mskar

When replacing my tie rod ends a few weeks back, I found that the right side end had been screwed into the rod all the way, leaving no room for further adjustment, while the other side was almost fully extended. The PO (presumably his mechanic) had replaced the steering rack and I think its safe to assume it was done incorrectly. I essentially adjusted the tie rod ends so that the total toe was equivalent to before but evenly distributed on each tie rod end.

So now, quite obviously, the steering wheel points almost 90 deg off. Can this be corrected by remounting the steering wheel, or does it need to be corrected by removing the rack and correcting it from that side?

Happy to read previous posts but I'm not sure how to search this one.

So I finally finished my TB/WP, main-seal, oil pump seals job and took it for a test drive last night. Have a water bridge leak that I'm planning on addressing tomorrow (I must have been a bit too rough on the thermostat housing while trying to pry loose the inside seal) but having this car inspected and driving is now looking like a full on reality. Quite stoked.

Speedtoys

Look at the rack from the front, and you will see either a hole facing forward and slightly down, or a plastic plug in such a hole.

You want to center the rack by locating a dimple in the steering rack piston rod center to that hole.

You can get also, IIRC a 12x1.5mm bolt, grind the end to a point, and screw it in there to hold the rack center.

Then work the tie rod ends to align the car.

Then with a 27mm socket, remove and recenter the steering wheel.


I dont think Im missing a step..others will chime in.

A step -may- require dropping the rack, center it, and remove the U joint to the rack, clock the steering wheel to a point, then re-assemble the steering column Ujont to the rack, but I'm not sure.

Speedtoys

Where is the bridge leak?

On the arms on the sides that had the red tiny Orings?

mskar

The big o-ring that goes down into the block. I nearly cried when i saw coolant leaking after having done the TB/WP job but I narrowed it down to that top area. Just to be sure it wasn't the therm front cover I redid that last night. After drying every last bit of coolant off the area (and the block "pits" which had filled) I can just see green filling the ring around the therm housing to block ring.

It seemed to get a bit better after running the engine for a little while and I was hoping maybe the ring would reseal after running but it still leaks.

Speedtoys

Ah well, that one is easy to change at least.

Make sure EVERYTHING is clean and smooth for the new Oring, and the ring is installed right.

The inner sealing ring, wont be part of this...just the larger outter one.

FredR

Clearly something is very much amiss. Hopefully it is nothing more than some chump having put the steering wheel on incorrectly but whatever it is you need to evaluate and correct to eliminate the [slight] possibility that something is bent.

Speedtoys hit the nail on the head when he advised you to centre the rack. If the steering wheel is not central at this location the solution is obvious. If it is centralised, time to start worrying.

One has to wonder why some dork would actually leave the rack like ths. Wonders never cease!

Rgds

Fred

mskar

Nothing surprises me anymore. Maybe they were trying to compensate for the custom single 16x8 (on the front no less) + three 16x7 config. I think one 15x6 on the left rear would have really completed it but hey that's just me.

I imagine the PO got fed up with dropping $1000 at a time for halfassed repairs, on a car that ran worse the more he had done with it. Worked out for me, I got it pretty cheap and half of the issues took nothing more than some emory and deoxit.

Really would've been nice to have found a 1000 mile old receipt for a TB/WP change from a Porsche dealer in the glove box though.

Speedtoys

ya..center the rack, then center the tie rods..center the wheel, find alignment shop.

mskar

I may be clouding the issue with bad terminology, the issue is the large oring where the water bridge fits into the block, I think I was calling it the thermostat housing.

Looks like a medium-beyatch to do according to my searches, crossbar, fuel rail covers, one fuel line disconnect, lots of wiggling, and three rubber o-rings to keep track of while reinstalling.

Ordered some silicone grease on recommendations of a previous post. Did NOT order the recommended paper gaskets however which I read about after my parts order went in so I'm going to take the chance that mine doesn't need them. Can always go back in and its usually much easier the second time

mskar

I read an old post saying that Sears has the correct alignment tools but that its difficult to get them to do a 928. Hadn't considered Sears since they tried and failed on my 911 once upon a time, are they worth checking with iyo?

Speedtoys

Anyplace that has a Hunter digital rack can do it providing they do NOT under ANY circumstances raise the front end to "inspect" anything.

Anywhere you go, politely inform them that the factory procedure is never to raise it, without special tools to pull the car to the right height..which nobody has anymore. Ive never had an argument.

FredR

For the alignment you need a shop that has the Hunter laser machine [or equivalent] and wise owner would use a shop that has known capability on the 928. It is not difficult and we can easily coach you as to what to look for assuming they will let you oversee what is going on.If they do not then simply walk away from them.

The most important features of an alignment is that the figures should be very close side to side and the car must be well settled on it suspension before doing anything. The Hunter machine will tell the operator the settings for that particular car from the machine computer memory. This will not tell you that Porsche changed caster to 5 degrees on later S4/GTS models and this can also be used on your model. Most operators settle for values that are within the allowable range whereas an astute owner knows exactly what settings he wants to see. To be fair this is not that critical on wheels with stock size rubber and mid range settings are usually fine.

In my case because of the much wider rubber I use more camber, more caster and less toe on the steering thus a more customised alignment to suit my requirements. Generally I prefer it if they let me do the alignment myself- that or I supervise each setting carefully. Do the rear first and then move ot the front. There is some degree of interaction between front camber, caster and toe-in and as one thing is changed it has some impact on the others so a bit of an iterative process with toe-in being the last adjustment made.

Regards

Fred

Speedtoys

But be careful..if they do what the machine wants, it will still be fine. If you try to guide a shop too much without having a relationship...they may chase you away.

mskar

Excellent advice as always. Thanks guys.

Imo000

Get a proper alignment and then just pull the steering wheel off and re centre it.