Pinch bolt check '91 GT - how much fwd creep?
11-07-2015, 05:28 PM
#1
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Pinch bolt check '91 GT - how much fwd creep?
What a pain this has turned out to be... I didn't think I had to remove the cats to get the bell housing off, but I did.
Now I know where the O2 sensor is.... I guess I never spotted that before.
Anyway, as you can see in the pic, the rear clamp is obviously more fwd that it should be. I could get the bolt out with a long allen socket, but unable to torque the new one to 66ftlbs due to flex in the long allen shaft required. It was in great shape and within .2mm in length of a new bolt. No red dust or evidence of damage anywhere. It was actually very clean back there.
Take a look how close the front #1 clamp is to those two bolts in the 2nd pic.
How far back should I pry the front clamp? I assume the access hole in the front is supposed to line up with the bolt in front clamp #2. So if I pry it to the rear enough to center the rear clamp in its access hole, that #2 front clamp may be out of line with its access hole.
As you can see in the pic, that #2 clamp isn't exactly centered in the access hole, but close. Is that my reference, and I should only pry it back enough for that to be centered? It won't take much to give me enough room for the allen socket in the back, but it certainly won't be centered.
Maybe I'm just not understanding what moves and what doesn't. If everything is clamped down, how does anything move?
TIA!
Now I know where the O2 sensor is.... I guess I never spotted that before.
Anyway, as you can see in the pic, the rear clamp is obviously more fwd that it should be. I could get the bolt out with a long allen socket, but unable to torque the new one to 66ftlbs due to flex in the long allen shaft required. It was in great shape and within .2mm in length of a new bolt. No red dust or evidence of damage anywhere. It was actually very clean back there.
Take a look how close the front #1 clamp is to those two bolts in the 2nd pic.
How far back should I pry the front clamp? I assume the access hole in the front is supposed to line up with the bolt in front clamp #2. So if I pry it to the rear enough to center the rear clamp in its access hole, that #2 front clamp may be out of line with its access hole.
As you can see in the pic, that #2 clamp isn't exactly centered in the access hole, but close. Is that my reference, and I should only pry it back enough for that to be centered? It won't take much to give me enough room for the allen socket in the back, but it certainly won't be centered.
Maybe I'm just not understanding what moves and what doesn't. If everything is clamped down, how does anything move?
TIA!
11-07-2015, 06:22 PM
#4
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Thread Starter
Thx, Ryan. I read through all those, great info, but never saw a good pic of how close the front clamp was to those bolts. Was yours as close as mine?
11-07-2015, 07:04 PM
#5
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For the driveshaft to pull.forward it would have to have something on the front to pull against....but the clutch short shaft is free floating. Undo the clamps and the drive shaft will slide in the bearings. Put the rear groove where it needs to be then adjust the front coupler.
11-07-2015, 07:10 PM
#6
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The location of the clamps is fine.
For torquing the pinch bolts you will need to make a tool: cut-down an Alan-bit socket so that it is exactly long-enough.
For torquing the pinch bolts you will need to make a tool: cut-down an Alan-bit socket so that it is exactly long-enough.
11-07-2015, 07:21 PM
#7
Team Owner
Hi George for your car i would remove the rear bolt then make sure the shaft is centered in the input of the trans, once this is done,
I made a tool for torquing the bolts
and I used a good allen wrench and cut off the L portion the section is about 2.5 inches long that fits into the allen socket.
OK so torque the bolt to 66 ft lbs add a drop of blue loctite to the bolt threads
Once this is done then work the front bolts first remove the rear front pinch bolt so the stub is still captured
now you can slide the stub all the way forward to bottom out in the pilot bearing
Once this is done move the coupler back about 3 mm and mark the stub shaft at the back of the guide tube,
now you know where the stub shaft has to be so it wont be bottomed out into the pilot bearing,
insert the rear front pinch again and torque it,
then remove the front pinch and inspect the bolt, set this bolt as well.
NOTE since you have a 5 speed you will want the 6 anchor bolts in the lower bell housing,
use anti seize on the header bolts to make removal easier next time
77Tony says Hi
I made a tool for torquing the bolts
and I used a good allen wrench and cut off the L portion the section is about 2.5 inches long that fits into the allen socket.
OK so torque the bolt to 66 ft lbs add a drop of blue loctite to the bolt threads
Once this is done then work the front bolts first remove the rear front pinch bolt so the stub is still captured
now you can slide the stub all the way forward to bottom out in the pilot bearing
Once this is done move the coupler back about 3 mm and mark the stub shaft at the back of the guide tube,
now you know where the stub shaft has to be so it wont be bottomed out into the pilot bearing,
insert the rear front pinch again and torque it,
then remove the front pinch and inspect the bolt, set this bolt as well.
NOTE since you have a 5 speed you will want the 6 anchor bolts in the lower bell housing,
use anti seize on the header bolts to make removal easier next time
77Tony says Hi
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11-07-2015, 07:24 PM
#8
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Thread Starter
Thx guys. I have the front part figured out, I.e the short shaft and how that floats with the front clamp loosened.
In the rear though, although I managed to swap the bolt and torque it down, it was a tight fit for the socket.
I don't see how the rear clamp can move rearward as discussed in previous threads to provide add'l clearance since the bolt slot in the tranny input shaft is fixed. Or maybe I just misunderstood.
In the rear though, although I managed to swap the bolt and torque it down, it was a tight fit for the socket.
I don't see how the rear clamp can move rearward as discussed in previous threads to provide add'l clearance since the bolt slot in the tranny input shaft is fixed. Or maybe I just misunderstood.
11-07-2015, 11:54 PM
#10
Former Vendor
Thx guys. I have the front part figured out, I.e the short shaft and how that floats with the front clamp loosened.
In the rear though, although I managed to swap the bolt and torque it down, it was a tight fit for the socket.
I don't see how the rear clamp can move rearward as discussed in previous threads to provide add'l clearance since the bolt slot in the tranny input shaft is fixed. Or maybe I just misunderstood.
In the rear though, although I managed to swap the bolt and torque it down, it was a tight fit for the socket.
I don't see how the rear clamp can move rearward as discussed in previous threads to provide add'l clearance since the bolt slot in the tranny input shaft is fixed. Or maybe I just misunderstood.
You do not have this problem.
Proceed with your bolt replacement/torquing.
11-08-2015, 06:02 PM
#12
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Any help would be great
11-08-2015, 06:32 PM
#13
Nordschleife Master
11-08-2015, 06:42 PM
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11-08-2015, 06:53 PM
#15
Nordschleife Master
As you can see in the above pics of the of the clamp, it is one piece. As it clamps the splined sleeve onto the splined shaft, how would you get that off without separating the tube from the sleeve.