Dash pod upgrade
#106
Rennlist Member
You can see the difference compared to the stock bulb on the right, can you imagine what three would do, IMO may need only two, one on each side none in the middle.
#108
Rennlist Member
Don't know what 194's you tried but here is pic using only one (on the left) of the ones I posted the link to.
You can see the difference compared to the stock bulb on the right, can you imagine what three would do, IMO may need only two, one on each side none in the middle.
You can see the difference compared to the stock bulb on the right, can you imagine what three would do, IMO may need only two, one on each side none in the middle.
#109
Rennlist Member
As far as the mirror like reflector backing I can't say as I didn't remove the Pod(s) I have them installed in 3 cars now and just did a 91 and an 88 S4 for a friends using the same LED's all look the same.
The newer multi-SM LED's are a big improvement over the older type single LED design, I've also had a much improved results using a similar SM-multi LED for the HVAC, however adding reflector material would improve that application IMO.
I too have the Garage9 (90buck) LED update in my Blue 85, had 2 fail, next time they go out I'm going back to Stock and using these newer multi-SMD's.
Yours look great and are very bright too
Dave
The newer multi-SM LED's are a big improvement over the older type single LED design, I've also had a much improved results using a similar SM-multi LED for the HVAC, however adding reflector material would improve that application IMO.
I too have the Garage9 (90buck) LED update in my Blue 85, had 2 fail, next time they go out I'm going back to Stock and using these newer multi-SMD's.
Yours look great and are very bright too
Dave
#110
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Option 2: Reverse engineer the Jager LED's and replace them with white. The LED's used are component LED's and need to be able to handle at least 15volts. The LED's are 5mm diameter and have no shoulder. I haven't really looked hard but didn't see any on superbirhgt or my local electronics store. Most are far lower volt ratings.
14 V / 0.02 A = 700 Ω
To be more accurate (as is the on-line LED calculator), you should actually account for the voltage drop across the LED, thus:
(14 V - 3.6 V) / 0.02 A = 520 Ω.
Regardless, I'd go with an 820 Ω resistor (or larger). Lower current through the LED means longer life.
Power dissipation for that will be no more than (14 V)^2 / 820 Ω = 0.239 W, so an 820 Ω, ¼ W resistor will suffice. If you go smaller than 820 Ω, you should probably go with a ½ W resistor. Especially if it's enclosed in heat-shrink tubing and thus can't dissipate heat as effectively.
Step up to larger value resistors if the LED is too bright.
Last edited by Ed Scherer; 12-16-2016 at 10:10 PM.
#111
Rennlist Member
Post 72 on dashpod upgrade
Is there any way to tell which side of the bulb is negative before placing it in the socket in the position described in your pictures. I have bought a replacement cluster housing and circuit board which I was hoping to fit with the new superbright leds on my desk before taking out the old cluster and swapping over the gauges to my new one ? How can I tell if they are in the right way without trying them out when connected in the car.
#112
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
I was inspired by your photos of led upgrade to attempt the same in my car.
Is there any way to tell which side of the bulb is negative before placing it in the socket in the position described in your pictures. I have bought a replacement cluster housing and circuit board which I was hoping to fit with the new superbright leds on my desk before taking out the old cluster and swapping over the gauges to my new one ? How can I tell if they are in the right way without trying them out when connected in the car.
Is there any way to tell which side of the bulb is negative before placing it in the socket in the position described in your pictures. I have bought a replacement cluster housing and circuit board which I was hoping to fit with the new superbright leds on my desk before taking out the old cluster and swapping over the gauges to my new one ? How can I tell if they are in the right way without trying them out when connected in the car.
#113
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
You can also install the bulbs and hook your 12v source to the back of the circuit board before you install the pod back in the car. It's been quite a while since i did the 79 and the GTS, but someone may chime in on this. Took my 12v source and alligator clipped them onto the board. You've got a 50/50 shot at installing correctly, then just pull and reinstall the rest. I did NOT do my iddiot lights in LED as they rarely go off (theoretically)... Good luck w it, it's a great project!!
#114
Rennlist Member
Thanks for that, but where on the circuit board do you place the alligator clips. I dont know anything really about auto electrics. Perhaps you could mark on a pic of the board.
Last edited by murray928; 06-29-2021 at 11:51 AM. Reason: Needed pic of board
#115
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
I think Ed has it on his thread. (Led upgrade)
Worst case, set the gauge cluster on the Column and temporarily connect the pod harnesses. Turning ignition key should activate illumination and check if that way. You’ll see pretty quick which light up and which don’t.
Worst case, set the gauge cluster on the Column and temporarily connect the pod harnesses. Turning ignition key should activate illumination and check if that way. You’ll see pretty quick which light up and which don’t.
#117
Rennlist Member
Many thanks for the advice. Double checked polarities with a 9v battery and a multi meter. I know now how to do one thing with that multi meter.
Will post a picture when I have it installed.
Will post a picture when I have it installed.