i bought my 928 and have paid the pric for not heeding purchase advice
#31
Rennlist Member
#33
unless your clutch master is leaking out the rod seal you may get it to firm up again by exercising it a bit. this will be a good test of "your mechanic" if he changes it. BTW, no need to go cutting up fender well panels to do it. I changed mine. it's a matter of strategy.
#34
Rennlist Member
#35
I appreciate all the feedback.im impressed with the community here.i bought this car because I'm a Porsche -car addict like you all.i am not new to restoring cars.when I bought my 914 ,it too needed to be towed,engine out,etc etc.owned at least 5 Mercedes diesels ,worked on all of those.my 912 e was only purchase not requiring much.
So I have on list engine mounts,steering rack,wheel bearings,head gasket valves in the future,etc etc. brake master,clutch slave and master,axle boots and cam cover gaskets ,expansion tank and clutch fan will b done this week.hope I can enjoy for a while.
So I have on list engine mounts,steering rack,wheel bearings,head gasket valves in the future,etc etc. brake master,clutch slave and master,axle boots and cam cover gaskets ,expansion tank and clutch fan will b done this week.hope I can enjoy for a while.
#36
Chronic Tool Dropper
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
As you plan your strategy for each of those tasks, share what you have in mind and let the brain trust here help you. For each task there are some simple hints, warnings about common gotcha's, and undoubtedly a list of WYAIT's (while you are in there tasks) that will help keep you sane. The cam tower gaskets on your list, for instance, deserve Greg's improved gaskets so you only have to do that job once.
There's also a core goup who will soon advise you to pull the engine now for all that should be done to it. MUCH easier when the engine is out of the car, plus much easier to get to all the engine bay items that need cleaning plus some age-related attention. If you've been working on the cars you mentioned, and have the workshop manuals plus guidance from the experts here, you'll have few issues and surprises while bringing your 928 back to life.
Your car is coming up on 40 years old, and a lot of stuff has deteriorated in that time. My recommendation used to be to budget at least $5k just for the rubber bits that need attention solely due to age. It might take more these days, especially when you get into rebuilt suspension components. Get those done, and you can then expect at least 20 years before you need to do a wholesale change again. In the meanwhile, coolant hoses, belts, etc still get more frequent attention.
The original front lower balljoints were in aluminum carriers. Use a magnet to verify that they've been updated to steel. Before you even think of driving the car. It can be inconveient to have a front wheel fold under while driving. Most common scenario is a slow turn into a driveway apron, when the body stiffness causes a front suspension unload. So maybe the suggestion should be not to drive slowly, turn or stop anywhere before checking the carriers.
There's also a core goup who will soon advise you to pull the engine now for all that should be done to it. MUCH easier when the engine is out of the car, plus much easier to get to all the engine bay items that need cleaning plus some age-related attention. If you've been working on the cars you mentioned, and have the workshop manuals plus guidance from the experts here, you'll have few issues and surprises while bringing your 928 back to life.
Your car is coming up on 40 years old, and a lot of stuff has deteriorated in that time. My recommendation used to be to budget at least $5k just for the rubber bits that need attention solely due to age. It might take more these days, especially when you get into rebuilt suspension components. Get those done, and you can then expect at least 20 years before you need to do a wholesale change again. In the meanwhile, coolant hoses, belts, etc still get more frequent attention.
The original front lower balljoints were in aluminum carriers. Use a magnet to verify that they've been updated to steel. Before you even think of driving the car. It can be inconveient to have a front wheel fold under while driving. Most common scenario is a slow turn into a driveway apron, when the body stiffness causes a front suspension unload. So maybe the suggestion should be not to drive slowly, turn or stop anywhere before checking the carriers.
#37
Rennlist Member
I should link to this thread in the BaT auction postings for the trashed 928 that showed up this week. It's one of the worst ones I've seen in a years! And yet people are poking at it anyway. Stop the madness!!!
#38
Nordschleife Master
First off, welcome to the tank!
Please take heed on Dr Bob's statement regarding the lower balljoint. This must be checked and addressed.
I would strongly recommend as well that if your cam tower gaskets are leaking, you should do the headgaskets while you are in there. Also either contact Greg Brown, or Roger with 928srus and buy Greg's cam tower gaskets instead of the factory units, you will thank me for this.
I've seen more and more of the 16V gaskets failing, and a good portions of the failures being around the high pressure feed to the head, therefor causing an oil leak. So I would strongly recommend that you do it once, and do it right.
Pull the engine, redo the headgaskets, cam towers, and any other gaskets/seals as a while you're in there to properly enjoy the car.
Please take heed on Dr Bob's statement regarding the lower balljoint. This must be checked and addressed.
I would strongly recommend as well that if your cam tower gaskets are leaking, you should do the headgaskets while you are in there. Also either contact Greg Brown, or Roger with 928srus and buy Greg's cam tower gaskets instead of the factory units, you will thank me for this.
I've seen more and more of the 16V gaskets failing, and a good portions of the failures being around the high pressure feed to the head, therefor causing an oil leak. So I would strongly recommend that you do it once, and do it right.
Pull the engine, redo the headgaskets, cam towers, and any other gaskets/seals as a while you're in there to properly enjoy the car.
#41
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Site Sponsor
Congratulations on the adoption...
Some comments:
The fan clutch contains (or did contain) a thick silicone oil as the clutching medium. You can buy the oil at a Toyota dealership (for their pickup fan clutch) or at a large hobby shop (for RC suspension). I think that the instructions for filling are here, along with a lot of other info.
http://www.nichols.nu/tips.htm
The later cars have liquid-filled engine mounts that always fail. You car has solid rubber mounts that don't often fail - but the little shock absorber that is part of the system might have failed.
Using a zip-tie or some wire to wire the heater valve shut will help cool the interior. Make sure that the rubber seal on top of the firewall is still sealed against the bottom of the hood.
Go to the Nichols site, and read everything on there...
Some comments:
The fan clutch contains (or did contain) a thick silicone oil as the clutching medium. You can buy the oil at a Toyota dealership (for their pickup fan clutch) or at a large hobby shop (for RC suspension). I think that the instructions for filling are here, along with a lot of other info.
http://www.nichols.nu/tips.htm
The later cars have liquid-filled engine mounts that always fail. You car has solid rubber mounts that don't often fail - but the little shock absorber that is part of the system might have failed.
Using a zip-tie or some wire to wire the heater valve shut will help cool the interior. Make sure that the rubber seal on top of the firewall is still sealed against the bottom of the hood.
Go to the Nichols site, and read everything on there...
#43
Advanced
Same boat
I took my 79 out of service (April) to replace fuel lines etc. -- still down , but getting closer. My list grew - did the timing belt, water pump, new CSF rad, hoses - hoses- hoses, wires on & on & on, rubber bushes( this is just the engine) . Soon will be back-up and running . Will probably take it down again in the fall for brake/ suspension overhaul. When she runs it is a beautiful thing - up lifts the soul & pisses off new corvette owners Good luck brother
#45
Advanced
Come On Now
You've never blown passed an $80K vette - smiling @ 140mph. He could - but he won't- he's afraid he might not be able to ................ Sorry if your a Corvette owner.