ltoolio

Just removed the top hose going to the Oil Canister during a plenum removal and found a whitish goo at the return opening (pic below).

I did an oil change about a month ago and nothing seemed out of the ordinary.

My mind is going to a bad place on this (HG), but hoping someone can tell me this is normal, or at least not overly concerning, for the location.

Ducman82

you will get that normally. moisture ends up there. if the oil looks great, then nothing to worry about.

ltoolio

And similar goo in the hose connecting:

ltoolio

Thanks, Duc. I already had pictured the work of taking the engine out

Is it recommended to clean that area with any frequency?

Ducman82

na, it takes time to get that much build up. lots of short trips helps it collect. as the engine temp goes up and stays there, it will cook out.

GregBBRD

Considerably more than I've ever seen....

ltoolio

If you are referring to the pic from the top of the tube - it was compressed down with my finger, which made it look like it was blocking the x-section of the tube.

If you are referring in general, I'll continue to monitor unless there's a suggestion to investigate elsewhere.

NoVector

Curious how your oil looks on the dipstick and how it looks inside your coolant reservoir. If they look good, and it was my car, I’d take it for a long drive and cook out the moisture after the topend is back together. But if your oil on the dipstick looks like chocolate milk or you see oil in the coolant reservoir, that wouldn't be good. You may see that milky stuff at the top of the dipstick (okay--that didn't come out right), and that too could be okay and just be condensation.

ltoolio

Coolant in the reservoir is totally A-OK. All clear. (just checked)

I haven't driven the car since the oil change, but the old oil coming out of the OP looked normal relative to what I would expect.

VehiGAZ

Oh I disagree! That CAME out exactly as it should have!!!

ROTFLMAO...

potdog

Mineral oils are more prone to emulsifying in cold clime its with cool air passing over pipes and valve covers E.T.C. Some oils are worse than others.

dr bob

Moisture is a normal byproduct of combustion. When you take a lot of short trips the moisture condenses, mostly because the engine does not get thoroughly warmed up, and mosr specifically the oil does not get warm enough to boil off all that moisture that comes into the crankcase with everything cold. This is the primary reason that more frequent oil changes are recommended fpr folks who use the car primarily for short trips with no chance for the oil to heat up.

Recommendation: go drive the car under some load for at least half an hour of actual driving. That might take you an hour or more total, since sitting time isn't just ignored; It's subtracted from the driving time number.

For readers who store their cars in the off season, it's a good idea to go do that long drive under load to cook off the moisture in the oil. Then change the oil with fresh while he block is still warm, and don't restart it until hibernation is done and you are ready to drive it again. This boils out accumulated moisture, and gets fresh non moisture-laden oil into the crankcase for a relatively dry storage opportunity. The engine stays off during the storage period so everything inside stays relatively 'dry'. No corrsion, no acids formed with added combustion byproducts that make their way to the crankcase, etc.