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Fromt crank seal ?

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Old Dec 31, 2015 | 04:04 PM
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From: Wrong Island NY, 04 CTT , 1984 S 5 Speed Slate Blue Metallic
Default Fromt crank seal ?
Looks like my front seal is leaking on the 84 what kind of hell am I looking at ?
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Old Dec 31, 2015 | 04:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Fsharp9
Looks like my front seal is leaking on the 84 what kind of hell am I looking at ?
Not hell, just everything off the front of the motor to get at it. Good time to do your oil pump seals WYAIT.
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Old Dec 31, 2015 | 04:22 PM
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And new timing belt! Maybe a water pump? It's all the "while you are in there" items that can add up
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Old Dec 31, 2015 | 04:31 PM
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Not that bad..no more than a timing belt change I think.

Remove belt, remove crank gear..and there's the seal.
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Old Dec 31, 2015 | 04:52 PM
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I'm in the midst of that as well (see my thread on things found while doing the timing belt...one of those things appears to be my main crank seal).
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Old Dec 31, 2015 | 04:54 PM
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TB , WP and Porken all done less than 2 years and 4K miles ago car just turned 60k
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Old Dec 31, 2015 | 07:19 PM
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You'll have to remove the front of the engine. Not a "difficult" job or complex just a lot of labor to disassemble. You can omit the timing belt and water pump job, yours are relatively new.

I do agree on oil pump seals including the shaft one. An 84 has the old cam belt tensioner; might be a good idea to check and make sure it's full of oil and the washers are stacked properly; re-tension the belt properly.

You could probably knock that all out on a Sunday morning and afternoon.
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Old Dec 31, 2015 | 07:55 PM
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How can you be sure it's the front seal?

I've found it's rarely the front seal. An oil leak up front is usually, oil pump, oil filler neck, and occasionally cam seals.
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Old Dec 31, 2015 | 08:40 PM
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Location, but won't be absolutely sure until I tear it down
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Old Dec 31, 2015 | 09:45 PM
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i did mine one weekend just because I thought it might be leaking. Not hard. Just takes time to get in there and get out.
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Old Dec 31, 2015 | 10:32 PM
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The slot to pry it out didn't work for me, so I used the drywall screw method. If I recall, I put it in dry - no lube.
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Old Dec 31, 2015 | 10:45 PM
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You need the right tools to remove (pick) and to re-install. After that its easy. My hardest task was the #&!^ crank bolt. Some gorilla had put it on last time
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Old Jan 1, 2016 | 05:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Adk46
The slot to pry it out didn't work for me, so I used the drywall screw method. If I recall, I put it in dry - no lube.
IMO you should not put the new seal in dry, I always use some assembly lube on the sealing "lip' that contacts the rotating shaft (cam or crank).

However the seal does press into the block dry (no sealant), if that is what you mean by dry.
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Old Jan 1, 2016 | 08:44 PM
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Originally Posted by davek9
IMO you should not put the new seal in dry, I always use some assembly lube on the sealing "lip' that contacts the rotating shaft (cam or crank).

However the seal does press into the block dry (no sealant), if that is what you mean by dry.
Yes. Thanks for clarifying.
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Old Jan 1, 2016 | 08:55 PM
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Originally Posted by davek9
IMO you should not put the new seal in dry, I always use some assembly lube on the sealing "lip' that contacts the rotating shaft (cam or crank).

However the seal does press into the block dry (no sealant), if that is what you mean by dry.
Dave,
For the sealing lip lubricant, what to use and/or to avoid.
I haven't been there yet, but will soon.
Thanks
Craig
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