks, etc...
I think the same goes for door panels, or even the entire dashboard...
Carbon, but with some cool new parts, pieces, and design...
That was kind of my idea with the pod.
Sell a new pod, with new guages, that may even have a different design,
perhaps in carbon fiber, with guages that all plug into the old sensors...
Something that has all the functionality of the old POD, but has a better
appearance, better reliability, better lighting, looks, etc...
I think the same goes for door panels, or even the entire dashboard...
Carbon, but with some cool new parts, pieces, and design...
#43
Originally posted by Tony
LED tail lights so they are brighter.
LED tail lights so they are brighter.
http://www.watsons-streetworks.com/leds_plus.html
Some light reading tony. Heh.
#44
Chronic Tool Dropper
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 20,506
Likes: 549
From: Bend, Oregon
Most of the rod ends featured on race-only suspension would not be suitable for street cars. Plus, there's a reason that Porsche opted for those big aluminum lower arms-- they are a lot stronger than the tubing type. Tubing uppers would be fine, adjustable but heavier than what the factory supplied. They would soon cause cracking of the steel around the mounting points. I'd guess.
Take a look at some of the tubing stuff that's made like this for off-road trucks, and you start to get a look at what you'd need to be doing when you start thinking about a 3500# car driven on less-than-perfect roads at speed. Those spindly little Datsun parts would fold up like a pretzel the first time you rolled a 3" rain dip or pothole while cornering at speed. Think bigger tubes, thicker walls, bigger rod ends, and you start to get into some realistic items. But then the weight goes up and the advantages may be limited to "easy adjustment" of caster/camber.
Many moons ago I made similar parts for my little Lotus parking-lot GP car. Lots of fun, but I ended up with settings very close to what I could easily get with the stock suspension bits. We had titanium arms made for the LeGrand sports racer, in a money's-no-object effort to keep the weight to a minimum. Still had to have steel rod ends, and the best deflection on those wasn't much better than what we had with urethane sleeves in inner control shafts on the lower arms. With those 5-point lower arms the uppers were very light weight, but still needed steel rod ends to work right.
Current best method has chemical-milled tubing. Anybody want to step up to the deflection studies needed for that stuff? ;-)
dr bob
Take a look at some of the tubing stuff that's made like this for off-road trucks, and you start to get a look at what you'd need to be doing when you start thinking about a 3500# car driven on less-than-perfect roads at speed. Those spindly little Datsun parts would fold up like a pretzel the first time you rolled a 3" rain dip or pothole while cornering at speed. Think bigger tubes, thicker walls, bigger rod ends, and you start to get into some realistic items. But then the weight goes up and the advantages may be limited to "easy adjustment" of caster/camber.
Many moons ago I made similar parts for my little Lotus parking-lot GP car. Lots of fun, but I ended up with settings very close to what I could easily get with the stock suspension bits. We had titanium arms made for the LeGrand sports racer, in a money's-no-object effort to keep the weight to a minimum. Still had to have steel rod ends, and the best deflection on those wasn't much better than what we had with urethane sleeves in inner control shafts on the lower arms. With those 5-point lower arms the uppers were very light weight, but still needed steel rod ends to work right.
Current best method has chemical-milled tubing. Anybody want to step up to the deflection studies needed for that stuff? ;-)
dr bob
#45
Cottage Industry Sponsor
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 25,784
Likes: 150
From: Silly Valley, CA
Originally posted by Nathan Valles
A new steering wheel WITH airbag. Like something out of a Boxter or 996 that we could just bolt in.
A new steering wheel WITH airbag. Like something out of a Boxter or 996 that we could just bolt in.