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Here's the deal: I was working on something that I'm about 99% sure would work. I have a usable 2.5D model suitable for subtractive (i.e., CNC machining using my ShopBot) application.
What slowed me down (to the point where I stalled out a few months ago) was that the ABS sheet material I was using was melting too easily. I'm guessing I could get past that (with better speeds and feeds and perhaps some air cooling), but I, too, think that this probably really is best done via 3D printing. I might still try to complete what I was working on, but I'll admit that it has kind of dropped in priority. The project is still sitting on the ShopBot, so if I need to use the ShopBot for something else, I might be motivated to try again. Heck, now that I'm thinking about it again, maybe I'll give it another try within the next few days.
I already have the O-rings and membrane breather vents that I'd like to use regardless of how the cap is actually made (machined vs. printed).
Machining ABS plastic is tricky business. You need the speed to be as low as your machine will allow. the material temperature cannot exceed 125F, so you can use a laser thermometer or similar to do some test cuts until you find the sweet spot. I'd think you'll need a 1/4-3/8" thick piece of plastic to mimic the thickness of the stock cover so that the retaining clip is still effective at sealing out the elements as best as possible. Considering that there will inherently be gaps around the LED housing, it may be a non-issue... we're just trying to minimize what dirt/dust could get into the housing over time.
If you'd like to send me your current model that the ShopBot uses to CNC the part, I might be able to use it as a base/starting file for the 3D printer. PM me if you want to try that out. If you have a cover that you could take some critical measurements of, it would also allow me to model the part during my free time.
Alternatively, if anyone has a H4 back cover they can lend me as a core, I'll give them a set of 3D printed covers for free. I'll probably sell them for $40 per set + shipping, and also release the CAD file for free for those that have their own 3D printer.
Yeah I can make that. I'll put it on the calendar and see you there. If something happens where it doesn't work out that I can attend the breakfast, we can make arrangements.
I was looking over the back cover of the H4's and considering the design of the LED bulbs. I was thinking an alloy cap with a hole through the center for the LEB bulb body would be a good solution. The alloy material would be a good in aiding heat dissipation. The screw on heat sink for the bulb would lock down on the cover and provide a tight seal.. I drew up some ideas do you think this would be a good option? The seal from the original caps would be reused on this one.
I prototyped up some dust covers using some 1/4 Birchwood plywood and they turned out really well. Ultimately I'd like these to be made from aluminum to help with heat dissipation but I think this is a good alternative.
The max heat from the LED bulbs is 150 -180 according to the manufacturer. That should be well within the 451 degree thermal capacity of the wood. plus I would expect the led bulbs to be fairly well cooled given their position in the open air and the large metal fitting the bulbs sit in.
Last edited by Michael Benno; 02-27-2017 at 12:10 AM.
@traxtar928, did you have a problem with these LED's interacting funny with your fog lights?
I installed these bulbs last night and while they work just fine Low / High beam.
However when I turn on the fog light with the low beams on, the high beams are activated at the same time. Did you have this issue?
I contacted the manufacturer and they said it was a result of the common ground. Meaning the fog and the headlight share the same ground points. This doesn't make sense to me, but I am going to try and disconnect the headlight ground and ground it to the engine block and give it a try.
I will say I am pretty happy with the brightness. Much better than the halogen H4. And I must say I am shocked at how small the gauge of the supply wires are. There is no way I would ever run halogens with those wires!
So, you can see that I did a direct power modification for my headlights, very similar to Alan's method. I have a strange issue where if my fog lights are on and I switch to high beams, the driving lights will turn on, but not turn back off. I'll take a video tonight to better explain, and edit this post accordingly.
I think that there may be some voltage leak on the high beam relay, because if I tap it, the driving lights will turn off and go back to fog lights. It doesn't take much voltage to hold a relay, so that's my suspicion. Haven't measured with a DMM yet.
Those prototype covers look like an excellent start... it's great to know that a simple 1/4" plate will work fine. I think that if you used a 5/16 or 3/8 plate and machined a groove for the gasket it would be nice. By the way, those headlight assemblies look brand new! WOW.
The Fog Light issues can be solved by replacing the FOG Light Relay with a standard type 53.
At least on an S3, it has to do with the circuit that prevents one from running with both Hi-beam and Fog at the same time and it's MY year dependent.
It's been covered here before, I'll see if I can find the thread.
Dave
Edit: I corrected my original post where I mistakenly stated Headlight relay.
The Fog Light issues can be solved by replacing the Headlight Relay with a standard type 53.
At least on an S3, it has to do with the circuit that prevents one from running with both Hi-beam and Fog at the same time and it's year dependent.
It's been covered here before, I'll see if I can find the thread.
Dave
thanks for the good insight Dave. Let me know if you find the thread. I'll look as well. Hopefully there will be some insight on S4 applications as well.
Yeah I can make that. I'll put it on the calendar and see you there. If something happens where it doesn't work out that I can attend the breakfast, we can make arrangements.
I pulled apart my "spare" AC head unit and the post that yours is missing is missing in mine as well. Darn.
Spent 20 minutes today starting to model the headlight cover. I'd guess another few hours to finish detail work and print a few test parts and fine-tune the fitment. Progress for those of us who want to preserve the integrity of the H4 reflector while LED bulbs are used.
Finally had a chance to spend more time on the model... I believe it's ready for 3D printing. The machine here is down. Anyone with a printer at home that wants the STEP file to try for themselves?
02-23-2017, 12:32 PM
