Engine, Cradle welding on an S4
01-08-2016, 02:25 PM
#16
Chronic Tool Dropper
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Herman--
The work done is impressive, particularly the part where you still have the separated part. Guessing this was a from a front-corner collision rather than from dragging the alternator through a pothole. Looking at the integrity of the broken-off section, did you you give any consideration to using an epoxy to glue it back on rather than the welding effort?
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In a previous life, the informal TIG welding "qualification" test for aluminum was demonstrate one's ability to weld a longitudinal cut-in-half beer can with no burn-through and have it hold water. No sink for the heat as you had with the aluminum plate. Needed a very large current range on the pedal. I never even bothered to try.
The work done is impressive, particularly the part where you still have the separated part. Guessing this was a from a front-corner collision rather than from dragging the alternator through a pothole. Looking at the integrity of the broken-off section, did you you give any consideration to using an epoxy to glue it back on rather than the welding effort?
-----
In a previous life, the informal TIG welding "qualification" test for aluminum was demonstrate one's ability to weld a longitudinal cut-in-half beer can with no burn-through and have it hold water. No sink for the heat as you had with the aluminum plate. Needed a very large current range on the pedal. I never even bothered to try.
01-08-2016, 05:32 PM
#18
Chronic Tool Dropper
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Think 'kickstand', Mark. Or 'anti-roll can'. Herman will probably put a new filter on, and even put new oil in it before he runs it in the car.
01-08-2016, 07:37 PM
#19
Archive Gatekeeper
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LOL, I think I got the brake master and reservoir from this car.
01-08-2016, 11:33 PM
#20
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Thread Starter
For your records...?
Rob,
Donor Vehicle: 1989 Porsche 928 S4, with 21,698 Original Miles, Vin# WP0JB0921KS860810 Interior: Black. Exterior: Silver Metallic.
Match?
Donor Vehicle: 1989 Porsche 928 S4, with 21,698 Original Miles, Vin# WP0JB0921KS860810 Interior: Black. Exterior: Silver Metallic.
Match?
01-09-2016, 03:30 AM
#21
Archive Gatekeeper
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Hi Herman-
Not sure, I was stalking the usual Ebay merchants with good 928 parts, and Pavel had a brake master and reservoir that I couldn't resist. Not that I _need_ a BMC or reservoir, but hey, why not?
Not sure, I was stalking the usual Ebay merchants with good 928 parts, and Pavel had a brake master and reservoir that I couldn't resist. Not that I _need_ a BMC or reservoir, but hey, why not?
01-09-2016, 11:53 PM
#22
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Thread Starter
Installing cradle
Today I re-installed the cradle to the block after cleaning the faces and applying a small coat of loctite 547.
The cradle bore alignment checked out fine and I believe the use of the 15x15' 1/2 tick aluminum slab on the welding table that functioned as the heat sink did avoid any warping.
All nuts and bolts that needed to come off in order to remove the cradle were marked with a center punch marked before hand and then stored in such a way that each one of them got back to their original location and when torque was applied the marks did compare to those values when the motor was build at the factory.
Before the cradle nuts and bolts were fastened the oil pump was fitted in its housing and tight down in order to align the pump and housing the pictures show this worked out fine.
The flywheel was mounted so to the crank could be moved a few degrees CW and CCW during the time/stages the nuts were torqued down to make sure there was no binding at the crank.
All went fine without any complications and the next step will be the installation of a new silicone oil pan gasket more about this later...
The cradle bore alignment checked out fine and I believe the use of the 15x15' 1/2 tick aluminum slab on the welding table that functioned as the heat sink did avoid any warping.
All nuts and bolts that needed to come off in order to remove the cradle were marked with a center punch marked before hand and then stored in such a way that each one of them got back to their original location and when torque was applied the marks did compare to those values when the motor was build at the factory.
Before the cradle nuts and bolts were fastened the oil pump was fitted in its housing and tight down in order to align the pump and housing the pictures show this worked out fine.
The flywheel was mounted so to the crank could be moved a few degrees CW and CCW during the time/stages the nuts were torqued down to make sure there was no binding at the crank.
All went fine without any complications and the next step will be the installation of a new silicone oil pan gasket more about this later...
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Wisconsin Joe (02-23-2020)
04-10-2020, 04:21 AM
#28
Rennlist Member
I acquired a low mileage 21k, standard 1989 motor that needed a broken alternator mount repaired.
Due to the complexity of the break I decided to remove the cradle from the engine block remove/clean the oil pan gasket and re-install the oil pan for the initial alignment of the broken piece while making some initial tacks to hold the piece in place before finishing the welding all around.
The pictures show the before and after welding parts of the project.
All weld areas were pre-cleaned with stainless steel wire wheels on a Dremel the welding was done with Argon and 4030 filler rods.
The welding table is a slab of 1/2" thick aluminum that provided a perfect heat sink.
Due to the complexity of the break I decided to remove the cradle from the engine block remove/clean the oil pan gasket and re-install the oil pan for the initial alignment of the broken piece while making some initial tacks to hold the piece in place before finishing the welding all around.
The pictures show the before and after welding parts of the project.
All weld areas were pre-cleaned with stainless steel wire wheels on a Dremel the welding was done with Argon and 4030 filler rods.
The welding table is a slab of 1/2" thick aluminum that provided a perfect heat sink.
I have a really nasty situation with my engine : horizontaal crack in the engine valley perhaps over 2 cilinders :
Can this be welded?
Do I completely need to dismantle my engine ? Or is it sufficient to just drain the coolant fluid?