safulop

You know we've all got problems with the fading of the black anodized aluminum trim here and there.

Has anyone tried this stuff:
http://classictrimcoat.com/black-oxi...minum-kit.html

OTR18WHEELER

No, but read the intro carefully, sounds like an expensive lesson of how to apply tire wet to your black trim, to me.

OTR18WHEELER

If you know me, you know I plastidip anything, but my aluminum trim is sacred ground, it has the faded patina that can't be replaced.

Ninespub

Forty bucks is cheap compared to removing all of our trim, re-spraying, re-installing without bending chit up and ultimately replacing with new pieces that don't match. Ask me how I know.........

GlenL

Sorry.

I was going to answer your question but googled pictures of Danica Patrick instead.

Now I'm going to the store to buy Peak anti-freeze. Danica said so.

WallyP

Appears to be clear brushing lacquer. I'm not enthusiastic about the high-gloss look.

77tony

Went with SEM Trim paint: http://www.autobodytoolmart.com/sem-...VRJBoCTV7w_wcB

safulop

^^^^^^^^^^^^^
77tony you look like you know what you're doing. I would hesitate to say the same of myself. But thanks for the advice. I had some stuff redone on an old 944 once upon a time and the body shop did use a similar product to paint over the faded black anodizing. It worked very well.

A further problem for me is that one of my quarter-glass trim pieces has apparent bubbling (corrosion?) under the black anodizing. This is kind of baffling in an aluminum part, huh?

Speedtoys

Aluminum corrodes man...

Shark_gts

SEM Trim black is my go to paint for all sorts of stuff. Quality product.

dr bob

Aluminum definitely corrodes, especially in the presence of salt. Follow Tony's lead by masking, first with masking tape and masking paper around the trim. Then start with a coarse Scotch-Brite pad dampened with water, working on the trim in place. It's the best support it will ever see. If the Scotch-Brite isn't enough, move to steel wool, just enough to get the bubbling off and get to good metal. Sand with 220 wet-or-dry to feather any edges. Pull your masking and wash the area thoroughly. Dry, and then mask again, this time with painter's film and tape as Tony shows. Then start with an aluminum-specific primer, like alodine especially if salt exposure is a possibility. Then a finish-compatible surfacing primer, another Scotch-Brite scuff with medium, then your finish coats. The SEM and Wurth trim paints are less than black so better match the original painted pieces. Originally-anodized pieces were flatter than flat-finish paints, so doing a little will turn into do-it-all efforts if you want all the pieces on the car to match.

As always, prep is key. Masking the whole car before spraying will save a ton of clean-up grief later on, so don't skimp. Don't skimp on the steps, and your results will be great.

GlenL

I'm a little surprised by how you did that. That windshield trim comes off easily. No tricks needed. Just work slowly. No chance for overspray or tape bleed incidents with it off.

dr bob

The windshield trim does indeed come off fairly easily. The challenge at least for me is to get it back on without any scrape or scratches if it's painted, as anodizing is thinner and actually more forgiving than paint when it comes to scratches. Then getting the little clips installed without scratching the trim on the way, that gets me too. For most folks, masking and doing some finish work in place is a probably a better/safer solution.

--- The windshield trim is a holdover from the 60's/70's, metal trim that is held on with metal clips. To remove it, use a soft wood "drift" with a sharp edge, tapping carefully along the body-side edge laterally across the glass. Go slowly and carefully so you don't dent or bend the trim pieces. The clips slie over the joints atthe top of the side pieces where they meet up with the top piece. I usually use some "gaffer's tape" (like duct tape but doesn't leave any glue behind) to help hold pieces in place so I can use both hands on the tools. I'll never nbe as good or confident or fast as Gabe at 928 International's neighbor glass installer; He has this stuff off in seconds, while I'm still strategizing. The WSM has a little section on this task, with pictures.

safulop

The only aluminum trim on mine that is really pretty nasty are the quarter glass surrounds. There's like a bend in one of them, some corrosion on the other, it's poor. I notice that 928 International sells these for reasonable prices so I wonder if it is probably better to just replace all four pieces of the quarter glass trim.

Do these come off without a struggle? What is the methodology for removal and installation? My window rubber seals are in good shape I think, they were replaced by a PO who had the car painted, but he unfortunately recycled the original anodized trim. My guess is that the trim is sort of important to holding the rubber seals on. . .

77tony

IIRC at the time tis waas done, the upper windscreen trim was NLA. Did not want to risk bending up the trim so prepped & painted in place as Dr Bob described. No issues. T