Air pump delete on S4+GT
09-26-2003, 07:58 AM
#1
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Air pump delete on S4+GT
I've searched for info about the proper way of getting rid of the air pump and am more confused now than before.. 
Does the S4 and GT also also have a fan connected to the belt that runs the air pump?
I've read about some of you guys who have connected an electric fan instead of a belt driven one, is this only on the older models or is the same construction on the post-1987 cars?
Anyone who knows all about how it works on the later cars?
Does the S4 and GT also also have a fan connected to the belt that runs the air pump?
I've read about some of you guys who have connected an electric fan instead of a belt driven one, is this only on the older models or is the same construction on the post-1987 cars?
Anyone who knows all about how it works on the later cars?
09-26-2003, 08:55 AM
#3
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Originally posted by Lagavulin
Why do you want to eliminate the air pump?
If your car needs to pass a smog test, it's operation will help you pass.
Why do you want to eliminate the air pump?
If your car needs to pass a smog test, it's operation will help you pass.
So it'll be no problem to pass the inspection without the pump and I guess that it's stealing a few ponies and weighs a couple of kilos I might as well delete it.
09-26-2003, 08:57 AM
#4
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Originally posted by BerNard94
The S4/GT/GTS cars have four accessory drive belts. One for A/C, one for Gen, one for P/S, and one for the air pump. The cooling fans are electric. You can simply remove the drive belt to the air pump. Don't bother though, the parasitic loss is minimal. HTH, Bern.
The S4/GT/GTS cars have four accessory drive belts. One for A/C, one for Gen, one for P/S, and one for the air pump. The cooling fans are electric. You can simply remove the drive belt to the air pump. Don't bother though, the parasitic loss is minimal. HTH, Bern.
If there is a parasitic loss (how ever minimal it is) I don't want it on my car.. I want all possible power down to the road.
09-26-2003, 12:26 PM
#5
I'll buy your air pump is its not too much from the Northern Front where you are, and in good shape. PM me.
09-27-2003, 07:43 AM
#6
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Originally posted by sweanders
It works the other way around here in Sweden. To get the proper readings the pump has to be turned off when doing the smog test and because of this the 928's has got an exception and does not need to give proper lambda values.
So it'll be no problem to pass the inspection without the pump and I guess that it's stealing a few ponies and weighs a couple of kilos I might as well delete it.
It works the other way around here in Sweden. To get the proper readings the pump has to be turned off when doing the smog test and because of this the 928's has got an exception and does not need to give proper lambda values.
So it'll be no problem to pass the inspection without the pump and I guess that it's stealing a few ponies and weighs a couple of kilos I might as well delete it.
And I always thought the Scandinavians are the most sane in Europe! ;-)
09-27-2003, 08:29 AM
#7
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I dont remember all the details but after researching the operation of the air pump and how it is an integral part of the system ( i.e. required for proper cat operation, etc. ) I decided to replace mine.
I ran without mine for a few weeks until I had time to install the new Griffiths system; I didnt notice any difference with our without it but I am comfortable with the operation as designed.
I ran without mine for a few weeks until I had time to install the new Griffiths system; I didnt notice any difference with our without it but I am comfortable with the operation as designed.
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09-27-2003, 11:13 AM
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Anders,
I suspect the Swedish test is to ensure that the engine is in good condition, and that the emissions control system is not covering up poor operation.
I am NOT trying to tell you what to do with your car, but I would like to make a few points:
- In most areas in the USA, the emissions testing includes a visual check of the emission control equipment. A car will not pass the inspection with misssing equipment, regardless of the actual performance. You might want to check and make sure that your inspection is not the same - and if it isn't, it could be next year!
- The car WILL emit much more pollutants without an air pump. The cats depend upon a steady flow of fresh air to function properly.
- The pump does not compress air - it is simply a very efficient positive-displacement pump, and just moves air at very low pressure from the filter to the cats. As a result, it creates very little drag.
- In the USA, there is a large hobby of restoring old "muscle cars". Some of the most expensive parts for these restorations are the emission control components. A car with a complete system is MUCH more valuable than one with missing components. The same may be true of the 928 some day in the future.
- If you plan to keep the pump in case you need it later - they are prone to locking up if stored for a long time.
Just some points to ponder...
I suspect the Swedish test is to ensure that the engine is in good condition, and that the emissions control system is not covering up poor operation.
I am NOT trying to tell you what to do with your car, but I would like to make a few points:
- In most areas in the USA, the emissions testing includes a visual check of the emission control equipment. A car will not pass the inspection with misssing equipment, regardless of the actual performance. You might want to check and make sure that your inspection is not the same - and if it isn't, it could be next year!
- The car WILL emit much more pollutants without an air pump. The cats depend upon a steady flow of fresh air to function properly.
- The pump does not compress air - it is simply a very efficient positive-displacement pump, and just moves air at very low pressure from the filter to the cats. As a result, it creates very little drag.
- In the USA, there is a large hobby of restoring old "muscle cars". Some of the most expensive parts for these restorations are the emission control components. A car with a complete system is MUCH more valuable than one with missing components. The same may be true of the 928 some day in the future.
- If you plan to keep the pump in case you need it later - they are prone to locking up if stored for a long time.
Just some points to ponder...
09-28-2003, 02:05 AM
#10
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Something to think about as well perhaps. When you unhook/remove the pump you should probably cap off the end of the fitting that leads up to the airpump from the cats. Normally the flow of air is TO the cats. With out the pump/belt in place the exhaust gasses dont meet any resistance as they travel back. My guess is some of the heat/gasses/fumes will emerge from the fitting left over from the airpump removal...or will travel up into the airpump if the belt was removed.
Dont know how hot or even if this is an iussue , but it popped into my mind. I capped the pipe off that leads TO the pump as a precaution. I can have my pump back in order in about an hour. I do it when i throw my cats back on and do a pinch bolt check on the front clamp.
Dont know how hot or even if this is an iussue , but it popped into my mind. I capped the pipe off that leads TO the pump as a precaution. I can have my pump back in order in about an hour. I do it when i throw my cats back on and do a pinch bolt check on the front clamp.
