1981 Ljet 5spd idle adjust screw question??
#31
Instructor
Thread Starter
hwyengr.. changing/testing one item at a time is the proper way to diagnose a problem.. any good mechanic will agree
j.kenzie.. i do hear a click from the idle switch but perhaps i should just replace it anyway.. im all out of ideas
today i swapped cap/rotor - no change
swapped distributor from parts car-no change
checked timing again- its fine
i also went and bought a new Temp II sensor just for the hell of it.. i tested the old one out of the car and got it down to the 270ohm range using a hair dryer..i installed the new tempII sensor anyways..still no change
my last resort before i give up and send the car to the specialist is to remove the O2 sensor and test it to make sure it is working properly.. ive been under the car and noticed the O2 and catalytic conv look like they have been replaced(they look newer) sooo i dont know.. perhaps the PO was chasing the same problem and replaced them? not sure... i am the 4th owner...
the mystery continuessssss.. ahhhhhhhhhhhhohduhoqdwbkdwqbddbkwqddwhdh qwdj9u98y380
j.kenzie.. i do hear a click from the idle switch but perhaps i should just replace it anyway.. im all out of ideas
today i swapped cap/rotor - no change
swapped distributor from parts car-no change
checked timing again- its fine
i also went and bought a new Temp II sensor just for the hell of it.. i tested the old one out of the car and got it down to the 270ohm range using a hair dryer..i installed the new tempII sensor anyways..still no change
my last resort before i give up and send the car to the specialist is to remove the O2 sensor and test it to make sure it is working properly.. ive been under the car and noticed the O2 and catalytic conv look like they have been replaced(they look newer) sooo i dont know.. perhaps the PO was chasing the same problem and replaced them? not sure... i am the 4th owner...
the mystery continuessssss.. ahhhhhhhhhhhhohduhoqdwbkdwqbddbkwqddwhdh qwdj9u98y380
#32
Rennlist Member
#33
Instructor
Thread Starter
j.kenzie......ok after reading your last post about the idle switch i went to re-test for continuity...
with the car off i do NOT get a reading on the voltameter from the idle switch...when i reach down and push the lever down with my finger the voltamater reads 3-4ohms.... when i let off it reads nothing... sooooooo now im suspecting that the position of the idle switch is NOT in proper working order... hmmmmmmmmmmmmmm
this could explain the rough idle and stalling BUT could this switch also be my running rich culprit?
thanks for reading!!
with the car off i do NOT get a reading on the voltameter from the idle switch...when i reach down and push the lever down with my finger the voltamater reads 3-4ohms.... when i let off it reads nothing... sooooooo now im suspecting that the position of the idle switch is NOT in proper working order... hmmmmmmmmmmmmmm
this could explain the rough idle and stalling BUT could this switch also be my running rich culprit?
thanks for reading!!
#34
Instructor
Thread Starter
hwyngr... i know your trying to help and i appreciate it BUT when diagnosing a problematic car like the 928 if you start swapping multiple parts out at once you are asking for trouble.. you can ask others the same question.. im almost certain that 1 at a time is the correct way...
#35
Rennlist Member
hwyngr... i know your trying to help and i appreciate it BUT when diagnosing a problematic car like the 928 if you start swapping multiple parts out at once you are asking for trouble.. you can ask others the same question.. im almost certain that 1 at a time is the correct way...
If you were 100% sure you only have 1 issue causing your problem, then yes, 1 at a time is the way to go. But as you say, 928s are problematic cars.
But, whatever. Do it your way. Best of luck to your specialist.
#36
Rennlist Member
j.kenzie......ok after reading your last post about the idle switch i went to re-test for continuity...
with the car off i do NOT get a reading on the voltameter from the idle switch...when i reach down and push the lever down with my finger the voltamater reads 3-4ohms.... when i let off it reads nothing... sooooooo now im suspecting that the position of the idle switch is NOT in proper working order... hmmmmmmmmmmmmmm
this could explain the rough idle and stalling BUT could this switch also be my running rich culprit?
thanks for reading!!
with the car off i do NOT get a reading on the voltameter from the idle switch...when i reach down and push the lever down with my finger the voltamater reads 3-4ohms.... when i let off it reads nothing... sooooooo now im suspecting that the position of the idle switch is NOT in proper working order... hmmmmmmmmmmmmmm
this could explain the rough idle and stalling BUT could this switch also be my running rich culprit?
thanks for reading!!
Just an idea.
Good luck,
Dave
#37
Instructor
Thread Starter
i figured with the throttle closed at idle the lower switch should read closer to 0 ohms... as it stands now.. i am not even getting a reading unless i manually push the lever on the switch down... the L-Jet is reading that the throttle switch is not engaged at idle which theoretically can cause a horrible idle and a rich fuel mixture... correct? i will tackle it tomorrow and see if it makes any difference.. im hoping it does!
thanks again!!
thanks again!!