My '83 - getting to the bottom of things
#1
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Before buying this car I used a powerful flashlight and mirror to look underneath, then crossed my fingers and wrote the check. Today, my son and I took it to an auto hobby shop, put it in the air, and carefully inspected everything. Zero rust, no damage, nothing broken, everything looked clean. Phew!
ISSUES
After finding a bit of visible wet (not nearly enough to drip) at the differential, on the torque converter cage, and above the starter, we used a hot-water (not high pressure) washer, plus a powerful detergent, to thoroughly clean absolutely everything. The car now looks as nice underneath as it does on top. In a few days we'll revisit those leaks to hopefully nail the sources, knowing that guidance is to be found here.
At the junction between the starter and its mounting point we observed what looked like extruded black fibrous tar - perhaps a deteriorated gasket or seal? Next time it's in the air we'll take photos and ask for help, but that might be enough for someone to recognize the problem even now.
The bushings look like rubber. Does anyone market urethane alternatives? Is there any reason to change what seems to be working well?
We found a hidden Whistler Spectrum radar detector receiver behind the grill, though we don't yet know what it's connected to. It looks like 1980s tech... Anyone want it?
I have a supply of zinc chromate and black epoxy. Is there any reason whatsoever to paint the suspension?
And the big one:
Is there any way to visually determine that a timing belt is aging?
Thanks!!
ISSUES
After finding a bit of visible wet (not nearly enough to drip) at the differential, on the torque converter cage, and above the starter, we used a hot-water (not high pressure) washer, plus a powerful detergent, to thoroughly clean absolutely everything. The car now looks as nice underneath as it does on top. In a few days we'll revisit those leaks to hopefully nail the sources, knowing that guidance is to be found here.
At the junction between the starter and its mounting point we observed what looked like extruded black fibrous tar - perhaps a deteriorated gasket or seal? Next time it's in the air we'll take photos and ask for help, but that might be enough for someone to recognize the problem even now.
The bushings look like rubber. Does anyone market urethane alternatives? Is there any reason to change what seems to be working well?
We found a hidden Whistler Spectrum radar detector receiver behind the grill, though we don't yet know what it's connected to. It looks like 1980s tech... Anyone want it?
I have a supply of zinc chromate and black epoxy. Is there any reason whatsoever to paint the suspension?
And the big one:
Is there any way to visually determine that a timing belt is aging?
Thanks!!
#2
Nordschleife Master
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If you remove the air intake tubes you can look down through the hole that is in the little duct of the timing belt covers on each side. The timing belt is right there. Look for grooves, fraying, splitting - if you see anything other than being perfect given that vantage point, it is time to replace.
#3
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I believe the passenger side timing belt cover will come off...after removing the air tube, the two bolts that hold it in place and with a bit of wiggling. It's tightly compacted in there, but it will come out. You will have a much better look, if you go through the bother of removing. Plus, you can see the condition of your timing gears, too.
You can also get the drivers side timing cover loose and swing it out of the way to have a look...but it will not come out entirely, since the banjo fitting on top of the power steering pump doesn't permit it to come out freely.
Yes, pictures of the black tar/gasket material would be helpful.
Brian.
You can also get the drivers side timing cover loose and swing it out of the way to have a look...but it will not come out entirely, since the banjo fitting on top of the power steering pump doesn't permit it to come out freely.
Yes, pictures of the black tar/gasket material would be helpful.
Brian.
#4
Team Owner
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it sounds like you have a unmolested car,
the tar at the starter is the original foam crevice stuffing,
its made to keep out dust, best to remove it.
If you can find more stuff some in there ,
otherwise I have never replaced this foam.
the tar at the starter is the original foam crevice stuffing,
its made to keep out dust, best to remove it.
If you can find more stuff some in there ,
otherwise I have never replaced this foam.
#5
Nordschleife Master
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You can pull an air intake tube and look through the hole to see the top of the belt.
You can undo the T/B cover and move it out of the way a bit to get a better look. AFAIK, you can't pull the covers off without draining the coolant and pulling radiator hoses.
You can see if the belt is going bad.
You really can't see if it's still good. It may be "on the edge" and still look good.
On the plus side, you have an 83. US 16 valves aren't interference motors. If the belt snaps, you are just stuck where it happens. You won't destroy valves.
You can undo the T/B cover and move it out of the way a bit to get a better look. AFAIK, you can't pull the covers off without draining the coolant and pulling radiator hoses.
You can see if the belt is going bad.
You really can't see if it's still good. It may be "on the edge" and still look good.
On the plus side, you have an 83. US 16 valves aren't interference motors. If the belt snaps, you are just stuck where it happens. You won't destroy valves.
#6
Chronic Tool Dropper
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Stan nailed the open-cell foam 'gasket' that sort of closes the gap there. You can use a strip of open-cell foam to replace the original, just cut a strip and glue it in place. It's there to keep crud from finding its way to the bell housing where it would foul the starter and starter drive. Open-cell is used so that any oil that might find its way in there (oil in the valley, cam seals or towers, rear main seal, etc. ) can find its way out. So regular weatherstripping foam isn't what you want.
#7
Nordschleife Master
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You can pull an air intake tube and look through the hole to see the top of the belt.
You can undo the T/B cover and move it out of the way a bit to get a better look. AFAIK, you can't pull the covers off without draining the coolant and pulling radiator hoses.
You can see if the belt is going bad.
You really can't see if it's still good. It may be "on the edge" and still look good.
On the plus side, you have an 83. US 16 valves aren't interference motors. If the belt snaps, you are just stuck where it happens. You won't destroy valves.
You can undo the T/B cover and move it out of the way a bit to get a better look. AFAIK, you can't pull the covers off without draining the coolant and pulling radiator hoses.
You can see if the belt is going bad.
You really can't see if it's still good. It may be "on the edge" and still look good.
On the plus side, you have an 83. US 16 valves aren't interference motors. If the belt snaps, you are just stuck where it happens. You won't destroy valves.
Some say you don't have to drain coolant to get R side cover off, but I always do when checking the belt tension.
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#8
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I just put one set of wheels on the curb, crawled under, et voila! It's just stuffing - not the car's pancreas leaking out. Easy to put right the next time it's on a lift.
Thanks, gurus.