bureau13

I'm not completely sure what to call them, but I think they're what is sometimes referred to as "hockey pucks." Maybe? Currently just talking about the front ones ('86.5). I have enough oil grunge everywhere that I don't know that they're leaking, but they certainly could be.

I've read that these are "easy." However, the passenger side seems partially obstructed by the plate behind the timing belt/driven cam gear. Yet nowhere have I seen someone say you have to tear all that down to do it. It just so happens I AM all torn down to that point, so if you do have to do it then I should do it now. If there's a trick to getting them out with all that other stuff in place, then there's really no hurry.

ajricker

That was the one I didn't change when i did my motor. I believe you have to pull the cam gear to do that one. I chose not to as that one didn't appear to be leaking.
Art

davek9

Yes you do need to remove the Rear Backing plates in order to do the all four front seals, I do as I want to clean it all up back there anyway. It's that part of a full T-Belt job that most won't do until they have a leak and or don't want to pay a shop for the added time it takes.

My luck if I don't do it, they would leak soon after all was back together and I was out driving and having fun

Imo000

Actually you can replace the front seal, that the camshaft goes through, with the backing plate in place but to change the "hockey puck" the backing plate or the valve cover with the bearing cap needs to be removed.

Mrmerlin

OR if you have the cam cover off then remove the cam caps at the ends of the head and the rubber caps will fall out ,
use loctite 574 to install the cam caps
the rubber caps go on dry

bureau13

Thanks for the info everyone. I'll try to get a better look in there to see if they're leaking...it's hard to tell, but at this point I wouldn't bet on them NOT leaking. I wasn't going to remove the gears at all if I can help it, but not sure if I can tell for sure if they're OK without doing so.